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Tuned perfect at 75k, now at 76k steering wheel hops in 3rd, 3.5-3.75k; 5EAT

Soda Popinski

By Soda Popinski
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ShadowImg Mentor

ShadowImg

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Found mine using this search:

http://www.cars.com/for-sale/used/2009/subaru/legacy/2-5-gt-spec-b/_/N-ma9Zfl5ZfgpZghuZhfbZm5d?sf1Dir=DESC&mkId=20041&mdId=21378&rd=100000&zc=60201&PMmt=1-1-0&stkTypId=28881&sf2Dir=ASC&sf1Nm=price&yrId=20201&sf2Nm=miles&isDealerGrouping=false&rpp=50&feedSegId=28705&searchSource=GN_REFINEMENT&crSrtFlds=stkTypId-feedSegId-mkId-mdId-yrId-trId&pgId=2102&trId=22583

 

Craigslist is another place to look. If you're going to hold out for a RRP, good luck! You could be waiting a while.

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Soda Popinski Mentor

Soda Popinski

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ATF cooler is not any 800-1000. Tru cool 4454. Mounts right in front of the radiator. Less than 60 bucks shipped.

 

Possibly you should have researched first before modification..

 

This was one of those projects on the to-do list, but the rally came up first. Guys on the rally had some pretty high end cars, and some of those had some expensive mods. A Trans cooler was one of those discussed (at that range).

 

Lesson learned.

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doccrowley Experienced

doccrowley

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Amsoil Universal ATF. You'll need approx 6 quarts if the tq converter has been removed or if the Valve body has been removed, possibly more.

 

I'd buy the 2.5 gallon jug and have extra on hand. You'll also need 2 quarts of front diff fluid once you take delivery of the tranny.

 

I'd also make sure you spend the extra $20 or so for new seals for the tranny. 2 for the front half shafts that enter the front diff and one for the tail housing that mates with your drive line.

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Soda Popinski Mentor

Soda Popinski

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I believe I'm going to (as a business decision) get the car fixed and then sell it for what I can get at this point.

 

The transmission was literally unmated from the motor, and then removed from the car by disconecting the drive shaft.

 

The TQ is still in the transmission, and whatever else is attached between it and the drive shaft.

 

Good call on the seals, I'll call the dealership tomorrow and inquire. $20 is nothing.

 

I'll let them put whatever in they need for ATF.

 

I've already invested over 8,000 in repairs alone for this car, tranny included. I'm just sad that the reliability of these cars just doesn't meet my driving habits. I'm not sure what car can be driven hard day in and day out without breaking. I'd love to grab the new STi sedan but I'm not sure if it would be better to get something that was designed for abuse.

 

It's not like I even miss oil changes or neglect the car... I just like to get on the highway and open it up, or drive hard through the turns, on the edge. I guess the 5AET is more eye candy (so to speak) than the 6MT, even with the promise of 'rally style' shifting on the wheel like the salesman sold me 3 years ago.

 

Just want to get in, step on the gas and push it without shit breaking all the time.

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ShadowImg Mentor

ShadowImg

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Given that the 08 and 09 are the same car, that's actually rather hilarious. Having had both, there's very little noticeable difference, unless you're really into the brand Harmon Kardon (the sound is pretty much the same).

 

The AP is transferrable. Just unmarry it and marry it to the new one. You'll need the maps for the MT. They're downloadable.

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RIPjeep2002 Veteran

RIPjeep2002

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If you love you eat and want to save money instead of taking a loss and a longer car payment, why dint you just buy a used valve body, send it to ClimberD, let him do his mod to it, and you become the first 08 with his modification? It would be around 2k, and you could put it in yourself with assistance from a buddy. To me, with the amount of money you have invested in that car, thay would be the best financial decision.

 

Or if you dont feel comfortable exchanging valve bodies, take it to EFI Logics in CT and let them do it.

