HAMMER DOWN Posted December 29, 2016 Share Posted December 29, 2016 In my experience the average lifespan of a turbo EJ255/257 is 120k miles. Got to love exceeding the limits by almost 3x:wub: Mileage:331487 Retired/Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CapnJack Posted December 29, 2016 Share Posted December 29, 2016 "Reliability is inversely proportional to the movement of your right foot." (and your tune ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted December 29, 2016 Share Posted December 29, 2016 "Reliability is inversely proportional to the movement of your right foot." (and your tune )Â Needs to be a quote on a tshirt with a picture of a motor blown apart in a two car garage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nikitos05 Posted January 4, 2017 Share Posted January 4, 2017 (edited) First of all Happy New Year everyone! Second of all, I got couple questions for yall since Im nowhere near as educated on these matters as you seem to be..... So... I got a 2005 LGT MT with 110K original stock motor and turbo 3" TBE Cobb AI Cobb AP  Not installed yet: DW65 850cc side feeds Perrin TMIC GS EBCS Headers and Catless Uppipe Perrin Turbo Inlet  Im trying to figure out what turbo upgrade I should go with? I want more power then vf52 but I also don't want to blow up anything because I drive the car on the regular bases. Im leaning towards BNR 18G but I wanted to see what other turbo manufacturers and turbo sizes yall could recommend me. Edited January 4, 2017 by nikitos05 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HAMMER DOWN Posted January 4, 2017 Share Posted January 4, 2017 ^^^Just in case you didn't read this Sticky; http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/turboi-wiki-twist-178684.html Might help you make you turbo decision. Mileage:331487 Retired/Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated thefultonhow Posted January 6, 2017 I Donated Share Posted January 6, 2017 I want more power then vf52 but I also don't want to blow up anything because I drive the car on the regular bases. The more you do to a car, the more likely it is to blow up, especially at that kind of mileage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guzzimutt Posted January 9, 2017 Share Posted January 9, 2017 oh hell yeah Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted January 9, 2017 Share Posted January 9, 2017 The more you do to a car, the more likely it is to blow up, especially at that kind of mileage. For real. Just finished one rebuild and thinking about the next one already. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guzzimutt Posted January 10, 2017 Share Posted January 10, 2017 I'm on engine no 3-Â moar biggar turbos! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HAMMER DOWN Posted January 10, 2017 Share Posted January 10, 2017 ^^^ As long, as you can pay to play;) Mileage:331487 Retired/Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted January 12, 2017 Share Posted January 12, 2017 First of all Happy New Year everyone! Second of all, I got couple questions for yall since Im nowhere near as educated on these matters as you seem to be..... So... I got a 2005 LGT MT with 110K original stock motor and turbo 3" TBE Cobb AI Cobb AP  Not installed yet: DW65 850cc side feeds Perrin TMIC GS EBCS Headers and Catless Uppipe Perrin Turbo Inlet  Im trying to figure out what turbo upgrade I should go with? I want more power then vf52 but I also don't want to blow up anything because I drive the car on the regular bases. Im leaning towards BNR 18G but I wanted to see what other turbo manufacturers and turbo sizes yall could recommend me. Talk with Mike Kinsman of http://www.tuningalliance.com before you spend your money. He's the one tuner you want tuning your car. He can get you all the parts and turbo you need He really is that great. Tell him I sent you.  Max 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it.  Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guzzimutt Posted January 13, 2017 Share Posted January 13, 2017 thats a great point I've suffered through my own mistakes- having a guy like Mike here in Chicago would have been super helpful Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guzzimutt Posted January 13, 2017 Share Posted January 13, 2017 thats a great point I've suffered through my own mistakes- having a guy like Mike here in Chicago would have been super helpful Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1stTurboSubi05 Posted February 15, 2017 Share Posted February 15, 2017 I read some posts that there has been oil consumption when replacing the turbo, can anyone weigh in about that? I have that issue. The problem was 6 dollar fix, it was the oil filler tube "o" ring. It had a crack and with increased crankcase pressure It vents atomized oil out. Look where the tube and block comes together, if there's an oil film there I'd replace the "o" ring. Hope this helps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HellShadow70 Posted February 20, 2017 Share Posted February 20, 2017 (edited) Update, So Fare so Good. After flushing the engine with 20 Quarts of oil, Cleaning the oil cooler, Changing the oil pan, changing the oil feed line to the Oil filter sandwich plate and getting a 40 micron filter for the ipt oil kit i have no issues. just installed a G/S TMIC in December no tune yet (soon) on the first turbo i didn't hear any spooling noise but know it sounds like a plane is about to take off. you live and learn, next up fuel pump and injectors and I'm done. Edited February 20, 2017 by HellShadow70 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
