Brent C Posted April 16, 2014 Share Posted April 16, 2014 That's just a rubber sleeve that goes around the coil. it will get tore up eventually and doesn't actually address the issue at hand, but merely makes it so that you can't hear it happening anymore. The thrust sheets are a more permanent solution to your issue. the sheets actually allow the springs to rotate slightly on the perches. They eliminate any binding and in turn eliminate the noise. all the silencers do is silence the noise. Perfect man, do they just sit right on top of the spring perch then?? Also, any idea what size I might need? Thanks so much for your help btw! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GravityGear Posted April 16, 2014 Share Posted April 16, 2014 (edited) Perfect man, do they just sit right on top of the spring perch then?? Also, any idea what size I might need? Thanks so much for your help btw! there are 3 pieces to each side. 2 aluminum sheets and a polycarbonate sheet. sandwich the polycarbonate between the aluminum then you put them on at the top and bottom of the springs. TAKE THE FACTORY SHEETS OFF. The only things on there should be those thrust sheets. If you leave any of the factory sheets you will have this same problem again later. You will have 1 set for each strut which does the top and bottom. I am currently running 4 sets of these on my coilovers just to make sure I don't get any spring bind. You may or may not need them on the rear, but i got them just in case. I would start with the front, then find out if you need to do the rear. As far a size, i'm not sure what size those tein springs are. i have 60mm swifts, so I have the 60mm thrust sheets. the size may be printed on the spring. Look around and see if it's still visible. if not, a tein dealer may have that information for you. while it's all apart, you should consider an upgrade to swift springs. Edited April 16, 2014 by GravityGear Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
afrascione Posted April 16, 2014 Share Posted April 16, 2014 does $315 install + $125 alignment to install eibach springs sound reasonable. don't forget the cost of the springs $225. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RailKill Posted April 16, 2014 Share Posted April 16, 2014 I was quoted $200 for the install and $90 for alignment. This was a while ago but I wouldn't think its changed that much Sent from my LG G2 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RailKill Posted April 16, 2014 Share Posted April 16, 2014 http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/17/avuna8y8.jpg Should I be concerned with the camber on the right front and right rear? The guy who was doing the alignment talked to me before he took the car off the alignment machine and said he couldn't get it any better than that. Also, could someone please share with me what I would have to buy in order to get a camber adjustment for the rear? Sent from my LG G2 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted April 16, 2014 Share Posted April 16, 2014 (edited) The cheapest options are either this. http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_detail4.php?part_number=KCA326 Or this. http://www.mann-engineering.com/products/powerflex-adjustable-camber-rear-arm-bushings-rear and this. http://www.mann-engineering.com/products/powerflex-adjustable-camber-rear-arm-bushings-front Or full on adjustable LCA's, but those will run you $350-$500 I would take it to another alignment shop. Something is wrong with their rig. There shouldn't be that much discrepency between left and right with just lowering springs. Both fronts and both rears should be within a few tenths of a degree. My rears are both at -2.2 with H&R springs and I am only .3" lower than you so your rears should both be around -1.7. Edited April 17, 2014 by GTEASER GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RailKill Posted April 17, 2014 Share Posted April 17, 2014 It is a big difference from one side to the other. Should I be concerned with that in regards to tire wear? I drove the car about ten miles after the alignment and it felt pretty good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fredrik94087 Posted April 17, 2014 Share Posted April 17, 2014 (edited) http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/17/avuna8y8.jpg Should I be concerned with the camber on the right front and right rear? The guy who was doing the alignment talked to me before he took the car off the alignment machine and said he couldn't get it any better than that. Also, could someone please share with me what I would have to buy in order to get a camber adjustment for the rear? Sent from my LG G2 using Tapatalk I call BS on the front right. The camber can be adjusted. For the rear, I got the cusco adjustable LCA's. There are bolts as well, I believe from Whiteline for rear adjustment. I am not a fan of Mann. If you want to know the story, read here in my March 3, 2014 edit: http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4727045&postcount=1 The fronts should not be having an issue. The rears may have a difference of up to 0.5 degrees (mine after RCE springs), but you have way too much difference. Make sure the springs are sitting all the way down in the perch. The perch has a groove. Check with your finger to feel if there is a gap between the bottom tip of the spring coil and the end of the groove on the perch. Edited April 17, 2014 by fredrik94087 "It's within spec" - SOA "Depth is only shallowness viewed from the side." - Fredism "So, how much did it cost for your car to be undriveable ." - Stephen (very close friend) "You have done so much it would be stupid to go back." - Sunny of Guru Electronics 2018Q50RS | 2015WrxThread | Shrek Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RailKill Posted April 17, 2014 Share Posted April 17, 2014 Is it possible that he didn't do anything to change camber on the fronts at all? I'm wondering if he was trying to turn the wrong bolt because he said he was turning it and nothing was happening. Maybe he was turning the bottom bolt instead of the top which is the cam bolt? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RailKill Posted April 17, 2014 Share Posted April 17, 2014 Another thing......let's say that I f'ed up and put the rear strut in wrong, like I spun it 180 degrees. Would that make a big difference? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minuccims Posted April 17, 2014 Share Posted April 17, 2014 Nope, Several of us with Whiteline 22mm RSB and Kartboy endlinks are rotated 180 degrees so the endlinks clear the perch. Mod on .... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted April 17, 2014 Share Posted April 17, 2014 Take it to another shop Chris. Have them fix it and take the printout to the first shop and ask for your money back. GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RailKill Posted April 17, 2014 Share Posted April 17, 2014 Take it to another shop Chris. Have them fix it and take the printout to the first shop and ask for your money back. I hate to have to do that but I guess it is what it is. Sent from my LG G2 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ncfree Posted April 17, 2014 Share Posted April 17, 2014 http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/17/avuna8y8.jpg Should I be concerned with the camber on the right front and right rear? The guy who was doing the alignment talked to me before he took the car off the alignment machine and said he couldn't get it any better than that. Also, could someone please share with me what I would have to buy in order to get a camber adjustment for the rear? Sent from my LG G2 using Tapatalk That's gonna start to give you some mid match tire wear. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ncfree Posted April 17, 2014 Share Posted April 17, 2014 I'm at -2.0 left and right and I haven't had a tire wear problem but at -2.7 you may. Especially at 0 on the other. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clean13 Posted April 17, 2014 Share Posted April 17, 2014 I was looking into getting the whiteline bushings to correct my camber wear but all the reviews say the same thing, that theyre a pain in the ass to change out. Has anyone ever used them? I still need to measure my camber to make sure they're even going to change it enough or else ill have to go the route of adjustable lca's. I'm just worried about spending 500 on a set and them not making it through a new england winter like most aftermarket parts that rust out in a year or 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fredrik94087 Posted April 17, 2014 Share Posted April 17, 2014 (edited) I was looking into getting the whiteline bushings to correct my camber wear but all the reviews say the same thing' date=' that theyre a pain in the ass to change out. Has anyone ever used them? I still need to measure my camber to make sure they're even going to change it enough or else ill have to go the route of adjustable lca's. I'm just worried about spending 500 on a set and them not making it through a new england winter like most aftermarket parts that rust out in a year or 2[/quote'] I think the cusco LCA's are heavy guage aluminum...could be wrong. Edit: Just checked...steel. But they are painted. Edited April 17, 2014 by fredrik94087 "It's within spec" - SOA "Depth is only shallowness viewed from the side." - Fredism "So, how much did it cost for your car to be undriveable ." - Stephen (very close friend) "You have done so much it would be stupid to go back." - Sunny of Guru Electronics 2018Q50RS | 2015WrxThread | Shrek Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RailKill Posted April 17, 2014 Share Posted April 17, 2014 I spoke with the shop this morning and kindly told him that I know the front can be adjusted. He guarantees his work and told me to bring it back down tomorrow. I'm going to take the rear out today and see if I somehow installed it wrong. Sent from my LG G2 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Perscitus Posted April 17, 2014 Share Posted April 17, 2014 ncfree/ Fredrik - on the topic of alignments, I recently had my done again just in time for Spring and wanted to ask you for some advice. Toe all Around 0.00 Front