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Primitive Racing Skid Plate!


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So can someone tell me, with the original undertray removed, 3/16" skid plate, how much more clearance do you lose? And does removing turbo heat shield prevent additional noises? Thx

 

I've got the 1/8" skid-plate and haven't measured the loss in clearance yet. But eyeballing the spacers that are welded onto the plate, I'd guess you lose about another 3/4"-1" additional clearance. I'm lowered on RCE blacks and haven't noticed too many issues clearing things.

 

I did remove the turbo heat-shield and do not have any noise issues. The way I see it, if something hits the skid-plate hard enough to break it, the heat shield wont do anything. Also, I think the heat-shield is there to prevent the turbo from melting the OEM plastic skid-plate, which won't be an issue if you go with the primitive skid-plate.

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I seem to remember that Swannee (lowered on H&R with Koni's) would scrape his Primitive skid plate on dips and bumps on twisty roads when he was pushing hard and if I remember correctly he had the Primitive extend the standoffs by 1/2" or so to give him extra clearance for his plans for the Nameless DP, because he just didn't know if the skid plate would clear. I think he shaved the standoffs and never had a problem after that.
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And does removing turbo heat shield prevent additional noises? Thx

 

Yes. FWIW, I had undesirable engine vibration/noise when my primitive plate contacted my turbo oil pan w/o the turbo heat shield. I suspect that if you tightened the primitive plate up, it will push the turbo heat shield into contact with the turbo.

 

I beleive Primitive designed their skid plate for use w/o the turbo heat shield. In other words, I'm pretty sure you are supposed to take it off. I'm generally an instruction follower.

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Thx for the input guys, so just remove the turbo heat shield and install and there should be no problems right?

 

Question 1: Why 1/8 and not 3/16? Seems like 1/8" is likely to bend based on what I've read in the earlier post, is there a significant weight difference?

 

Question 2: Did you guys all get the oil filter/plug cutout?

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Thx for the input guys, so just remove the turbo heat shield and install and there should be no problems right?

 

Question 1: Why 1/8 and not 3/16? Seems like 1/8" is likely to bend based on what I've read in the earlier post, is there a significant weight difference?

 

Question 2: Did you guys all get the oil filter/plug cutout?

 

I figured aluminum is still stronger than the OEM plastic tray and its 1/16" less thick. And I did not get the cutouts because the skidplate is pretty easy to remove and reinstall.

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Thx for the input guys, so just remove the turbo heat shield and install and there should be no problems right?

 

Question 1: Why 1/8 and not 3/16? Seems like 1/8" is likely to bend based on what I've read in the earlier post, is there a significant weight difference?

 

Question 2: Did you guys all get the oil filter/plug cutout?

 

I figured aluminum is still stronger than the OEM plastic tray and its 1/16" less thick. And I did not get the cutouts because the skidplate is pretty easy to remove and reinstall.

 

I have a 3/16" plate.

 

Thanks guys, if anyone wanna add their input it would be nice. I think I'm leaning towards 3/16 with cutouts for maintenance. Only remove undertray and turbo heatshield.

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Thanks guys, if anyone wanna add their input it would be nice. I think I'm leaning towards 3/16 with cutouts for maintenance. Only remove undertray and turbo heatshield.

 

1/8" is plenty thick unless you literally plan to go get some air in a rally, the only damage mine has is from when some jack wagon tried to pull my car up onto a tow truck by it. when i order mine primitive steered me away from the oil change hole.

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Thx for the input guys, so just remove the turbo heat shield and install and there should be no problems right?

 

Right.

 

 

Question 1: Why 1/8 and not 3/16?

 

I went with the 1/8 because it was cheaper.

 

Question 2: Did you guys all get the oil filter/plug cutout?

 

No. Those are two areas I wanted protected the most.

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I have the 3/16 with the cutouts w/fumoto valve. I've had it for about 3 years with 0 issues in NYC streets. The only thing I really dislike is the ground clearance (bilstein/rce blacks/stock wheels). It doesn't take much to scrape. This is with the plastic under tray to try to keep some salt out.

 

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

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Soooo.... as one of early birds with this - the plate was designed without the heat shield. One of the guys at Primitive had a '10LGT which they used as the model and he did not have the shield.

 

I originally got the cutouts - DP, oil drain, and filter. I found that removing the plate was actually pretty simple from the beginning so I ended up not using the cut outs....until the last two oil changes! managed to do it without removal (fumoto valve and the Red Solo cup trick keeps it easy)

 

Yes you lose about an inch off your lowest point (turbo heat shield) plus thickness of the plate.

 

I used fender washers and SS washers to buffer the metal/metal contact with my frame and skid plate - no sound.

 

I've decapitated a squirrel via the filter hole when I tried to straddle the poor animal...

