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Ask the Tuner Thread!


BrenTuning

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I want to replace my VF-40 before it barfs into my engine. I also want my car to be reliable, so I don't want to go for injectors, upgraded fuel pump, etc any time soon. I plan on getting a Stage 1 level tune once I replace the turbo. I'm just looking for a nice DD setup.

 

Only mods right now are tint and Jazzy-mod. Car has 128k, and just recently had headgaskets repaired, pistons cleaned, new piston rings, lapped valves/new valve cover gaskets. Clutch probably has less than 15k on it.

 

I'm thinking about a BNR-16G, catless uppipe, IP&T Oil lines and a Killer B oil pickup. And, of course, some kind of tune...leaning towards an Accessport e-tune.

 

Any other parts I should put on the shopping list? I know everybody and their mother does a high flow downpipe, but I figure if I don't do that yet, I won't be tempted with stage 2 levels of boost. Any downside (except leaving power on the table) to not going with an upgraded downpipe?

 

Planning on having the parts installed at IAG or Agile Auto, if that makes any difference.

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I want to replace my VF-40 before it barfs into my engine. I also want my car to be reliable, so I don't want to go for injectors, upgraded fuel pump, etc any time soon. I plan on getting a Stage 1 level tune once I replace the turbo. I'm just looking for a nice DD setup.

 

Only mods right now are tint and Jazzy-mod. Car has 128k, and just recently had headgaskets repaired, pistons cleaned, new piston rings, lapped valves/new valve cover gaskets. Clutch probably has less than 15k on it.

 

I'm thinking about a BNR-16G, catless uppipe, IP&T Oil lines and a Killer B oil pickup. And, of course, some kind of tune...leaning towards an Accessport e-tune.

 

Any other parts I should put on the shopping list? I know everybody and their mother does a high flow downpipe, but I figure if I don't do that yet, I won't be tempted with stage 2 levels of boost. Any downside (except leaving power on the table) to not going with an upgraded downpipe?

 

Planning on having the parts installed at IAG or Agile Auto, if that makes any difference.

 

A BNR16g or VF52 would be what you are looking for.

 

A downpipe will definitely open it up. But your list seems fine for what you are asking.

 

We've done a handful with a similar setup for customers who were just looking to have a more reliable car and weren't necessarily looking for a lot more performance.

 

Let us know if you decide on an e-tune, we would be more than happy to get your car running safely.

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Is it possible to get an E-Tune for 100% E85 using stock turbo, stock injectors, stock fuel pump, stock TMIC?

 

08 LGT Spec.B

 

Current mods:

Stage 1 Cobb AP, OTS 93 octane map.

BP TMIC (re-inforced stock)

SPT v2 Cat-back

SPT intake

 

Next mod:

Stage 2 (E-85 Tune)

CNT Catted DP

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Is it possible to get an E-Tune for 100% E85 using stock turbo, stock injectors, stock fuel pump, stock TMIC?

 

08 LGT Spec.B

 

Current mods:

Stage 1 Cobb AP, OTS 93 octane map.

BP TMIC (re-inforced stock)

SPT v2 Cat-back

SPT intake

 

Next mod:

Stage 2 (E-85 Tune)

CNT Catted DP

 

 

We can do that, if you were to upgrade the fueling. The stock components are not strong enough.

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SCASEYs is having my guy install his KillerBee equal length headers tomorrow. I know you guys tuned his car... will he need a re-tune after the install? I'm only asking because i was considering the same thing. My only concern (trivial i know) is the rumors that i've heard considering the sound difference with headers ion a flat four. Will it actually take away the rumble and make it sound like sh!t?

 

If you've already discussed this topic before, i apologize for beating a dead horse.

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SCASEYs is having my guy install his KillerBee equal length headers tomorrow. I know you guys tuned his car... will he need a re-tune after the install? I'm only asking because i was considering the same thing. My only concern (trivial i know) is the rumors that i've heard considering the sound difference with headers ion a flat four. Will it actually take away the rumble and make it sound like sh!t?

 

If you've already discussed this topic before, i apologize for beating a dead horse.

 

 

A re-tune is recommended.

