Official 5th Generation Suspension Thread

[NVSUBIE]

I'm running Eibach Pro Kit springs on stock '14 struts and I'm completely satisfied with the ride. They aren't any more or less stiff than stock springs but tighten up the handling feel. They lowered my car 1" all around. They can be bought for around $200 for the set.

 

Oh yeah, and they are wife approved!

 

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Which spring did you order from eibach I know you said the pro but do you have a part number?

when I contacted eibach they did not have a spring for a 2013

thanks

[RailKill]

They don't list it for the '13 or '14 but I used the same spring as the '10-'12, # 7722.140. I think since Subaru changed the suspension a little for '13+, Eibach won't list it for those years until they test it but mine fit perfectly.

 

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[m1cha3l]

Looking for opinions. I have a little too much bounce with my RCE's and stock struts (particularly in the rear) so I'm looking for a new damper setup. I understand that any 2008 wrx coilover will fit our cars, correct? If that's the case, if you were to choose between Koni Yellows with RCE or H&R springs or KW V1's, which would you choose? I don't necessarily need adjustability if the ride is good out of the box. This will be street use only. Are there other better options i should look at? My price point is 1k - 1.5k.

 

Rce springs and bilsteins will bounce too. Thats what I have.

[fredrik94087]

Rce springs and bilsteins will bounce too. Thats what I have.

 

Konis will not bounce.

[GravityGear]

i'm wondering if anyone would like to buy my 4150 shock bodies from me. i'm considering getting some JRZ RS1s.

[feesh]

I might be interested. I take it that you would be getting rid of them without springs? What rate springs are you currently using? PM me if you want.

 

edit: Just looked into the JRZ RS1. They sound AMAZING.

Edited May 2, 2014 by feesh

[GTEASER]

He's currently running 10kg all the way around, I think.

[GravityGear]

i'm actually running 9k/10k with higher dampening in the rear and have had my rear sway bar disconnected for a couple of weeks. I may just get rid of it all together at this point. It feels amazing. For the nay sayers...

 

 

 

Yes, if I decide to sell these, I will be keeping the mains, helpers and thrust sheets.

 

Feesh - glad you are looking into higher quality suspension components.

 

Teaser - what are you running now? i don't remember.

[fredrik94087]

i'm actually running 9k/10k with higher dampening in the rear and have had my rear sway bar disconnected for a couple of weeks. I may just get rid of it all together at this point. It feels amazing. For the nay sayers...

 

 

 

Yes, if I decide to sell these, I will be keeping the mains, helpers and thrust sheets.

 

Feesh - glad you are looking into higher quality suspension components.

 

Teaser - what are you running now? i don't remember.

 

I wonder if 340# springs and twin-tube shocks are enough for me to de-couple the anti-sway bars?

[GTEASER]

Im running H&R springs with Koni Yellows. I love them for a standard strut/shock setup.

[GravityGear]

I wonder if 340# springs and twin-tube shocks are enough for me to de-couple the anti-sway bars?

 

I'm not sure you have enough dampening and rate, but the only way to find out is to try. Don't go crazy though as removing the rear bar changes the handling a fair amount.

 

Teaser- ah thats right. Thats a solid combo.

[GTEASER]

With my setup, I for sure won't be disconnecting any sway bars.

 

But that video you posted was very informative, Thanks GG!!!

[fredrik94087]

I'm not sure you have enough dampening and rate, but the only way to find out is to try. Don't go crazy though as removing the rear bar changes the handling a fair amount.

 

Teaser- ah thats right. Thats a solid combo.

 

Not having an RSB F/R is not a new thing. I saw the McLaren 12C on top gear.

 

Here is a link with pics. Not having a double-wishbone setup, I don't know if it is a good idea to de-couple the RSB's, and better yet, what spring rate would justify doing so?

 

http://www.edmunds.com/car-reviews/track-tests/2012-mclaren-mp4-12c-suspension-walkaround.html

[GTEASER]

That's some freaking gorgeous engineering.

[fredrik94087]

That's some freaking gorgeous engineering.

 

You should have seen how stable it was on the left turn where all the cars drop the left rear wheel off the tarmac and get a bounce. The car didn't budge. Only the left rear wheel went up.

[GravityGear]

Not having an RSB F/R is not a new thing. I saw the McLaren 12C on top gear.

 

Here is a link with pics. Not having a double-wishbone setup, I don't know if it is a good idea to de-couple the RSB's, and better yet, what spring rate would justify doing so?

 

http://www.edmunds.com/car-reviews/track-tests/2012-mclaren-mp4-12c-suspension-walkaround.html

 

Cars like that use electronics, suspension geometry and chassis design to achieve roll stiffness.

 

For me, deciding on disconnecting the bar came from doing autox events.