 

It does wreck the contact points for your side undertray fender plastic - Ive had to cut mine and zip tie a few pieces to hold it together.

 

But I LOVE it. Just takes one "bang" to make you know its worth it. Our balls hang low and i'm quite protective of it.

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1/8" is enough for any DD in my opinion, its not a weak plate and would take some serious abuse to damage. I'd say the thicker plate would be for heavy duty applications.

 

No access holes for me either. Not hard to remove, and better protection/integrity.

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I went with the 1/8 because it was cheaper.

 

i wen't with the 1/8" because it hurts 2/3 as much when you drop it on your face...... but seriously if it was another 50% heavier it would be a bitch to install while laying on your back

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I went with the 3/16" plate, since with group buy pricing, it was the same as the 1/8" plate at standard pricing. Bring a standard American consumer, getting 50% more for the same price, even if I don't need it, was very appealing.

 

Also, I was already planning on grabbing one before the GB happened, and the only thing holding me back from the 3/16" was the question of whether or not the extra thickness was worth the extra dollars, so I was pretty much sold on it already.

 

Granted, this is also sitting in the back of the garage, so I can't exactly claim to have anything to add as far as durability endorsements or clearance measurements.

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Ok, sounds like I'll be going with 1/8" no cut out then. The roads here in OC/SoCal are pretty nice, so don't think I'll need the extra thickness.

 

I don't quite understand one thing, some of you actually kept the original undertray on top of the skid plate? Is there a purpose for that?

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I don't quite understand one thing, some of you actually kept the original undertray on top of the skid plate? Is there a purpose for that?

 

I think for some of the guys in the salt belt, its in an effort to keep things from rusting. You should be perfectly fine in SoCal with just the skidplate and you can basically toss the OEM plastic tray unless you plan to go back to stock in the future

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Ok, sounds like I'll be going with 1/8" no cut out then. The roads here in OC/SoCal are pretty nice, so don't think I'll need the extra thickness.

 

I don't quite understand one thing, some of you actually kept the original undertray on top of the skid plate? Is there a purpose for that?

 

If you don't there's a gap in the front that could spoil the low pressure area right behind the radiator fans. Salt and whatnot getting up in the bay might be an issue if you have that problem in your area.

I never had a plastic under tray on mine, so now I'm bouncing around ideas of grabbing some semi-flexible plastic from home depot and rigging something up since it gets quite warm here.

FWIW, I've done two oil changes with mine now and I find install/uninstall to be no big deal. But then again, I'm just the right amount of fat to hold it up with my belly while I get the bolts started...

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I hacked up my stock broken under tray and I zip tie two pieces to my plate. Definitely seals up the engine bay from the elements better than just the plate alone, which is lacking in total coverage otherwise.

 

The area around the mounting bolts in the front of mine have rusted out. I need to get the two front nuts rewelded to the frame, 30k miles or so with it on.

 

Not a 5th gen, but still maybe useful for you.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=180520&d=1398357398

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I think for some of the guys in the salt belt, its in an effort to keep things from rusting. You should be perfectly fine in SoCal with just the skidplate and you can basically toss the OEM plastic tray unless you plan to go back to stock in the future

 

If you don't there's a gap in the front that could spoil the low pressure area right behind the radiator fans. Salt and whatnot getting up in the bay might be an issue if you have that problem in your area.

I never had a plastic under tray on mine, so now I'm bouncing around ideas of grabbing some semi-flexible plastic from home depot and rigging something up since it gets quite warm here.

FWIW, I've done two oil changes with mine now and I find install/uninstall to be no big deal. But then again, I'm just the right amount of fat to hold it up with my belly while I get the bolts started...

 

Salt isn't an issue here... at all lol! But I am concerned about containing the pressure that was intended by the OE design. I'll most likely modify and zip tie the original undertray (main section is already damaged) so it will fit around the skid plate, but also making it so it won't need to be removed separately after taking the skid plate off during maintenance.

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Just adding my two cents. I have the 3/16" one and stock suspension. I removed the turbo heat shield and bottom plastic tray. I left the front most plastic tray that is under the radiator and extends around the sides. I just dremeled out the plastic where the left and right bolts go so that the standoffs sit flush against the frame rather than being on top of the plastic. Everything seems to be sealed up pretty well still. No issues with clearance (because stock suspension probably) and no rubbing on Nameless DP or anything else.
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Just adding my two cents. I have the 3/16" one and stock suspension. I removed the turbo heat shield and bottom plastic tray. I left the front most plastic tray that is under the radiator and extends around the sides. I just dremeled out the plastic where the left and right bolts go so that the standoffs sit flush against the frame rather than being on top of the plastic. Everything seems to be sealed up pretty well still. No issues with clearance (because stock suspension probably) and no rubbing on Nameless DP or anything else.

 

Got a pic? :)

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