linksusmaximus Posted November 17, 2014 Share Posted November 17, 2014 Emotional tolerance - the wheel gap on your passenger side will look noticeably larger than driver side. I've learned to curb my frustration.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwalt Posted November 17, 2014 Share Posted November 17, 2014 Add rear shocks and front struts to the list as it is better to do now than later. You must have some miles on the old struts and shocks, right? Bilstein for upgrade, kyb for oem replacement? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
realrift Posted November 18, 2014 Share Posted November 18, 2014 Add rear shocks and front struts to the list as it is better to do now than later. You must have some miles on the old struts and shocks, right? Bilstein for upgrade, kyb for oem replacement? Yes, thought about shocks but planning to keep the current ones a bit longer, around 90K km on them. The GT comes with Bilstein shocks in Aus, but they are one of the low end models I am told. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TXLegacy Posted November 18, 2014 Share Posted November 18, 2014 Finally, my struts and springs work on my Legacy. I had 2013 springs and 2010 kyb replacements put in. The car rides acceptably now, though I can still hear some groans from the chassis. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s2baru Posted November 27, 2014 Share Posted November 27, 2014 http://www.enjukuracing.com/categories/subaru-impreza-wrx-sti/subaru-impreza-gr-08/suspension/ wasnt sure where to share but a bunch of different optiona for lower control arms all around same cost. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SleeperWagon Posted December 15, 2014 Share Posted December 15, 2014 For those of you with kw's on a "winter" setup would you say they are baby friendly? How do they handle gravel washboard? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brandon.mol Posted December 30, 2014 Share Posted December 30, 2014 So I am finding myself having to get alignments done 2 to 3 times per year and almost every time my right rear toe is way out...like 3 degrees. So I am thinking of replacing either the toe arms or trailing arms with Megan's or white lines, gtspecs, etc. This is solely for the purpose of strengthening things and reducing/eliminating adjustment slip and therefore preventing unintended alignment changes. I have *noticed* very few examples of guys on this forum replacing the trailing arm. Is that because there is no point? Should I assume the toe arm is responsible for my alignment woes? I am contemplating doing the LCA, toe, and trailing links to just be done with it. Thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted December 30, 2014 Share Posted December 30, 2014 (edited) I would replace the trailing arm bushings with Whiteline bushings (rears only, the fronts are pillowball style from the factory on 2012+), get an alignment and see if it changes after a few months. If it does, then replace the toe arms with either OEM or aftermarket and get another alignment. If it changes again then either aftermarket LCAs, or Whiteline bushings on the LCA if you have no need for camber correction, and by then you should no longer have the issue. Step by step to determine the point of issue. Edited December 30, 2014 by GTEASER GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brandon.mol Posted December 30, 2014 Share Posted December 30, 2014 Good advice, thanks. A decent alignment costs 180 to 200 around here and shipping is brutal, so I was thinking maybe I will do trailing arm bushings and toe arms all at once (would cost about the same I think) White lines vs Megan's? I am thinking white lines (125s). So you think its more likely to be trailing arm bushings vs toe arm eccentric bolts? I've read that they are prone to slip. Or just a cheaper diagnostic step? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brandon.mol Posted December 30, 2014 Share Posted December 30, 2014 I've looked high and low and I can't find pu bushings for the rear trailing arm rear location. All I can find are the rear trailing arm front location made by whiteline (WHI W0568). Am I missing something here? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brandon.mol Posted January 1, 2015 Share Posted January 1, 2015 (edited) Screw it. I ordered up a Whiteline aluminium rear LCA, Whiteline adjustable toe arms, and Whiteline adjustable end links. I may or may not need all that but its cool, and that Whiteline LCA is sweet looking. I was going to go with Megan but I got the Whiteline for about the same price once shipping/duty was included...plus its aluminium so should stand up to salt better. Edited January 6, 2015 by brandon.mol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brandon.mol Posted January 10, 2015 Share Posted January 10, 2015 Update. Can't get KCA125 toe arms from whiteline anymore so I went with Megan ones instead, sticking with the purdy Whiteline rear LCA. And I dropped the end links Cuz not-racecar Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brandon.mol Posted January 16, 2015 Share Posted January 16, 2015 Apparently, the Whiteline lower control arms are "still in development and have no set production date" says someone at Whiteline. So I dropped that from my order and may just order the Hardrace ones with rubber bushings. Apparently the Hardrace and Megan parts are identical. One difference though is you can order them from hardrace with hardened rubber bushings instead of pillowbal bearings if you want. The Megan toe arm is really hefty. Much better than I expected. However they don't come with eccentric lock out washers and bolts like the Whiteline ones, so I regret not just buying the more expensive Whiteline ones now. I bought a separate lockout kit to make sure these toe arms don't slip the eccentric bolts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
