monkeyposeur Posted April 14, 2012 Share Posted April 14, 2012 Got the SS a temporary registration so I could drive it as much as I want for two weeks and she's insured. The good news is that as long as I keep it in manual mode I don't hear that clunking sound. I am now throwing the CEL code for the neutral safety switch, which could be the cause of the transmission clunking. Perhaps the neutral switch is coming on? I tightened the new exhaust spring bolts up but I can still see water dripping out of the gasket. I must not have a good seal and maybe I am losing a bit of compression because of that? IDK. I'll replace it again or go to a muffler shop and see what they can do. That is the only thing keeping me from getting my safety. But I rallied the SS all around town today! She starts out a bit slow in first, but then picks up, and REALLY picks up around 30-40 mph. Woo hoo! Corners like a beast too! Way stiffer than my second gen wagon, lol. I better be careful with this gal or I will get myself in some trouble. The brakes are really nice too. Stopping power is really good and fast with a pretty stiff pedal feel. The sound system is really nice and will be even better when I hook up the two 12" subs in the trunk. Still throwing CEL code 35 but I know what that is, evap purge valve, and I pulled off a used one from my junk SS wagon so I'll swap them over. I am getting another code but I don't remember what it is specifically at the moment. A fuel something or other. So still a few bugs to work out but hey, she is running like a champ. My PCV line is pinched because I used a straight piece of hose and bent it to fit. I'll get the real OEM piece soon. Yay! I did it! I was a total noob but I did it anyway. I'm not saying it's perfect, but still. I gave it to the wifey this evening and she loves it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted April 15, 2012 Share Posted April 15, 2012 I replaced the vacuum line that goes from the fuel pressure regulator to the intake manifold and my 'shifting problem' has gone away completely and I have lots of power and boost. The broken line was causing some kind of misfire or explosion that felt to me like the transmission was clunking, and it wasn't shifting like it should. Last night I was revving the engine and heard a whistle and fond the broken line. I broke the end off and put it back on and it ran fine. I drove it this morning and the old line split and the problem came back of course so I just replaced it in about two minutes. I also hooked up two 12" subs in the trunk and she is bumpin' like a m*&%^%$#@r. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacy Wagon Posted April 16, 2012 Share Posted April 16, 2012 just go to the junkyard and grab the hardware off another car. Easier said than done. I live in Florida There's very few Subaru's in Florida. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackhawkMac Posted April 19, 2012 Share Posted April 19, 2012 Man you need to come up here to the great northwest we have scoobyroos out here for days, i love it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted April 20, 2012 Share Posted April 20, 2012 Same here! I just raided a nice 99 OB for the complete interior for $100 for my second gen. It feels like a brand new car! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackhawkMac Posted April 20, 2012 Share Posted April 20, 2012 I posted this on another forum but, does anyone know if struts out of a '97 Outback Wagon will fit into a '92 Legacy Wagon? I am trying to make my 1st gen a little more off road friendly, but at the same time I don't want to piss a bunch of money into a body lift(in my opinion they are useless and dangerous:icon_neut). And just looking at a stock Legacy and a stock Outback sitting side by side the Outback seems to sit a little higher. Ideally I want to fit some 235/75R15 all terrian tires underneath but this may be a pipe dream I am not sure. I know it can be done but I am married and I have kids which = not a lot of extra money lying around. But to my benifit I work at a wrecking yard so getting parts for cheap is the way I roll:cool:, that and I am learning some fabrication along the way. So anyone with any advice would be greatly appricated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted April 20, 2012 Share Posted April 20, 2012 They'll fit just fine. Please change your font, it makes my eyes hurt. Outback struts will make your car sit higher, but not dangerously and uselessly so. You can fit 15" tires easy on your stock suspension. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackhawkMac Posted April 20, 2012 Share Posted April 20, 2012 Sweet, Thanks for that, I have a 97 Outback sitting in my junk yard, just need to get some time to pull those off. Sorry about the font. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacy Wagon Posted April 20, 2012 Share Posted April 20, 2012 ^^ Your own junk yard? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted April 22, 2012 Share Posted April 22, 2012 The SS is smooth. edit: I installed a salvaged driver's side visor that stays up! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacy Wagon Posted April 23, 2012 Share Posted April 23, 2012 Hey, awesome, man! I'm freakin happy for you Also, I found that a passenger side one works well if you cant find a driver. That's what's in my wagon right now and it's been holding up for about 2 years. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted April 23, 2012 Share Posted April 23, 2012 Good to know. There are plenty of passenger side ones at the yard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacy Wagon Posted April 23, 2012 Share Posted April 23, 2012 Yeah, most people probably just take the driver. The only thing about the passenger is the mirror is on the outside haha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted April 26, 2012 Share Posted April 26, 2012 I replaced the crush washer on my oil plug. I had it backwards. The leak lessened but I realized that the PO had bashed the plug and it crinkled the pan and made a small crack. JB weld? I can get a replacement pan at the bone yard, but it looks like a pita to replace while the engine is in. Also I fixed the exhaust leak where the down pipe meets the mid pipe. I had some old gasket crud on the flange and chipped it off. No more leak, and I finally passed safety and emissions! She's totally legal now! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacy Wagon Posted April 26, 2012 Share Posted April 26, 2012 Pretty sure you have to pull the engine to get to some of the bolts under the crossmember. You may be able to drop the crossmember and jack up the engine, but it'd be easier to pull it. I remember a friend buying a new oil pan for his and he said "screw it" cause the bolts sucked. I dont see why JB weld wouldnt work for slowing it down at least, if not completely fixing it...if it will adhere, that is. It's a git-r-done fix, but those work a good 75% of the time Hey! Congratulations, man Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted April 26, 2012 Share Posted April 26, 2012 Thanks! We'll see how the Premium gets her going. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted April 26, 2012 Share Posted April 26, 2012 Hey, this guy was able to do it on his OB w/o removing the engine (from beergarage.com): http://beergarage.com/SubyOilPan.aspx One problem is getting the motor mounts to clear the crossmember. I dropped my engine back in, had almost everything hooked back up and got on the creeper to bolt the engine mounts. I looked around and was like "where are the motor mount bolts?" I forgot to put them back on the block! First I tried to jack up then trans so I could get them in. Not enough space though. So I hooked the engine hoist back up and pulled the engine up as much as I could without pulling the car off the ground. With some swearing and extensions I was able to get the motor mounts back on. I was thinking how I would never want to swap in new mounts and never wanted to be in that spot again. Hmmm... I'll try the JB weld first. I'll drain the oil, wait a bit, clean the area around the crack, sand it, apply JBweld, and see what happens. If it gets the leak down to a teeny drip I'll be happy since most subies leak a lot more oil than my spotless 22T. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacy Wagon Posted April 26, 2012 Share Posted April 26, 2012 XD Man..that sucks. I cracked my motor mounts in half on the red wagon probably 3 weeks after I got it. Stupid used mounts Right? That's what I'd do. But I'm cheap haha Sucks that you didnt notice the oil pan leakage when it was out of the car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted April 30, 2012 Share Posted April 30, 2012 (edited) I swapped in the good coaxials that were sitting in the back to the front, and put the stockers in the back. I also installed some 96 OB stocker tweeters in the front. They fit allright it you clip a few of the tabs. Sounds awesome. The wife was complaining that the sound system wasn't sounding great with certain types of music. Now she is singing praises, lol. Edited April 30, 2012 by monkeyposeur Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackhawkMac Posted May 2, 2012 Share Posted May 2, 2012 I was going to install an aftermarket radio, until I was looking in some of the 1st gen scoobys that we have at the yard and I found a stock radio that has an auxiliary input in the front (3.5mm style) so needless to say I grabbed that as fast as I could out of a 91 Legacy Sedan, total score. Now today I am going to try and get the struts out of that 97 Outback before it meets the crusher but it is the sad fate of a lot of good cars, I try and stash the subis until they are found again by the crush crew. But the "Greys Harbor Zombie Patrol" car is underway, gonna get all of the work done and mocked up(i.e. snorkel, lightbars, larger tires, CB, etc.) and then I will be ready to lay down my digital camo paint scheme. Pics to come as it will be a work in progress. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted May 3, 2012 Share Posted May 3, 2012 I picked up three OEM PCV lines from the dealership. I used heater hose as temporary replacements. The hose that goes to the PCV valve hovever, is such a tight bent that it kinks. I put a hose clamp on there to keep it from collapsing so I will be glad to get the galvanized hose on there. I am still chasing a strange hesitation/misfire/compression issue that happens only when the car is cold. I'll start the SS and try to accelerate, but the transmission won't shift into a higher gear and there is this pop pop sound from the passenger side. After a minute or two it goes away and everything works as it should. I was talking to a knowledgeable guy at the parts dept. at my favorite dealership and he thinks (theoretically) that it may be some sensor/ecu program that when the engine is cold detects the fuel mixture and compensates for a lean or rich composition resulting in my problem. Strange how it goes away. I had a few theories of my own, but I don't think that mine are valid at this point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94legacy22 Posted May 3, 2012 Share Posted May 3, 2012 check alternator output. I was scanning all data one day and their was a bulliten for overcharging when cold. my 94 kinda runs like crap too when cold but its charging at 14.2 volts when cold so its ok. anything over 15 is bad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
USLiberty Posted May 4, 2012 Share Posted May 4, 2012 I picked up a new shell today, a 94 fwd base legacy. my 93 ss was tboned an the unibody was bent. :-( this build will be much better. I got the fwd with a bad rod knock for 500$, straight body, bad paint. This project will include a complete drivetrain swap to my turbo5 spd, phase 1ej20g(ported exhaust manifold, lightweight flywheel,exedy clutch, link plus standalone ems) one thing I noticed is how light the base model is quite light. Should handle amazing with the coilovers, battery moved to the trunk, 17"lgt wheels on. Its going to remain wingless and scoopless until I get some more points back on my license. I had the ems tuned by john at outfrontmotorsports, it was definitely giving sti's a run for their money in the twisties. I'm hoping to end up with under 3000lbs, my last SS was 3340 with me in it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacy Wagon Posted May 4, 2012 Share Posted May 4, 2012 Nice Take a bunch of pictures dude. Also take some of the diff swap for me. I gotta do my rear gasket and if there's an easy way I want to know it You gonna paint it too? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94legacy22 Posted May 4, 2012 Share Posted May 4, 2012 :jedi:check eng light cam on today, pulled codes. 22,24,31,32,35. i'm thinking its the code for the oxygen sensor because it was idleing for like an hour till it came on. I cleared all the codes. i'm gonna see what comes back! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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