fredrik94087 Posted May 3, 2014 Share Posted May 3, 2014 definately give it a try before throwing any money at it. Again, please be careful with spirited driving. Muahahahahahaha (Evil Laugh) "It's within spec" - SOA "Depth is only shallowness viewed from the side." - Fredism "So, how much did it cost for your car to be undriveable ." - Stephen (very close friend) "You have done so much it would be stupid to go back." - Sunny of Guru Electronics 2018Q50RS | 2015WrxThread | Shrek Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GravityGear Posted May 3, 2014 Share Posted May 3, 2014 Muahahahahahaha (Evil Laugh) bar can hang out. i just removed my endlinks, the bar is still there. You wouldn't even need to remove the endlinks, just make sure they won't rub or rattle on anything while they are disconnected. DO IT NOW!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m1cha3l Posted May 3, 2014 Share Posted May 3, 2014 Anyone running fortune 500 coil overs? I know somezero is. Anybody else? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrD123 Posted May 4, 2014 Share Posted May 4, 2014 Has anyone measured the spring rate of the 2013/14 springs for the 2.5i? Seen a number of folks claim they were as stiff as this brand or that, but nothing quantitative. Currently debating trying something like those or spending some $ and getting RCE blacks... (I'd rather not drop the car - the RCEs seem to be less than an inch, so that would be ok) I also don't want to trash the stock dampers right away, just want to tighten things up a bit handling-wise. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fredrik94087 Posted May 4, 2014 Share Posted May 4, 2014 Has anyone measured the spring rate of the 2013/14 springs for the 2.5i? Seen a number of folks claim they were as stiff as this brand or that, but nothing quantitative. Currently debating trying something like those or spending some $ and getting RCE blacks... (I'd rather not drop the car - the RCEs seem to be less than an inch, so that would be ok) I also don't want to trash the stock dampers right away, just want to tighten things up a bit handling-wise. I wish I had a good answer for you, but there is no good way to go about stiffening things up with stronger springs and not trashing the stock dampeners. "It's within spec" - SOA "Depth is only shallowness viewed from the side." - Fredism "So, how much did it cost for your car to be undriveable ." - Stephen (very close friend) "You have done so much it would be stupid to go back." - Sunny of Guru Electronics 2018Q50RS | 2015WrxThread | Shrek Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vhtran Posted May 5, 2014 Share Posted May 5, 2014 I just had my Whiteline installed over the weekend to the max setting. My rear became a little stiff more than the front. I may try to soften it down in the middle and see what's up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrD123 Posted May 6, 2014 Share Posted May 6, 2014 I wish I had a good answer for you, but there is no good way to go about stiffening things up with stronger springs and not trashing the stock dampeners. I do understand that an increased spring rate is going to wear out the struts faster - I am looking to tighten things up a little, but don't want to go crazy - the RCE blacks seem to be substantially stiffer (higher rate) than other aftermarket springs, but have an acceptably small drop, but I am curious if there is something out there that's maybe not quite as stiff and won't give a drop at all. Plus, if the 13+ springs are significantly stiffer than the 2010-2012, then they would be free since I have some subarubucks to spend... vs. purchasing RCE blacks. So again - has anyone seen info on the spring rates for the 13+ 2.5i? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted May 6, 2014 Share Posted May 6, 2014 '13 springs are only about 15% stiffer than the earlier 5th gen springs, which is about the same as the Eibachs. RCEs are about 50% stiffer than the early OEM springs. GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hepy117 Posted May 6, 2014 Share Posted May 6, 2014 So the rce's are 50% stiffer but small drop, eibachs are 15% stiffer but offer a little bigger drop? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fredrik94087 Posted May 6, 2014 Share Posted May 6, 2014 So the rce's are 50% stiffer but small drop, eibachs are 15% stiffer but offer a little bigger drop? The Eibach final rate is higher than 15%. Please read the first page of this thread...it has a lot of information. Get any spring you want and then throw konis at it. There, I've said it. I was biting my lip, but I had to say it. In a few months, someone else will ask a spring/shock question, and I will inevitably say it again...and again...and again. I'm sure a few eyes roll every time I say it, but I can't say it enogh because there is NOTHING else out there for us except the Bilsteins. The RCE springs are progressive, but have a more linear feel. Their progressive rate is roughly half of the H&R springs. I don't know how they compare to the Eibachs. "It's within spec" - SOA "Depth is only shallowness viewed from the side." - Fredism "So, how much did it cost for your car to be undriveable ." - Stephen (very close friend) "You have done so much it would be stupid to go back." - Sunny of Guru Electronics 2018Q50RS | 2015WrxThread | Shrek Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RailKill Posted May 6, 2014 Share Posted May 6, 2014 The Eibach final rate is higher than 15%. Please read the first page of this thread...it has a lot of information. Get any spring you want and then throw konis at it. There, I've said it. I was biting my lip, but I had to say it. In a few months, someone else will ask a spring/shock question, and I will inevitably say it again...and again...and again. I'm sure a few eyes roll every time I say it, but I can't say it enogh because there is NOTHING else out there for us except the Bilsteins. The RCE springs are progressive, but have a more linear feel. Their progressive rate is roughly half of the H&R springs. I don't know how they compare to the Eibachs. So these Koni's, you like them? Sent from my VS980 4G using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fredrik94087 Posted May 6, 2014 Share Posted May 6, 2014 So these Koni's, you like them? Sent from my VS980 4G using Tapatalk Meh...I dont know.... "It's within spec" - SOA "Depth is only shallowness viewed from the side." - Fredism "So, how much did it cost for your car to be undriveable ." - Stephen (very close friend) "You have done so much it would be stupid to go back." - Sunny of Guru Electronics 2018Q50RS | 2015WrxThread | Shrek Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted May 6, 2014 Share Posted May 6, 2014 I love them!!! GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reeg420 Posted May 10, 2014 Share Posted May 10, 2014 So I remember hearing that from the factory the drivers side sits lower than the passengers side. Wondering how everybody is adjusting coilovers. To those specs? Or equal both sides? Installing my coilovers tomorrow and my gut says take measurements before and go from there since I like the overall balance of the tein springs. Assuming springs lower equally so it could still be lower on drivers side, not sure.. Just didn't know if leveling sides creates anomalies with suspension travel. Mostly stress on sway bar. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GravityGear Posted May 10, 2014 Share Posted May 10, 2014 So I remember hearing that from the factory the drivers side sits lower than the passengers side. Wondering how everybody is adjusting coilovers. To those specs? Or equal both sides? Installing my coilovers tomorrow and my gut says take measurements before and go from there since I like the overall balance of the tein springs. Assuming springs lower equally so it could still be lower on drivers side, not sure.. Just didn't know if leveling sides creates anomalies with suspension travel. Mostly stress on sway bar. I have some rake front to back. When I'm in the driver seat, the car is even on both sides. My driver side sits a tad higher than the passenger when the car is empty. Thus is the beauty of coilovers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fredrik94087 Posted May 10, 2014 Share Posted May 10, 2014 So I remember hearing that from the factory the drivers side sits lower than the passengers side. Wondering how everybody is adjusting coilovers. To those specs? Or equal both sides? Installing my coilovers tomorrow and my gut says take measurements before and go from there since I like the overall balance of the tein springs. Assuming springs lower equally so it could still be lower on drivers side, not sure.. Just didn't know if leveling sides creates anomalies with suspension travel. Mostly stress on sway bar. Without a great shop, I would even out the R/L because it would drive me nuts as it did with my 2.5i or compensate for my weight. Since the shop close to my work has the resources, they corner balanced it with 150# in the drivers seat.. Now, the R/L is not even, but I know there is a good reason for it. And, I doubt the R/L would have been even without the 150# in the drivers seat. If I get a chance and remember to do so, I will pull into the garage and take some measurements later today. "It's within spec" - SOA "Depth is only shallowness viewed from the side." - Fredism "So, how much did it cost for your car to be undriveable ." - Stephen (very close friend) "You have done so much it would be stupid to go back." - Sunny of Guru Electronics 2018Q50RS | 2015WrxThread | Shrek Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fredrik94087 Posted May 10, 2014 Share Posted May 10, 2014 Measurements FL 25 7/8 FR 25 3/4 RL 26 3/8 RR 26 3/8 Looks like with my 340# springs and corner balanced with 150# in drivers seat only front left was higher by 1/8 while rears were about the same. The 1/8 difference was something measurable. If rears are off by 1/4 turn I can't measure it. "It's within spec" - SOA "Depth is only shallowness viewed from the side." - Fredism "So, how much did it cost for your car to be undriveable ." - Stephen (very close friend) "You have done so much it would be stupid to go back." - Sunny of Guru Electronics 2018Q50RS | 2015WrxThread | Shrek Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reeg420 Posted May 11, 2014 Share Posted May 11, 2014 Thanks Gravity and Fred. Totally forgot to check this thread before I installed and adjusted everything. Oh well maybe Ill have my buddy take measurements with me in the drivers seat later. If the car dips alot I'll readjust before my alignment Monday. Current measurements Front 26 1/8" Rear 26 1/4" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ncfree Posted May 16, 2014 Share Posted May 16, 2014 (edited) my new koni yellow setup. thought gteaser might like this one. Edited May 16, 2014 by ncfree Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted May 16, 2014 Share Posted May 16, 2014 Upper control arm and hub completely ripped off that car. GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feesh Posted May 24, 2014 Share Posted May 24, 2014 FYI, the rear sway bars on the 2015 wrx and STI are 20mm. This is a better option IMO than the previous STI 19mm bar for those wanting to upgrade but still stay stock-ish. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
awddavid Posted May 27, 2014 Share Posted May 27, 2014 FYI, the rear sway bars on the 2015 wrx and STI are 20mm. This is a better option IMO than the previous STI 19mm bar for those wanting to upgrade but still stay stock-ish. Hmm, I'd be interested in doing this for my Outback. Been reading that with a 26mm front sway bar, something thicker than the 19mm rear sway bar (e.g. Whiteline 22mm) does a better job of making the car neutral. Any idea what the part numbers are? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nstg8r Posted May 27, 2014 Share Posted May 27, 2014 Question for the suspension gurus out there; When I 1st put in my STi strut tower brace, it said to replace the locking nuts with the 6 new ones that were supplied. I've also read in the Subaru strut removal guide, to replace the nuts with new ones when replacing the struts. I just recently removed the STi bar and replaced it with the Cusco one, however, I re-used the nuts since Cusco didn't supply new ones. I know it says to use new ones, but how necessary are they? Could I get away with using the old ones and using some Loctite on them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted May 27, 2014 Share Posted May 27, 2014 Yes, you should be fine, I have reused mine 2-3 times now. Torque to 14 lbs. GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
testa422 Posted May 28, 2014 Share Posted May 28, 2014 (edited) another question for the suspension gurus...looking to get some new lower control arms to help out with camber. any suggestions as to a good brand? ive seen the cusco ones and some godspeed ones but thats all so far. thanks Edited May 28, 2014 by testa422 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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