utc_pyro Posted February 26, 2017 Share Posted February 26, 2017 (edited) Does anyone know what "style" wastegate actuator the "V3" BNR turbos uses? Ether just the actuator and rod with a matching bend profile or including the bracket?  I want to change to a 0.8 bar actuator with more throw to smooth out part throttle response and to have more adjustability in the peek effency range. I'm getting over 15psi at just wastegate boost and a 3psi delta between target and minimum isn't enough. Taking one turn out of the preload allowed it to crack open slightly earlier, but didn't reduce the peak. I've reached out to Brian via a few different medium without success. Edit: to the best that I can tell it appears he kept the stock VF40 geometry. It's amazing that he can change the prices that he does. The compressor and turbin housings are totally reengineered peaces that mirror the stock system closely for an odd ball low production application. Edited February 28, 2017 by utc_pyro Went out and looked at the turbo sitting in my car and compared it to pictures from my old turbo and ones online of other tur Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigTDogg MA Posted September 12, 2017 Share Posted September 12, 2017 So my VF52 is on it's way out. I need a turbo soon, as I'm tuning on 10/11. BNRs seem like a good option. I want to keep my UP and DP, I'm on a DW65c with stock injectors on parallel feed AP rails. Grimmspeed TMIC. Looking for around 300WHP/350WTQ, 93 octane fuel. I'm thinking a 16g should be plenty, or would I need to go to an 18g? Any other options available? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hadvw Posted September 12, 2017 Share Posted September 12, 2017 I don't think you can do 400 chp (300 whp) with stock injectors.. Even with 650s and bnr16g, I hit 225 whp (stock gutted pipes/tmic) back in 2010.. up from ~160 whp stock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigTDogg MA Posted September 12, 2017 Share Posted September 12, 2017 I don't think you can do 400 chp (300 whp) with stock injectors.. Even with 650s and bnr16g, I hit 225 whp (stock gutted pipes/tmic) back in 2010.. up from ~160 whp stock. I'm not gonna be pissed if I don't hit 300, I just want a good, safe tune. Last time around she it 271WHP with a VF52 and a less-than-ideal clutch. Tuner thought the setup was good for more, but the clutch hated me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guzzimutt Posted September 12, 2017 Share Posted September 12, 2017 lean conditions crack cylinder walls- make sure you have enough fuel pushed into the system Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pic1 Posted September 12, 2017 Share Posted September 12, 2017 (edited) Everything Iv'e read on these forums and elsewhere says we're not going to get much above lower 300's chp without fuel mods. I too wanted 300whp too With that said ... I have (or had): 2005 LGT 5MT rebuilt engine in 2014 (New STI Short block) heads redone Assume factory stock parts and position except these mods Perrin rubber inlet hose BNR 16G Avo TMI Catless up pipe (Not sure of brand) Xtreme? Cobb catted down pipe Magnaflow cat back exhaust Car tuned at TIC by Dominic in Mar or May of 2015 Ran out of fuel. 100% injector duty cycle. Dominic said it felt like it could go more but needed fuel mods. I asked him to turn it down to 90% duty cycle and I'll live with it until I'm ready for the fuel mods. Result was ~236whp. He recommended larger injectors and higher flow fuel pump. It then became an argument between top feed or deatschwerks. Something for another thread. The following Friday, I weighed the car with me in it at a local scrap yard on my way to the drag strip. Did several runs until I had them consistent and wasn't getting any faster. Then did the math for HP number. Dyno's aren't calibrated for accuracy like a truck scale is so I wanted to double check The math said ~260whp. Assuming ~21% (17-25) loss thru the drive train; that would put it at ~320chp. So, seems what I've read and is posted in these forums is quite plausible. Keep in mind these are not definitive perfect numbers but just observed data with a few assumptions on the final math. it's not an argument for or against anything. So, poopoo what i've said or take it for what it is and do what you think you need to do to achieve your goals. I have the parts to make the needed fuel changes and the plan was to go to an 18g if the fuel changes didn't measure up. But, car was totaled Aug2017 when I rear ended a ford expedition with a @#$%^ receiver hitch. Another story for another thread. Hope this helps. Edited September 12, 2017 by Pic1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigTDogg MA Posted September 12, 2017 Share Posted September 12, 2017 So this is my current build: Apexi dry filter Grimmspeed TMIC VF52 DW65C pump OEM injectors on Agency Power fuel rails STI crank King bearings Manley 99.75 pistons Manley H-Tuff rods STI cams Brian Crower Intake valve set Brian Crower SS exhaust valve set ARP head studs Brian Crower valve springs and retainers Killer B Oil Baffle Killer B Oil Pickup Cometic Subaru EJ25 100mm Bore .030" Head Gasket STI 11mm Oil Pump Perrin Headers Grimmspeed UP Cobb catted DP Borla exhaust  Want to swap out the turbo with something else. Another 52 or something better. Not going bigger on fuel. My previous dyno below:  Only difference between this engine and the one dynoed there is that engine had OEM rods and Wiesco drop-ins, and OEM cams. I figure the BNR EVO3 16g is perfect, and may even fatten up my power and torque curves. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hadvw Posted September 12, 2017 Share Posted September 12, 2017 Based on this: http://www.deatschwerks.com/fuel-calculators/fuel-injector-calculator With a 90% duty cycle, 375 chp is about the most you can get - it ends up being 547 CC injectors, and IIRC, stock is 550. Using 25% drivetrain losses, that's 281 whp.  And of course, dynos can be calibrated differently. That 300 whp above could be another dyno's 260 whp. Without a baseline run, it's hard to know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigTDogg MA Posted September 12, 2017 Share Posted September 12, 2017 My power was 271, torque was 299. Mustang dynos read differently and everything so yeah, it was a ball park number. Stocks are 550cc/min Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hadvw Posted September 12, 2017 Share Posted September 12, 2017 My power was 271, torque was 299. Mustang dynos read differently and everything so yeah, it was a ball park number. Stocks are 550cc/min Sorry, my bad - reading too quickly :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now