M. Schneider Posted April 18, 2013 Share Posted April 18, 2013 Snap-On Tools .... I hear that. The quality is top shelf, no question. I have a few of their specialty wrench's and a killer ratchet screw driver. "You can pay me now... Or you can pay me later" Like with most things, You get what you pay for. There's a professional tech at the Porsche shop I use - man that dude has the Snap-On lot at his disposal; the red Snap-On cabinets he owns are 3 teirs tall.. If I had a million dollars......... If you wrench on your car often, I highly recommend you get in touch with a local Snap-On or Matco franchisee. Their tools are a lot more expensive but the quality can not be matched. Cheers, Mike |`94 E-Class Coupe |`98 Carrera 993 C2S |`14 Cayman S |`20 Outback Touring XT | All Debadged | Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
08SpecB_DE Posted April 18, 2013 Share Posted April 18, 2013 http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=imao See it works, LOL except I used a L M. Schneider- I do not have enough room in my bay for a huge tool box but I look at it like this, the tools make me money not the box. I have a 2 teir 40" Craftsman ball bearing box and a Craftsman tool cart which I barely use. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M. Schneider Posted April 18, 2013 Share Posted April 18, 2013 The huge 3 tier tall Snap-On cabinets ,,,, are full with Snap-On tools I'd imagine. Its an orderly collection of professional tools. Impressive. My 30 year collection, largely of Craftsmen tools, has served me well - but I'm no proffesional wrench. Cheers, Mike M. Schneider- I do not have enough room in my bay for a huge tool box but I look at it like this, the tools make me money not the box. I have a 2 teir 40" Craftsman ball bearing box and a Craftsman tool cart which I barely use. Cheers, Mike |`94 E-Class Coupe |`98 Carrera 993 C2S |`14 Cayman S |`20 Outback Touring XT | All Debadged | Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted April 18, 2013 Share Posted April 18, 2013 except I used a L LMAO, good one I have mainly craftsman tools too. In a number of different tool boxes at my house and my son's. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
08SpecB_DE Posted April 18, 2013 Share Posted April 18, 2013 Do not get me wrong, I own and use Craftsman sockets and some wrenches all day long. Craftsman makes the best (imo) impact sockets. I picked up a 50 piece 1/2" set for around $150.....my 5 piece Snap-On axle nut impact socket set ran me over $300. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the kev master Posted December 10, 2013 Share Posted December 10, 2013 I'm curious about the differences in quality and durability of the SKF over the OEM ones. I've heard owners have issues with the bearings going out pretty quick so I was wondering if they SKF ones have superior life over the OEM ones. Appreciate the feedback. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evil03mustang Posted December 10, 2013 Share Posted December 10, 2013 I have a friend with an LGT and he's replaced his rears with the cheap ones only to have them go bad quickly.. the Moog units are holding up so far. Are those made by Timken or SKF? I have no idea. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JmP6889928 Posted December 10, 2013 Share Posted December 10, 2013 I believe that NTN is the OE supplier for Subaru HBA. Timken, SKF, BCA, Beck/Arnley (OE Reboxed), NSK, or FAG are all excellent choices. ANY "house brand" or usually anything with the word "precision" in it is NOT a good choice and usually Chinese manufactured. Not everything manufactured in China is bad, but in this case, it appears that they seem to not be able to make the ABS rings correctly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the kev master Posted December 11, 2013 Share Posted December 11, 2013 Timken, SKF, BCA, Beck/Arnley (OE Reboxed), NSK, or FAG So where would be the cheapest place to buy one of these? Given that they are notorious for going back according to Impreza owners, I'd like to keep at least one front and rear handy. The last rear I kept handy got used as a bent wheel caused premature wear on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JmP6889928 Posted December 11, 2013 Share Posted December 11, 2013 So where would be the cheapest place to buy one of these? Given that they are notorious for going back according to Impreza owners, I'd like to keep at least one front and rear handy. The last rear I kept handy got used as a bent wheel caused premature wear on it. Many auto parts stores carry Timken, BCA, and SKF. I believe Autozone has Timken as one of their options on their lookup screen. Google them for your area and I'm sure you'll find several options for them. Most of the others are difficult to find except for possibly Beck/Arnley. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HAMMER DOWN Posted December 11, 2013 Share Posted December 11, 2013 I get SKF at NAPA Mileage:331487 Retired/Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted December 11, 2013 Share Posted December 11, 2013 Here's a link to my local NAPA with prices. http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Result.aspx/Subaru-Legacy-2005/_/Ntt-wheel%20bearing/Ntk-Keyword/Nty-1/N-599001%20102005%2050068%202068008%204294914969/Ne-1000000 I think my OEM front was $129.00 with tax. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjtjp Posted May 5, 2014 Share Posted May 5, 2014 Sorry to resurrect, but many people come to this thread for information on Rear wheel bearing removal so I figured having my question answered here would be best. Why does the manual say that loosening the axle nut with the wheels still on will damage the bearing? I just can't understand how this is physically/mechanically possible. I always thought that was what you should do, so that you don't have to find another way to stop the wheel from spinning while using your breaker bar. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 5, 2014 Share Posted May 5, 2014 If you've ever tryed to remove the nut with the car jacked up in your driveway, you'll understand why we do it with the car on the ground. Don't believe everything you read in the manual. Your not removing it, just moving it maybe a 1/3 of a turn. Your not going to hurt anything. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