Camber L/R -1.4 Rear Camber L/R -1.8 Given that I'm on the RCE Blacks / Bilstein combo with 17mm spacers, I prefer a bit of negative camber (as per Myles and a few guys on here), but would you recommend I do something about the rear camber or safe to run like this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted April 17, 2014 Share Posted April 17, 2014 I was looking into getting the whiteline bushings to correct my camber wear but all the reviews say the same thing' date=' that theyre a pain in the ass to change out. Has anyone ever used them? I still need to measure my camber to make sure they're even going to change it enough or else ill have to go the route of adjustable lca's. I'm just worried about spending 500 on a set and them not making it through a new england winter like most aftermarket parts that rust out in a year or 2[/quote'] Whiteline and Agency Power make billet aluminum LCAs. GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fredrik94087 Posted April 17, 2014 Share Posted April 17, 2014 ncfree/ Fredrik - on the topic of alignments, I recently had my done again just in time for Spring and wanted to ask you for some advice. Toe all Around 0.00 Front Camber L/R -1.4 Rear Camber L/R -1.8 Given that I'm on the RCE Blacks / Bilstein combo with 17mm spacers, I prefer a bit of negative camber (as per Myles and a few guys on here), but would you recommend I do something about the rear camber or safe to run like this? I don't see any issue with -1.8. Maybe slightly more wear than mine. I'm at -1.7 front and -1.3 in rear. How does your car feel balance wise? I have mine set up this way to be neutral to slight oversteer. But, my ride height in each corner is different than yours so it is not apples to apples. "It's within spec" - SOA "Depth is only shallowness viewed from the side." - Fredism "So, how much did it cost for your car to be undriveable ." - Stephen (very close friend) "You have done so much it would be stupid to go back." - Sunny of Guru Electronics 2018Q50RS | 2015WrxThread | Shrek Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Perscitus Posted April 17, 2014 Share Posted April 17, 2014 Thanks Fredrik. Feels good, I've yet to put it anywhere near the limit with the new settings dialed-in. I'll give it a spin in some twisties this weekend and report back. Should I dial-in more negative camber in the front to balance out the back? Say -1.5 or -1.6 front and -1.8 back? I have stock-size LGT rims/wheels just pushed out to an effective offset of +31 so away from the perch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fredrik94087 Posted April 17, 2014 Share Posted April 17, 2014 Thanks Fredrik. Feels good, I've yet to put it anywhere near the limit with the new settings dialed-in. I'll give it a spin in some twisties this weekend and report back. Should I dial-in more negative camber in the front to balance out the back? Say -1.5 or -1.6 front and -1.8 back? I have stock-size LGT rims/wheels just pushed out to an effective offset of +31 so away from the perch. If I couldn't dial back the negative camber in the rear, I'd get a fatter anti-sway bar and/on the rear or get more negative in the front. The ideal fix would be to reduce the negative camber in the rear. However, our balance, grip, and weight transfer for F/R is slightly different. I'm slightly lower with a small rake, my springs are 340#, and I'm running 275 tires. For this setup, my -1.7 in the front and -1.3 in the rear with a 26mm RSB up front and the whiteline 22mm RSB set at "stiff" seems to work for me. You're just gonna have to slowly and carefully find that limit and then decide how to dial it in (if it isn't already). Cheers! "It's within spec" - SOA "Depth is only shallowness viewed from the side." - Fredism "So, how much did it cost for your car to be undriveable ." - Stephen (very close friend) "You have done so much it would be stupid to go back." - Sunny of Guru Electronics 2018Q50RS | 2015WrxThread | Shrek Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RailKill Posted April 17, 2014 Share Posted April 17, 2014 Just dropped the car off at the shop. The owner called me and told me he could fit me in today. I found that the rear passenger side spring wasn't sitting perfectly in the strut. I had to take it off and readjust it. Fingers crossed Sent from my LG G2 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fredrik94087 Posted April 17, 2014 Share Posted April 17, 2014 Just dropped the car off at the shop. The owner called me and told me he could fit me in today. I found that the rear passenger side spring wasn't sitting perfectly in the strut. I had to take it off and readjust it. Fingers crossed Sent from my LG G2 using Tapatalk What about the front right? "It's within spec" - SOA "Depth is only shallowness viewed from the side." - Fredism "So, how much did it cost for your car to be undriveable ." - Stephen (very close friend) "You have done so much it would be stupid to go back." - Sunny of Guru Electronics 2018Q50RS | 2015WrxThread | Shrek Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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