 

It's not just about rate, it's also about the dampening. I feel that if your suspension can effectively keep your wheels tracking the ground AND you have enough rate to control the roll, disconnect the thing. Dampening is my concern with twin tube dampers. When they return to neutral from compression or rebound, the curves do not simply reverse themselves, they will travel a different path than the one that got them there. This is caused by the delay in the movement of the fluid from one chamber to the other. This can cause that unsettled feeling where the car does not seem ready for the next turn/bump/whatever because it's still recovering from the previous one.

[fredrik94087]

Cars like that use electronics, suspension geometry and chassis design to achieve roll stiffness.

 

For me, deciding on disconnecting the bar came from doing autox events.

 

It's not just about rate, it's also about the dampening. I feel that if your suspension can effectively keep your wheels tracking the ground AND you have enough rate to control the roll, disconnect the thing. Dampening is my concern with twin tube dampers. When they return to neutral from compression or rebound, the curves do not simply reverse themselves, they will travel a different path than the one that got them there. This is caused by the delay in the movement of the fluid from one chamber to the other. This can cause that unsettled feeling where the car does not seem ready for the next turn/bump/whatever because it's still recovering from the previous one.

 

Are you suggestung if I had monotube coilovers with at least 350# spring rate I should he okay to decouple.

 

I can even go with tein flex. I have to check, but I believe they are monotube and I sbould be able to get higher rate springs.

 

Thoughts?

[GTEASER]

^^I knew you were gonna ask that.

[fredrik94087]

^^I knew you were gonna ask that.

 

You know where all this is going, right?....

 

If it ends up being konis again, I'll have to get spacers and pull those fenders some more!

[GTEASER]

According to Ground Control, the Konis can handle up to a 9kg spring. and almost a 10kg.

 

And no need to mess with spacers or fenders. Once the spring collars are on the stock struts, you could cut the perch off.

Edited May 2, 2014 by GTEASER

[GravityGear]

Are you suggestung if I had monotube coilovers with at least 350# spring rate I should he okay to decouple.

 

I can even go with tein flex. I have to check, but I believe they are monotube and I sbould be able to get higher rate springs.

 

Thoughts?

 

I'm not saying that you have to go monotube, you just need something with a high quality dampening. V3/T2 are twin-tube. Although they are twin-tube, they are a very good twin-tube which reduces (but not eliminates) the hysteresis. You need something that will reset the car into a neutral state as quickly as possible. Without this, any lean/roll you do encounter during a turn may make the car unstable upon exit due to inadequate dampening. The monotube will make your ride firmer due to how the monotube works and it's inherant bottom out resistance.

 

I like the flex actually. It's a good basic monotube shock. My only complaint about anything tein is the lack of suspension travel. it will ride harsher due to that.

 

What are you on now Fred (sorry, can't keep up with everyone's suspension setup)?

 

Edit: Rate is a personal preference. When I say rate controls the roll stiffness, control is an abstract idea. Some people like flatter, some like more compliance. But if you disconnect the rear bar, you will need higher rates than what you have now to have the roll and turning charactaristics you have now. With no rear bar, the car will push more... but that just means more trailbraking.

Edited May 2, 2014 by GravityGear

[fredrik94087]

I'm not saying that you have to go monotube, you just need something with a high quality dampening. V3/T2 are twin-tube. Although they are twin-tube, they are a very good twin-tube which reduces (but not eliminates) the hysteresis. You need something that will reset the car into a neutral state as quickly as possible. Without this, any lean/roll you do encounter during a turn may make the car unstable upon exit due to inadequate dampening. The monotube will make your ride firmer due to how the monotube works and it's inherant bottom out resistance.

 

I like the flex actually. It's a good basic monotube shock. My only complaint about anything tein is the lack of suspension travel. it will ride harsher due to that.

 

What are you on now Fred (sorry, can't keep up with everyone's suspension setup)?

 

Edit: Rate is a personal preference. When I say rate controls the roll stiffness, control is an abstract idea. Some people like flatter, some like more compliance. But if you disconnect the rear bar, you will need higher rates than what you have now to have the roll and turning charactaristics you have now. With no rear bar, the car will push more... but that just means more trailbraking.

 

Tarmac Zero with 340# springs all around. Or, a KW V1 for all intents and purposes.

[GravityGear]

Tarmac Zero with 340# springs all around. Or, a KW V1 for all intents and purposes.

 

those will be fine, i would bump your rear up to 400# or 450# rears to get a similar roll stiffness and to reduce the push.

[fredrik94087]

those will be fine, i would bump your rear up to 400# or 450# rears to get a similar roll stiffness and to reduce the push.

 

Okay...there was an option at time of purchase to have stiffer springs. Maybe I can get one set just for the rear.

 

I suppose first thing is to just undo the end-links and see what happens. I think the anti-sway bars can just hang there.

 

Maybe next week...for a trial.

[GravityGear]

Okay...there was an option at time of purchase to have stiffer springs. Maybe I can get one set just for the rear.

 

I suppose first thing is to just undo the end-links and see what happens. I think the anti-sway bars can just hang there.

 

Maybe next week...for a trial.

 

definately give it a try before throwing any money at it. Again, please be careful with spirited driving.