 

Also, the 5eat holds up well to stg2. Once over that like you are, thays where the problem is. Msprank lost his when he upgraded his turbo.. I am 38k on my 09, 20k of that at stg2 with many dyno pulls and nothing wrong here.

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Soda Popinski Mentor

Soda Popinski

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If you love you eat and want to save money instead of taking a loss and a longer car payment, why dint you just buy a used valve body, send it to ClimberD, let him do his mod to it, and you become the first 08 with his modification? It would be around 2k, and you could put it in yourself with assistance from a buddy. To me, with the amount of money you have invested in that car, thay would be the best financial decision.

 

Quite simply, I never heard of ClimberD before this thread. EFI was the only one I've ever heard that did it, and all I gathered from THAT VB mod was that you went from 0.6 second shifts (when you tap + or - on the paddles in sequential shift) to 0.2. For the price, I could live without the .4 second gain.

 

I never knew the VB could add hp and tq capacity to your transmission... and even now, from what others PM'd me on it, ClimberD's version doesn't exist yet.

 

If it will help perhaps he can have my core old transmission once it's changed?

 

 

I didn't know it was going to break until it broke. My quest here is to find out why so I don't repeat it again.

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fishbone Grand Master

fishbone

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Quite simply, I never heard of ClimberD before this thread. EFI was the only one I've ever heard that did it, and all I gathered from THAT VB mod was that you went from 0.6 second shifts (when you tap + or - on the paddles in sequential shift) to 0.2. For the price, I could live without the .4 second gain.

That's not the point. The point is the slow shift is akin to riding the clutch in a MT. It chews up clutches. The faster the shift, the less wear on the clutches. THAT is the point of a valve body mod.

I didn't know it was going to break until it broke. My quest here is to find out why so I don't repeat it again.

It's pretty clear by now. Higher than stock power, driven hard, no supporting mods.

It doesn't mean the auto can't hold more power than your car was producing. It just means that yours broke.

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bmx045 Grand Master

bmx045

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Well, climber doesn't really recommend a cooler, and after his vb mod I don't think you'd need it as slippage and heat production is far reduced. I'd day do the vb mod and drain/refill the ATF every 30k or so...you should be golden. But I'm also waiting for the vb mod to be done for 07+.....curious to see the results...
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bmx045 Grand Master

bmx045

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the reason I say this is because I had an atf cooler on mine and the torque converter rarely locked up when it should've, this was because the atf was below operating temps and being overcooled. the radiator, which is the stock tranny cooler as well, btw, does a good job...so in say that, if your engine temps are controlled fine, your tranny temps will be too. atf and the tranny is designed to operate in a specific temp range, people have installed tranny coolers with thermostats to achieve this so in the winter the aft doesn't get too cold for operating temp
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RIPjeep2002 Veteran

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ClimberD is looking for a test mule currently for his 08 valve body. You should PM him.

 

And it failed b/c you went and upgraded your turbo and then drove it like you stole it. Many a 5eat fail with an upgraded turbo. Msprank, rao, hpjunkie, etcetc.

 

PM ClimberD and see what he can do for you, and I bet the two of you could work something out, and it won't be a financial blow to you.

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rao Grand Master

rao

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ClimberD is looking for a test mule currently for his 08 valve body. You should PM him.

 

And it failed b/c you went and upgraded your turbo and then drove it like you stole it. Many a 5eat fail with an upgraded turbo. Msprank, rao, hpjunkie, etcetc.

 

PM ClimberD and see what he can do for you, and I bet the two of you could work something out, and it won't be a financial blow to you.

 

I have never had an auto transmission Subaru, leave me out of this :)

Rob

 

 

 

IF YOU CARE ABOUT YOUR CAR YOU SHOULD NEVER DRIVE IT

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fishbone Grand Master

fishbone

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The torque converter is by far the biggest heat producer, not shifting. Even with near instant shifting, the torque converter is still pumping heat.

The only way to scientifically determine if a cooler is needed or not is to monitor temps.

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