islandborn Posted January 16, 2015 Share Posted January 16, 2015 I'm running ISC's Lower control arms... they are beautiful. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brandon.mol Posted January 16, 2015 Share Posted January 16, 2015 Yeah. I've considered those, but I am more concerned about pillow ball corrosion and failure than surface rust. The white lines are the best of both worlds. Reality: I don't need to adjust camber at all and it can wait. My primary goal was to lock in my toe which has a habit of slipping. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lgtftw Posted February 16, 2015 Share Posted February 16, 2015 This had to have been answered at some point but I couldn’t find anything on a quick search due to all the variation in search terms but anywho…. Has anyone installed or is currently running coilovers ( I have Megan) with 6F& 5R spring rates? I’m currently running 7F & 6R but would like to go softer. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Gracias! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s2baru Posted February 16, 2015 Share Posted February 16, 2015 My tein street basics are 7f/5r...ride just fine. Most passenger shave no complaints Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lgtftw Posted February 16, 2015 Share Posted February 16, 2015 I’m looking to reduce some of the bounciness of the car, I have the struts at the soften setting but still a little more harsh than I want nowadays. I’m looking into putting these on as well. Not sure what happened but this mod bug is biting again. http://www.meganracing.com/product_detail.asp?prodid=1375&catid=97 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fredrik94087 Posted February 16, 2015 Share Posted February 16, 2015 I’m looking to reduce some of the bounciness of the car, I have the struts at the soften setting but still a little more harsh than I want nowadays. I’m looking into putting these on as well. Not sure what happened but this mod bug is biting again. http://www.meganracing.com/product_detail.asp?prodid=1375&catid=97 If you are bouncy, increase the strut dampening. Dont reduce it. "It's within spec" - SOA "Depth is only shallowness viewed from the side." - Fredism "So, how much did it cost for your car to be undriveable ." - Stephen (very close friend) "You have done so much it would be stupid to go back." - Sunny of Guru Electronics 2018Q50RS | 2015WrxThread | Shrek Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lgtftw Posted February 16, 2015 Share Posted February 16, 2015 Maybe bouncy is not a good way to describe it. Maybe it's just stiffness. It's not bouncy like my Civic in 1999, it's just more NVH than I want. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brandon.mol Posted February 16, 2015 Share Posted February 16, 2015 You mean less...right? +1 on increase dampening. If that doesn't do what you want then softer springs. Especially in the rear. If the rear springs are to stiff relative to the damping, the car will feel like it kicks the rear up violently when hitting bumps/whoops in the road. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lgtftw Posted February 16, 2015 Share Posted February 16, 2015 I’ll try that on my way home. If it doesn’t work, I’m going to go ahead and order the 5k springs for the back and put the 6k in the front. Thanks guys Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gborja888 Posted February 17, 2015 Share Posted February 17, 2015 I’ll try that on my way home. If it doesn’t work, I’m going to go ahead and order the 5k springs for the back and put the 6k in the front. Thanks guys Harshness is not cause by the spring rate. It is cause by how good your damper design to handle bumps. Mine is actually 9kg front and 8kg rear. I've got to experienced 3 coilovers: 1. TEIN Type Flex - 7K F and 6K R 2. Bilstein B14 BSS Kit - 6K F and 5K R 3. Ohlins DFV - 9K F and 8K R The Tein was ok during summer but harsh during winter. It is slightly firmer than OEM at softest settings (summer). At softest settings however it seems to affect handling. My major complaints are it is noisy and not comfortable during winter. The Bilstein is also fine during summer but can become unbearable during winter. Since it is not damping adjustable, it is slightly firmer than the Tein. Note that the spring rate is less than the TEIN. NVH seems to be the same feeling but maybe little firmer for Bilstein. The good thing is it is extremely quiet and great in highway driving. The Ohlins was great even during winter, I still had no experience for full summer season yet since I've just got it last November (before the weather became cold). Up to now, I still haven't set it to the softest settings yet (still have 2 more clicks from softest) but as far comfort is concern and as far as I can remember, it is much more comfortable than my OEM. It was not bouncy and not soft when I make a sharp turn. When I purchased the kit, I was initially thinking why the standard spring rate was so high for this kit, I kept asking myself maybe it will be too stiff for comfort but I was prove wrong. The difference between this and my TEIN in terms of adjustability was night and day. You could feel some difference when you adjust 2-3 clicks whereas for TEIN you don't. Softest to Stiffest was a big difference. So it is not about the spring rate but damper design. My Ohlins seems can handle NVH quite well too. So I doubt it, even when you change the spring rate, you won't feel any difference, not unless you change to a better damper. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fredrik94087 Posted February 17, 2015 Share Posted February 17, 2015 From where are you finding a fitment for the 5th gen Legacy for the bilstein and ohlins. I see inly 4th gen. "It's within spec" - SOA "Depth is only shallowness viewed from the side." - Fredism "So, how much did it cost for your car to be undriveable ." - Stephen (very close friend) "You have done so much it would be stupid to go back." - Sunny of Guru Electronics 2018Q50RS | 2015WrxThread | Shrek Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s2baru Posted February 17, 2015 Share Posted February 17, 2015 http://www.prova.co.jp/products/suspension/ndgcns00000010r4.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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