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Tuned perfect at 75k, now at 76k steering wheel hops in 3rd, 3.5-3.75k; 5EAT


Soda Popinski

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The torque converter is by far the biggest heat producer, not shifting. Even with near instant shifting, the torque converter is still pumping heat.

The only way to scientifically determine if a cooler is needed or not is to monitor temps.

 

Speaking from personal experience, If you see the ATF Temp light (in a nice yellow/orange hue) come on in your dash, your tranny will eventually start to slip and go out on you.

 

Based on OP's description of how he runs this car, tranny cooler would've been advised.

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It's enough to get just once a cel related to gear ratios and you know you're fuxed. I dont remember what temp triggers the light, i want to say mid or high 200s, but it's generally regarded as being at the point that it's asinine, just like the low oil pressure light.
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I pm'd ClimberD about the core, if that's what it takes to get a working valve body so we can all benefit, so be it.

 

If he wants the entire transmission I can send that too.

 

On a side note: I get better success turning off the traction control (3rd gear now atleast grabs, even if it seems 50% cutch) with TCS on, it just skips 3rd.

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If your tranny is starting to slip you should drive it exclusively in the manual mode. This will apply higher line pressure to the clutches so they should slip less and last a little bit longer. Mine failed from the top down (5th then 4th) and that's what I did till I researched things and got mine rebuilt. Good luck!
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ya, what 3rd exhibits in "D" mode is the same as if someone had a clutch 50% down in manual. it races to 4th. But bangs into 3rd from 2nd. In Manual mode, it grabs until 4k then shutters, then is fine.

 

In "D" 4th gear is starting to exhibit similar vibrations.

 

 

 

In other news, the tranny is being shipped today. But shipping regulations had them empty the dif fluid and the trans fluid.

 

Carfax has the tranny at 52k miles with an impeccable inspection and maintenance record. How many quarts or liters of fluid will I need to fill it up if I put Amsoil in, and should I buy extra Amsoil ATF and do that 16 qt flush?

 

How many quarts / liters is the front dif?

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Amsoil Universal ATF. You'll need approx 6 quarts if the tq converter has been removed or if the Valve body has been removed, possibly more.

 

I'd buy the 2.5 gallon jug and have extra on hand. You'll also need 2 quarts of front diff fluid once you take delivery of the tranny.

 

I'd also make sure you spend the extra $20 or so for new seals for the tranny. 2 for the front half shafts that enter the front diff and one for the tail housing that mates with your drive line.

 

Both tranny warranties dictated that I put a new ATF filter in place. If the tranny pan is loose from their drain procedure, then I'd take the screen filter off of the VB (if '08 has one) and gently clean the screen. I used a parts cleaner and brush to gently clean mine, both times I was making changes.

 

In my '06, even with a Tq converter that was supposedly emptied, it took approx 7 quarts to re-fill. It took forever to re-fill. Probably 10 test drives and top-offs before fluid levels started to stabilize.

 

Like I said, I bought the Ams 2.5 gal jug to have on hand. It's even worth becoming one of their "preferred customers" to save the cash. You'll still spend less than what you would on $10/quart for Subie HPS ATF fluids.

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Look, maybe if you didn't beat the shit out of your car(s) and/or mod incorrectly or not at all, maybe you wouldn't have engines grenading and trannies shitting the bed.

Your tranny acted up as far back as 08.

You neglected the ATF.

You as much as caught air at a rally and while as awesome as that was, the fact that the tranny just now gave up the ghost is only a testament to the strength of the unit.

You managed to wear out a set of Hawk pads within 15K miles.

You destroyed a motor and proceeded to delete evidence and lie to have it covered under SOA's warranty. Which really affects us all since warranty work is not unlike tax: we all pay for it in the end.

For you to show up in the 5EAT thread and say "watch out guys, this thing can't hold more than xyz" is asinine.

What you need to do is get the cheapest Legacy you can get and daily drive that, and then get the cheapest WRX you can and use it for rally.

I should have just given you the cold shoulder the moment you opened this thread, but I'm pretty easy going and forgetful. I sincerely hope you dump Subaru altogether and move onto another car that you can beat into the ground.

