5EAT Ask your Questions!?!

[argyle409]

Should I remove my tranny cooler for winter, I live Southern, CT and go skiing a lot in VT/NH… As it's been getting colder out, like a 40 degree mornings even after letting the car idle an warm up for five minutes it takes a bit for the fluid to warm up, so as a result it stays in 1st and 2nd longer than avg in auto and when it does shift it gives a noticeable jerk…

[frank_ster]

install derale thermostat

[discojon]

Throwing P0761 code: shift Solenoid 'C' Performance or Stuck Off... any advice here guys before I go out and drop my pan again... already did a full fluid flush.

 

is this something that will be repairable on the VB or is it more than likely that I will need a new OEM VB

I've seen this a few times and long high speed cruising on the interstate. Typically happens on the same stretch of road for me. The car shifts just fine when it happens. I typically reset TCU/ ecu and move on.

[LightFantastic]

Figure I'd post this here,

Just in case someone doesn't have time to watch the video..

-He got a new 5eat transmission which shifts perfectly fine when in drive.

-When he switches to sport mode, he gets shift shock when going into 2nd and 3rd gear, but only under light acceleration. Under harder acceleration, there is no shift shock in sport mode.

-When in manual mode or tiptronic mode using the steering wheel buttons to shift, he also gets shift shock.

[frank_ster]

Sounds like a performance transmission to me

 

Probably just needs to learn its charatictics again

 

The eltxm onlu learns when drivng 10-15% throtle

[fishbone]

I'm waiting for colder temps here to do some ATF monitoring, what I've noticed is that there's a 100*F difference between ambient and ATF temp. In the summer, if it's 80, ATF is 180. If it's 40 outside, ATF is 140. I'm hoping it doesn't dip lower.

[snow05gtRI]

what tool is it that I can monitor ATF temp? and is there a good writeup?

 

i... removed my cooler. want to see how the temps look.

[frank_ster]

u can just use free ssm to read atf temps

[aziankingz]

Anyone know how many quarts of ATF to fill up an empty 5EAT tranny with cooler?

[frank_ster]

empty as you drained the pan ? or empty after overhaul ?

 

empty for the pan is somewhere between 4-6 L

[turbolgt]

Why would I get a po500 code after getting a lil hung up in my snow filled driveway. ?

[discojon]

Why would I get a po500 code after getting a lil hung up in my snow filled driveway. ?

Wheels were slipping and front / rear were traveling at different rates. TCU doesn't care for that much. It should reset after a few drives. You can scan the TCU with romraider logger.

[tLewis7]

Anyone know how many quarts of ATF to fill up an empty 5EAT tranny with cooler?

 

On my 2009 it is 4ish quarts with pan only drain and fill. Empty or with a DIY flush the manual states 10.2 quarts and I estimate that my cooler (smallest Long TruCool 4451 with dimension of 4"x12"), lines and Derale thermostatic bypass valve to be about an additional 12-15 oz. Rumor has it that the 5 EAT do better a little low versus a little overfilled and I run my between the "H" and "L" marks. When checking, I seem to get an easier fluid level to read after shifting into "R" and "D" for 10-15 seconds between EACH level check. I also remove just the TMIC bracket on the driver's side (really easy to do) to give me more room and make the checks easier.

[InTheBay]

Okay, I have a doozie for you.

 

I've installed a BNR 18G and supporting mods, and am at the end of tuning it with Ed at XRT. I've been driving around and the trans has started slipping under load in the higher gears (late 3rd, 4th and 5th). It's going to deteriorate obviously. This leaves me with a dilemma, should I do a 5EAT rebuild with IPT parts, and have you guys do a valve body. Or, do i locate a 5 or 6 speed MT and swap the ECU, trans, driveshaft and related parts? I'm unsure of the costs of both. I can do all work myself, so it would just be the cost of parts. Any input would be greatly appreciated!

 

 

Sent from my tiny expensive personal computer

[aziankingz]

Thanks guys for answering my question earlier. Now I have another question; I was reading up about there being an early 05 5EAT and a later 05 5EAT? If i were to try and put on a later 05 5EAT on my earlier model 05 5EAT, would it be possible/compatible? What is the difference between the two?

[BarManBean]

Okay, I have a doozie for you.

 

I've installed a BNR 18G and supporting mods, and am at the end of tuning it with Ed at XRT. I've been driving around and the trans has started slipping under load in the higher gears (late 3rd, 4th and 5th). It's going to deteriorate obviously. This leaves me with a dilemma, should I do a 5EAT rebuild with IPT parts, and have you guys do a valve body. Or, do i locate a 5 or 6 speed MT and swap the ECU, trans, driveshaft and related parts? I'm unsure of the costs of both. I can do all work myself, so it would just be the cost of parts. Any input would be greatly appreciated!