007Legacy Posted May 5, 2014 Share Posted May 5, 2014 Somewhere there was a thread discussing wheel bearings. I finally got off my butt this weekend and replaced the driver's side rear wheel bearing with that 45.$ Chinese made unit. Everything worked just as it should. NO ABS issue's at all. Installed fine with no glitches. (where did that thread go?) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjtjp Posted May 5, 2014 Share Posted May 5, 2014 If you've ever tryed to remove the nut with the car jacked up in your driveway, you'll understand why we do it with the car on the ground. Don't believe everything you read in the manual. Your not removing it, just moving it maybe a 1/3 of a turn. Your not going to hurt anything. That's how I've always done it. By partially jacking the car up, then breaking torque, then jack the rest of the way. I was asking where they heck they get the warning from. In fact, I think for one of my cars the manual said to loosen the axle nut while on the ground. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 5, 2014 Share Posted May 5, 2014 Most likely because some people might back the nut all the way off not realizing what could happen. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted January 31, 2015 Share Posted January 31, 2015 So when the rear wheel bearing went out how did it go and how did the car feel? I think I just had this happen to me tonight in the 3rd lane doing 80.. I got a loud rubbing sound then the ass of the car started to oscillate side to side then my ABS light came on Sounds loudest on the rear passenger side.. but damn I just got my car up and running after 5 weeks of not being able to drive it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted January 31, 2015 Share Posted January 31, 2015 Oh well I ended ordering from amazon the timken one it will be here on Sunday Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted January 31, 2015 Share Posted January 31, 2015 Question.. what is the axle nut size and what was the ft. lbs the axle nut needs to be tighten to? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HAMMER DOWN Posted January 31, 2015 Share Posted January 31, 2015 IIRC 1-1/4" socket Rear axle nut 142ft.lbs. Mileage:331487 Retired/Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted January 31, 2015 Share Posted January 31, 2015 I've heard so many different numbers for the axle nut like 177 ft.lbs Do you know the bolt size in the back of the shield that holds the bearing in? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HAMMER DOWN Posted January 31, 2015 Share Posted January 31, 2015 14mm. for WB bolts (48ft.lbs) , Rear caliper bracket(39ft.lbs) & caliper bolts(20ft.lbs) . Haynes Manual 2005 LGT Front axle nut is 162 ft.lbs Rear axle nut is 140 ft.lbs 2006 LGT Front axle nut is 162 ft.lbs Rear axle nut is 177 ft.lbs But, ALLDATA states, 2005 LGT Front axle nut is 162 ft.lbs Rear axle nut is 177 ft.lbs I just did my rear WB & tq. to 140ft.lbs. Mileage:331487 Retired/Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted January 31, 2015 Share Posted January 31, 2015 14mm. for WB bolts (48ft.lbs) , Rear caliper bracket(39ft.lbs) & caliper bolts(20ft.lbs) . Haynes Manual 2005 LGT Front axle nut is 162 ft.lbs Rear axle nut is 140 ft.lbs 2006 LGT Front axle nut is 162 ft.lbs Rear axle nut is 177 ft.lbs But, ALLDATA states, 2005 LGT Front axle nut is 162 ft.lbs Rear axle nut is 177 ft.lbs I just did my rear WB & tq. to 140ft.lbs. Yeah I heard the 177 and I heard as high as 180, the 140 is new to me but I mean it's not a problem but my tq wrench stops at 150 ft.lbs LOL ugh I had to do the wheel hub on a ford focus wagon with the stupid ABS magnetic ring that pushes on the rotor.. I had to buy my first torque stick for that I think it's 170 or 180 rated Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted February 1, 2015 Share Posted February 1, 2015 This is the DIY Walk-Through for the 4th Gen Legacy rear HBAs that I did in July 2012 with OEM Replacements... P/N: 28473AG00B. One of the rears was starting to growl slightly, and since I was doing one, I figured that I'd just do both. PDF version is found in Post #5. Per the FSM some cautions on deinstall: CAUTION: REMOVE THE WHEEL BEFORE LOOSENING THE AXLE NUT. FAILURE TO FOLLOW THIS PROCEDURE CAN DAMAGE THE WHEEL BEARINGS, WHICH MAY MAKE IT DIFFICULT TO GET THE HBA OFF THE AXLE SHAFT. Also, per the FSM, some cautions on reinstall: CAUTION: DO NOT PUT ANY WEIGHT (WHEEL OR VEHICLE) ON THE HBA UNTIL THE AXLE NUT IS PROPERLY TORQUED OR DAMAGE TO THE BEARINGS WILL OCCUR. Torque setting for the axle nut, per the FSM, is: 177 ft-lbs. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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