Jeffer Posted May 4, 2014 Share Posted May 4, 2014 When going with Speed Density, do you really need to change the MAP sensor ? Some say yes others say no I need a tuner answer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrenTuning Posted May 5, 2014 Author Share Posted May 5, 2014 When going with Speed Density, do you really need to change the MAP sensor ? Some say yes others say no I need a tuner answer We like to see a 3 bar MAP sensor at minimum. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rcruz17 Posted June 18, 2014 Share Posted June 18, 2014 Im thinking of doing a reliable/safe tune on my 05 lgt with 151k its a daily driver and I know miles are high. Right now im working on getting a P0303 sorted out but before I go in for a tune what should I upgrade or change with reliability and a bit more performance in mind? thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrenTuning Posted June 18, 2014 Author Share Posted June 18, 2014 Im thinking of doing a reliable/safe tune on my 05 lgt with 151k its a daily driver and I know miles are high. Right now im working on getting a P0303 sorted out but before I go in for a tune what should I upgrade or change with reliability and a bit more performance in mind? thanks. Since your profile lists that you have an 05 getting rid of the catted uppipe will be one of the biggest reliability mods you can do. Other things to do, keep up with frequent oil changes, using quality oil no mobil 1. Quality gas. Remove the banjo filters in the turbo oil feed line. As for your cyl 3 misfire. I'd start with fresh plugs. If that doesn't work try swapping coil packs see if it follows, replace as necessary. If it is still there try swapping injectors around, replace as necessary. Doing a compression test while the plugs are out isn't a bad idea either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rcruz17 Posted June 18, 2014 Share Posted June 18, 2014 Since your profile lists that you have an 05 getting rid of the catted uppipe will be one of the biggest reliability mods you can do. Other things to do, keep up with frequent oil changes, using quality oil no mobil 1. Quality gas. Remove the banjo filters in the turbo oil feed line. As for your cyl 3 misfire. I'd start with fresh plugs. If that doesn't work try swapping coil packs see if it follows, replace as necessary. If it is still there try swapping injectors around, replace as necessary. Doing a compression test while the plugs are out isn't a bad idea either. I usually do valvoline full synthetic and Purolator classic filters right from walmart. Im keeping an eye out for an uppipe and and a catted downpipe. I saw the thread about banjo filters but didnt look quiet so easy to do might hold off until I actually do uppipe and have more space on that area to work with. should I upgrade oil line? the VF40 seems to be my weakest link.... as far as the misfire I just posted it in the misfire thread http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4851789&postcount=479 thanks for your input looks like im headed in the right direction Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrenTuning Posted June 19, 2014 Author Share Posted June 19, 2014 Stock oil line will be fine for the common OEM turbos. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeffer Posted June 30, 2014 Share Posted June 30, 2014 Hey With appropriate tune, Is there any benefits to upgrade top mount, injector, fuel pump on a stage 2 06 LGT with "stock turbo" ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrenTuning Posted June 30, 2014 Author Share Posted June 30, 2014 Hey With appropriate tune, Is there any benefits to upgrade top mount, injector, fuel pump on a stage 2 06 LGT with "stock turbo" ? Fuel pump and intercooler, yes those help. The fuel pump I would file more under maintenance as the stock ones get tired. The stock TMIC's do not flow good at all. With a the tiny stock turbo you will never max out the stock injectors unless you are running E85 through them. At that point I would do the injectors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeffer Posted July 5, 2014 Share Posted July 5, 2014 Fuel pump and intercooler, yes those help. The fuel pump I would file more under maintenance as the stock ones get tired. The stock TMIC's do not flow good at all. With a the tiny stock turbo you will never max out the stock injectors unless you are running E85 through them. At that point I would do the injectors. Great! Thanks for the infos So I installed my new Perrin top mount last week (stock was leaking...) and I'm waiting for my DW65c fuel pump that is going to be shipped Monday (as you said my stock one is tired ) Will keep my stock injector and turbo... For now... So I think I would be ready for an eTune after pump installation just to be sure that my car runs closer to maximum capacity than just with basic stage 2 map Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shiby Posted July 6, 2014 Share Posted July 6, 2014 didn't want to just copy and paste my entire long post but if you check this thread i opened under tuning category http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/badi-224362.html what do you think? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nightmaresmk Posted July 7, 2014 Share Posted July 7, 2014 Couple questions. 1. Just picked up an Agency power ELH is this safe to run on my road tune or do i need to get the tune adjusted right after. Just hard since ia m 2 hours away. 2. I have dw65 and am switching to top feeds are STI 565cc injectors a step up or should i just spend the money on a set of ID1000's (cheapest and plentiful to get) 3. Kinugawa TD06sl2-20g 8cm 11blade to big? I can get one for under $500. 4. Can you adjust the Speedo for smaller tires? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrenTuning Posted July 7, 2014 Author Share Posted July 7, 2014 didn't want to just copy and paste my entire long post but if you check this thread i opened under tuning category http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/badi-224362.html what do you think? I'd recommend getting a compression test done. Some times a low load knock like that can be a sign of a failed ringland. Couple questions. 1. Just picked up an Agency power ELH is this safe to run on my road tune or do i need to get the tune adjusted right after. Just hard since ia m 2 hours away. 2. I have dw65 and am switching to top feeds are STI 565cc injectors a step up or should i just spend the money on a set of ID1000's (cheapest and plentiful to get) 3. Kinugawa TD06sl2-20g 8cm 11blade to big? I can get one for under $500. 4. Can you adjust the Speedo for smaller tires? 1) The car will be fine. The tune will actually be "safer" as with an ELH the car can safely take more timing. 2) Go with the ID1000's. There's no benefit in going to a stock STI topfeed. 