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1-touch sunroof close and more


mikeyd

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When soldering the wires in the headliner, I recommend covering your seats, dash and center console. It will keep the slag from dropping on anything in the car. Also here is a picture of my wire soldering work.

 

Also when I press and hold the "tilt closed" there is no beep.

 

And I took the SR motor out to solder... way easier than doing it above my head.

SRM.jpg.46e33da305bc139779d51293c70e9640.jpg

**There are two types of people in the world, those who build horsepower and those who buy it. Which one are you?
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I cannot see much in your photo but, no beep when holding tilt-down (assuming your ignition is on) tells us things. I'll wait until your PM response about my other questions before making guesses. 2006 and 2007 I do not have the factory service manual diagram for and I did find that the 2006 wagon had different wire colors then I expected. The sedan may also, you are the only 2006 sedan in the list. It would be helpful for me to see a photo of the motor harness that you have spliced into.

 

Did you find that your colors at least seem to match exactly with whats on my install sheet? Let me know bout these and my PM questions and we'll figure it out.

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Ok figured it out. I used a splicer (picture attached) that was not cutting into the smaller gauge wire. That would be wire numbers (by "main wiring diagram") 1, 2, and 6.

 

So I took off the splicers, peeled back the wire insulation on each of the three wires, soldered, and “black taped” them.

 

Now all systems are a go! Everything works as it should.

 

As for you question about the 2006 sedan wire colors; they are the same as you have listed. So the colors have been verified and are just as you have stated in the instructions. Now you can take the stars off the "vehicle wire colors" chart.

 

Your questions asked in the PM are as follows: they are the same as the rest of the other model year LGTs with no differences. (As they should be.)

 

Thanks again for the great product!!! (I left positive feedback on your page.)

160272099_wiresplicer.png.f4c0b93b84fa6e5fac3a90802082493e.png

**There are two types of people in the world, those who build horsepower and those who buy it. Which one are you?
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Really.. I thought I noticed a couple of those dumbass contraptions in there.

 

Hey hey hey, I used one of those to tap into a tail light for my trailer relay and it works fine.........;)

"Remember Danny - Two wrongs don't make a right but three rights make a left."
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Just kiddin :-)

 

BTW.. I know I forgot to paint the white markings on a couple of the harnesses I sent out, so just pay attention plugging those 2 harnesses in (since they fit either slot). Of course if you weren't paying attention, the white markings wouldn't help. Just follow the diagram, red should be at the outter edge of the module.

 

Making a contraption tonight to adapt my cars switches to operate like a wagon so I can test the wagon modules.

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Finally got a chance to mess around with it. Remove the connectors for the motor, and the one tap for the tilt down button. Still nothing works, I can enter programming mode and it seems like everything is turned on. I'll have to pull the motor out double check to see if those are solder on good which I think they are.

276hp/347tq On a DynoJet

Dyno Video - Had a big lean spot as you can tell in the second pull

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Alright so you've got power. Snap a photo while your in there so I can just verify you put them on the correct pins. If you've got a multimeter/voltmeter, perhaps verify that when the glass is closing (while motor running), the blue wire has 12v+ (the green would have 12v+ when opening).
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I'll double check everything this weekend. It's funny you would think I'd have no problem wiring this up since I'm a electrician, give me 120/277 to do and I'm fine but 12v meh lol.

276hp/347tq On a DynoJet

Dyno Video - Had a big lean spot as you can tell in the second pull

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Alright so you've got power. Snap a photo while your in there so I can just verify you put them on the correct pins. If you've got a multimeter/voltmeter, perhaps verify that when the glass is closing (while motor running), the blue wire has 12v+ (the green would have 12v+ when opening).

 

Not sure if it helps, stupid iphone's. lol

 

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v326/StevenCole/EFB29626-3449-4C4E-95E5-B560230C3D78-2958-0000008E02C06D41.jpg

 

 

its the tiny wires:rolleyes::lol:

 

 

It really is :lol:

276hp/347tq On a DynoJet

Dyno Video - Had a big lean spot as you can tell in the second pull

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You mentioned you were going to pull the motor out to check your connections there. That's the one I was hoping to see, to verify. I don't like seeing those crimp connectors but to most efficiently find the problem assuming you have a multimeter... test each wire for it's expected state at the modules harness. The instructions lists out how do check a few of them. It's straight forward though. Specifically I think you'll want to verify the motor connections (12v+ on blue when motor closing, 12v+ on green when opening) and the close/open switch wires (12v+ on gray when close switch is down and 12v+ on blue for open switch). Let me know what you find. Are you able to solder wires if it comes to that?
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