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You also somehow ended up having to replace an engine in the previous car you owned AND ran the Legacy out of oil, bone dry, when it was brand new, by driving like an asshat. It's all here on this forum and it's all coming back to haunt you every time you have a mechanical problem, and will continue to happen until you start realizing you're 34 years old and have a severe lack of common sense and respect for cars.

You've known about the inadequacies of the auto since at least 09, have been considering IPT since at least that time, yet you didn't even take the time to install a damn cooler.

 

I momentarily have that kind of time so I am digging up shit I forgot about.

I always kinda thought others in the community were overly harsh with you and I'm beginning to understand why I was very wrong in my thinking.

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It's not a money mismanagement issue. It's a behavioral issue. You wreck shit and then ask for help. If it were just asking for help it would be ok-ish, but you're also stubborn, persistent, and won't even take advice most of the time. So what's the point anymore? I hope you have realized all this is a direct result of your actions, so now the question is what are you going to do about it? Are you going to continue to throw money at the symptoms, or address the root problem?
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as I just PM'd you, I've spent over 10,000 dollars on "mistakes" to 'pay-to-play' so I think I've earned... no... BOUGHT the right to wonder how not to repeat mistakes.

 

That SOA warranty on the motor was NOT a freebie. I paid 3995 + tax + other parts not covered on the warranty to replace the motor out of my own pocket, instead of just a shortblock. I then paid for a turbo myself, and countless other systems that have failed. I'm also paying for the transmission then letting ClimberB have my dead one instead of fixing it and selling it myself so we ALL can enjoy a VB mod that works (hopefully).

 

I admittedly beat on the car, it's past warranty, and it's my money. I reject the notion t hat it broke 'just because I drove it that way' but instead ponder (while I wait for the transmission) how to prevent it again mechanically. I have 6 days to kill before it gets here.

 

the other half hopes others that drive the way I do might see how expensive it is to play to play, and might avoid some of the costly problems I have had.

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You already know what you need to do to prevent it from happening, you just don't like the answer: return to stock and back out of rallies.

I spent a total of about 3 grand on my LGT. Nothing broke down, except a tranny speed sensor. My secret? I'm a sedate driver, I don't participate in rallies and I am cautious and conservative about every mod and try to research the shit out of every step. It's not rocket science. The first thing I ever got was a tune. The last thing I ever got was a downpipe, which I hooked up just yesterday after having been at "Stage 2" for years now. I am basically built for a bigger turbo yet I'm sticking with the stock one, at least for now.

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I don't want to drive this car like a grocery go-getter. I want to drive it like it was sold to me as being able to do; and to adjust and modify the car to custom tailor my driving habits for what it can't (If possible).

 

and for what it's worth, I can't possibly think of one instance where I asked for advice, and then didn't take it (provided it wasn't some snarky or snide jab at making fun of me). come on guy

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(a) I don't want to drive this car like a grocery go-getter. I want to drive it like it was sold to me as being able to do

 

(b) ; and to adjust and modify the car to custom tailor my driving habits for what it can't (If possible).

 

Broken down for you. You can do a without b, or b without a, or b with a only if you do a missing © which is reinforced/research proper engineering for what you want to do.

 

I think you know that at this point though.

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You said cost is something you're looking at. I told you a new tranny is a waste of money, yet you plunged down for one. So there's one example.

If you continue to drive it hard then you need to make peace with the fact that there is no such thing as a bulletproof recipe. You need to strengthen the transmission one way or another, you need to make sure the tune is in tip top shape, you need to make sure you don't neglect maintenance and THEN you can hope nothing major will break down.

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Don't think there's anything wrong with him grabbing a new trans. For now stay out of S# until you finish strengthening the old trans, swap, sell new trans. Makes sense to me anyhow. Not the cheapest way to do it for sure, but it keeps the downtime minimal while still working towards the proper solution.

 

Maintenance is a separate issue entirely, everything is going to die if maintained poorly.

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How much has this car cost you? Get a beater for the winter and get something for everything else that satisfies your thirst for power out of the box instead of rolling in a Legacy that by my estimates will soon scratch mid-40s $$$. You could have gotten an STi that out of the box would more than likely have made you happy and certainly blown the doors off your current LGT both in a straight line and in rally.
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Don't think there's anything wrong with him grabbing a new trans.

If you are trying to save money everything is wrong with grabbing another transmission when it is not needed. He will need to invest the same money into strengthening it anyway.

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