 

 

Sent from my tiny expensive personal computer

 

I can't speak to the 5eat build, but regarding the 6mt/5mt swap, make sure you know what you are getting into. Many competent mechanics have tried, and I'm pretty sure that few have succeeded. The general consensus is to just fix the 5eat, sell it, and buy a manual car to build off of. Choice is yours tho

[discojon]

I can't speak to the 5eat build, but regarding the 6mt/5mt swap, make sure you know what you are getting into. Many competent mechanics have tried, and I'm pretty sure that few have succeeded. The general consensus is to just fix the 5eat, sell it, and buy a manual car to build off of. Choice is yours tho

I have a bnr18g and a ton of other crap, look up build thread. Go with the hexmods f1 valve body. My car has 175k on OEM transmission, clutch discs and all. The last 45k are on the "stage 4" level. Routine atf changes are key. As for swapping to mt, as bmb said, not worth it. Find a good my shell and transfer over.

[g3rizon]

Forgot to check this thread when I made the original post in the Fourth Gen sub forum. Hopefully this question won't be too much of a bother. I'm gonna' quote it here. Thanks, guys.

 

"Hey there guys, sorry to bother you with what might seem like a really "basic" question.. but I'm a little paranoid, so bare with me.

 

Last night, coming home from work, I decided to take an uphill corner a fairly decent rate of speed. I came into the corner at around the middle point of the gear (I believe I was in 3rd, was definitely "within boost") and upon reaching the point where the automatic transmission should have shifted into 4th, the car seemed to lag, shift, lag, and then apply power back to the car.

 

After this harsh shift, I noticed that I had a check engine light come on, coupled with a blinking cruise control light. At that point, I babied the car home, parked it, and allowed the car to cool down for the night. Upon inspecting the car when driving into work this morning, I'm still showing lights.

 

I'm going to try to bring the car into a local parts shop to see if they wouldn't mind putting it on a scanner for me, and letting me know what the code might be.. but for now, I'm stuck inside; wondering.

 

Are there any 5EAT owners who may have had this happen to them as well, or have heard of it? I didn't believe myself as being too hard on the car during that short sprint, as I was not wide open on the throttle, or doing anything that I feel I couldn't do in a similar vehicle without worry.

 

Any insight would be greatly appreciated!

 

Have a good one!"

[seangee]

My 05 outback has 125k miles on it. Lately it has been shifting late on the freeway. Like the time between when the shift starts and when it ends is increasing noticeably, sometimes seeming to take 2 or 3 seconds. Can you tell me why and what I can do to remedy this? Thanks in advance fellas

[frank_ster]

^ could be anything, they are known for being slow shifting trans for comfort purposes.

things you can do

 

change fluid .

tcu relearn

burn car to ground.

or get a valve body from hex mods.

[seangee]

Thanks Frank, think I will start with the fluid change

[fishbone]

125K? Has it ever had the fluid changed? Go for a full change, not just a pan drain/fill, that will only replace about a quarter. ATF flushing machines on high mileage transmissions got a bad rep for good reasons, but if you find someone that has a fluid exchange machine you should be safe. It will let the trans pump move the fluid and it will do a complete change. There are several to choose from, as long as the machine doesn't do a reverse flush or pressurizes the fluid, it's OK. Call and ask, but I do believe Valvoline can handle it, and any shop that has a BG machine on site. Both fluids are compatible with Subaru ATF-HP spec.

[frank_ster]

well there isn't 12 quarts of oil in the torque converter.

 

most of the oil is changed when the pan is drained.

 

what i have done is drained and filled the pan.

 

removed a cooler line and aimed it into a bucket start the car and let it pump that fesh fluid through and out of the the cooler line.

 

and then refill.

 

and caution .. the auto trans has two dipsticks !

 

left side is for atf fluid and the right side ( passenger side other than japan England ) is front differential gear oil.

as a few people have drained the atf fluid and filled into the front diff !

[kzr750r1]

Pan drop twice (Drive a little between drops) on a car after sitting a while will help pull the clutch debris out and refresh fluid. Jacking the passenger side nets additional fluid removal per drop. After doing this your going to replace almost 10q+ of fluid.

[fishbone]

Wasn't the consensus best to do it 3 times since you're still mixing old with new fluid at every change. A pan drain gets about 4.5 quarts out, is that correct? I have 30K on my Amsoil ATF and while it looks like new I want to do one pan drain/fill to keep it fresh. I figured one 5 quart jug should be enough.