3) We can set the boost up a little more conservative to prolong life of the stock motor. 4) Sorry, we have no access to that. Great! Thanks for the infos So I installed my new Perrin top mount last week (stock was leaking...) and I'm waiting for my DW65c fuel pump that is going to be shipped Monday (as you said my stock one is tired ) Will keep my stock injector and turbo... For now... So I think I would be ready for an eTune after pump installation just to be sure that my car runs closer to maximum capacity than just with basic stage 2 map Sounds good, let us know if we can assist on getting you tuned Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris GTO TT Posted July 7, 2014 Share Posted July 7, 2014 Question regarding the 5EAT cars, is it normal for them to build boost a lot slower than a manual car? I pulled a couple of logs yesterday in my girlfriends LGT wagon yesterday and was very surprised to see it not come to full boost till after 4500rpm 2003 Baja 5MT 2016 Outback 2.5i Premium w/Eyesight Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shiby Posted July 7, 2014 Share Posted July 7, 2014 I'd recommend getting a compression test done. Some times a low load knock like that can be a sign of a failed ringland. a compression test was done by local dealer, on cylinder 2 that was misfiring at the time and they came to result that compression is good should i get compression test done on all cylinders now you mean? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz517 Posted July 7, 2014 Share Posted July 7, 2014 I know that if you get a tune when it is say 20 degrees that you MAY noticed some pulled timing on a 90 degree day with high humidity. However, if you get tuned on a 90 degree day with high humidity, would the cold negatively affect the tune? Thanks! I started a thread about this elsewhere, but someone suggested posting here. I am getting tuned Wednesday and it is supposed to be mid 80s and humid, so I was a bit concerned how it would be effected in winter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrenTuning Posted July 9, 2014 Author Share Posted July 9, 2014 Question regarding the 5EAT cars, is it normal for them to build boost a lot slower than a manual car? I pulled a couple of logs yesterday in my girlfriends LGT wagon yesterday and was very surprised to see it not come to full boost till after 4500rpm The torque convertor is lazy to lock up on 5eat's. So yes, boost comes on later than a manual car. a compression test was done by local dealer, on cylinder 2 that was misfiring at the time and they came to result that compression is good should i get compression test done on all cylinders now you mean? I like seeing all 4 done at the same time. That way you can see if one is much different than the rest. Without having the car here in person it's going to be extremely difficult to diagnose over the internet. I know that if you get a tune when it is say 20 degrees that you MAY noticed some pulled timing on a 90 degree day with high humidity. However, if you get tuned on a 90 degree day with high humidity, would the cold negatively affect the tune? Thanks! I started a thread about this elsewhere, but someone suggested posting here. I am getting tuned Wednesday and it is supposed to be mid 80s and humid, so I was a bit concerned how it would be effected in winter If the tuner properly modifies the tables I wouldn't worry about it, in either case. That being said there is the occasional car that needs the WGDC dialed back when it's cold out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
covertrussian Posted July 10, 2014 Share Posted July 10, 2014 I'd recommend getting a compression test done. Some times a low load knock like that can be a sign of a failed ringland. Would this be related to knock count jumping up from free reving the motor while standing still? 05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD) 12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct 00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg 22 Ascent STOCK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrenTuning Posted July 11, 2014 Author Share Posted July 11, 2014 No, not at all. You will see that on all of the EJ motors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
covertrussian Posted July 11, 2014 Share Posted July 11, 2014 Oh whew, I was getting worried that it was related to stg2 downpipe. Any reason why a freer flowing downpipe would be knocking more down low then stock restrictive one, even after WGC tables were tinkered down? I am running 20* AVCS advance in @2200 range, but still would think that freer flowing DP would take more kindly to more AVCS. http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/Exhaust/Downpipe/0620_DP_WG-10_330milesCity-Highway.jpg~original Since this graph I have turned the AVCS down to 15* (stockish amount), but still seeing some low load knock. Best guess is it's hitting full boost earlier, but not that much earlier when I was 100% stock. 05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD) 12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct 00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg 22 Ascent STOCK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrenTuning Posted July 13, 2014 Author Share Posted July 13, 2014 One rule of the tuner thread, is we do not teach self tuning Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
covertrussian Posted July 14, 2014 Share Posted July 14, 2014 Roger that, thanks! 05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD) 12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct 00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg 22 Ascent STOCK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ad-dam Posted July 18, 2014 Share Posted July 18, 2014 when do forged pistons become necessary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrenTuning Posted July 18, 2014 Author Share Posted July 18, 2014 when do forged pistons become necessary The closer you reach to 400whp the more you'll need them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shiby Posted July 18, 2014 Share Posted July 18, 2014 from this learning view, does it seem to be normal (running on stock map) has avo panel filter and stock intake, or indicative of a leak somewhere? http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4876471&postcount=14 thanks in advance Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ad-dam Posted July 19, 2014 Share Posted July 19, 2014 The closer you reach to 400whp the more you'll need them. Well since diamond pistons are so close I've been looking into billet pistons . Im looking to get up into the 500to 550 range . I also have a 5eat any sugestions on beef ups for it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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