 

Yes ELH's get rid of the UEL rumble. Sound is subjective. Some like it some don't.

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I have an access port and a an OTS tune right now untill i can bump to stage two and get a tune from u we talked about. Problem is my ots tune is for 16lbs and i'm registering 16.5-17.8lbs of boost how would i turn the boost down to match the tune for now. i don't want to worry about knock.
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I'd like to see if this could be done to my car when I come in for my stage 3 tune in the upcoming few weeks. It seems as though it's a general attribute on subaru maps to keep the gas mileage display correct.

 

You may need some calibration data from the car, but that could be obtained over a tank of gas easily.

 

http://www.romraider.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=34&t=9530

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I'd like to see if this could be done to my car when I come in for my stage 3 tune in the upcoming few weeks. It seems as though it's a general attribute on subaru maps to keep the gas mileage display correct.

 

You may need some calibration data from the car, but that could be obtained over a tank of gas easily.

 

http://www.romraider.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=34&t=9530

 

 

Finding the correction value is very simple if you leave it up to the owner:

 

An alternate method to determine the correction which may work better for people using high Ethanol fuel blends is to calculate your fuel consumption in the traditional manner. Which is to reset the trip meter, fill the tank and drive until at least half a tank of fuel is consumed, refill the tank and calculate your consumption over that distance. Then compare this to the Driver Information Panel Average Fuel Efficiency value. Calculate the correction as follows:

Fuel Efficiency Calculated / Info Panel Average Fuel Efficiency = correction

 

It looks like all you do is place this correction value in the fueling category:

 

With this correction value in hand you can apply it to the 'EXPERIMENTAL Info Panel Fuel Efficiency Correction' in the 'Fueling - Injectors' category as defined by the following definition update.

 

To apply this update to your ROM, search for your CAL ID in the RomRaider ECU definition XML file using a text editor. If you find your CAL ID inherits from a previous CAL ID then apply this update to the inherited CAL ID. Once you locate the CAL ID, scan down the definition until you locate the table entry for name="Injector Flow Scaling". After this line insert the following code:

 

Code:

 

<table type="2D" name="EXPERIMENTAL Info Panel Fuel Consumption Correction" category="Fueling - Injectors" storagetype="float" endian="big" sizey="1" userlevel="2" storageaddress="0x#####">

<scaling units="ESTIMATED Fuel Efficiency Correction" expression="x" to_byte="x" format="0.000" fineincrement=".1" coarseincrement="1" />

<table type="Static Y Axis" name="" sizey="1">

<data>Fuel Efficiency Correction</data>

</table>

<description>This is the correction applied to the fuel efficiency calculation to account for injector size change. Adjust this value by the same percentage as used for injector scaling. NewCorrection = CurrentCorrection * (NewInjectorScale / OldInjectorScale)</description>

</table>

 

Once you have inserted the code change the value of the parameter storageaddress="0x#####" and replace the ##### with the address value defined for your CAL ID. Save the XML file.

 

Open your modified ROM and open the table 'EXPERIMENTAL Info Panel Fuel Efficiency Correction' in the 'Fueling - Injectors' category. Select the current value and enter the correction you calculated in the table modify field. Click the 'Mul' button.

Attachment:

http://www.romraider.com/forum/download/file.php?id=19674

correction_applied.png [ 7.71 KiB | Viewed 995 times ]

 

Save the ROM and flash the update to the ECU.

This initial correction should get the readings closer to reality. Adjust the 'EXPERIMENTAL Info Panel Fuel Efficiency Correction' as required to obtain the best realistic result after a few tanks of fuel.

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It's very easy to find in your ROM. However, dependig on how the inectors/MAF were scaled, it can be tough multiplying it by the correct value.

 

It's solely based on injector pulse width. Finding the multiplier is simple... You compare actual MPG to the false MPG displayed on the dash. That's your multiplier.

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Draining a tank?

 

Full it up till it stops, set odometer trip, drive the whole tank, at least half, fill back up...

 

MPG = odometer / gallons filled

 

 

But yes... Modify percentage would then be:

 

 

MPG CORRECT = dash reading / actual mpg

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