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Replacing Rear Wheel Bearing


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Both my rears are Moog, they are fine. You can't use Moog on the fronts, I had to use OEM to not get a surging in CC.

 

Mine throws the light atleast once a day. I thought about changing out the sensor to see if that would help, but I'll try a Subaru bearing first, although the sensor would be much easier.

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What shop did you go to? I work at Henry's Car Care Center.

A dude that I've gone to over on 273 Just before the PepBoys; but only for minor stuff. Wouldn't let him ( in the past) deal with items specific to Subaru's. Usually I go to Satoru, (Dan) in Elkton, but he's usually booked up. IAG isn't bad, but sometimes I'm on a budget.

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Mine throws the light atleast once a day. I thought about changing out the sensor to see if that would help, but I'll try a Subaru bearing first, although the sensor would be much easier.

 

 

In the DIY you'll see my problems with Moog fronts. When I put the old bad hub back in the car worked fine. I picked up a OEM that evening and changed it out in less then 35 minutes with the test drive.

 

So Moog bearings...no? I've had good luck with their chassis parts and am about to embark on this job myself. SKF? Dealer part? What's everybody's preference?

 

If Mike say's NAPA SKF will work trust him.

 

I went with OEM fronts and Moog rears on my wagon.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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So Moog bearings...no? I've had good luck with their chassis parts and am about to embark on this job myself. SKF? Dealer part? What's everybody's preference?

 

NAPA, SKF Front Hub Assy. BR930473

 

NAPA, SKF Rear Hub Assy. BR930474

 

Mike

Mileage:331487 Retired/Sold

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Hey RedDawg -

 

I'm similarly positioned with the once twice rear wheel bearing defect. The 1st bearing replacement was at 65k miles (out of warranty in terms of years however Subi (SOA) covered it) and on their nickle $. Now, here it is 2 years/18k miles on and the same right rear bearing is needing replacement, again. The car has a total of under 85k something miles to this original owner - what gives with the wheel bearings defect"s?

 

This Subi XT has an easy life/duty cycle to boot as a deadicated airport car; back and forth at hwy speeds each week all the while being parked indoors at the airport. WTF. Bad Subi, bad Subi ,,,

 

 

 

 

 

I have this problem occuring for the 2nd time now :mad:

 

1st time it was covered under warranty.

This time, they're not going to cover it.

 

It seems fairly straight forward to DIY but i don't have the time right now, what's an average (hours) it should take a non-dealership mechanic?

Cheers, Mike

 

 

|`94 E-Class Coupe |`98 Carrera 993 C2S |`14 Cayman S |`20 Outback Touring XT | All Debadged |

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Hey 08SpecB-DE -

 

Over torque'd by an absent minded Subaru dealership tech is plauseble.

In prep for the DIY R&R of the bearing a run to the local Sears brought a 3/4" drive 20" breaker bar and the 32mm impact type socket.... Looks like I'm adding more 3/4" tools to the kit.

Cheers, Mike

 

 

|`94 E-Class Coupe |`98 Carrera 993 C2S |`14 Cayman S |`20 Outback Touring XT | All Debadged |

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Hey RedDawg -

 

I'm similarly positioned with the once twice rear wheel bearing defect. The 1st bearing replacement was at 65k miles (out of warranty in terms of years however Subi (SOA) covered it) and on their nickle $. Now, here it is 2 years/18k miles later and the same right rear bearing is needing replacement, again. The car has a total of under 85k something miles to this original owner - what gives with the wheel bearings defect"s?

 

This Subi XT has an easy life/duty cycle to boot as a deadicated airport car; back and forth at hwy speeds each week all the while being parked indoors at the airport. WTF. Bad Subi, bad Subi ,,,

 

sucks more because i have no time to DIY this myself until probably the fall :mad:

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Hey 08SpecB-DE -

 

Over torque'd by an absent minded Subaru dealership tech is plauseble.

In prep for the DIY R&R of the bearing a run to the local Sears brought a 3/4" drive 20" breaker bar and the 32mm impact type socket.... Looks like I'm adding more 3/4" tools to the kit.

 

3/4? Whoa! I do not own any 3/4" tools, but I guess its personal preference. If you see a local Snap-On truck driving around, get his phone number. I thought tools were tools, but I was wrong! That rear axle nut gets torqued to 177 ft. lbs. if you did not already know.

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The 3/4 drive sockets are expensive, heavy in use, but work like a champ around our John Deere tractor and now the Subi's rear wheel bearing. The single 32mm impact socket alone was $45. - gota have a purpose.

 

The 2 torque wrenches I own are 3/8s and 1/2 inch drives. The 1/2 drive torque wrench - when attached to a 1/2 to 3/4 inch drive coupler - attached to the 32mm (3/4 inch drive) socket; My guess is the torque wrench should read true or close to spec even with the uber short drive size coupler, No? What's the golden rule when adding drive extensions? Add +10ft lbs for every 2 inches in extention length added? Something like that, eh?

Cheers, Mike

 

 

|`94 E-Class Coupe |`98 Carrera 993 C2S |`14 Cayman S |`20 Outback Touring XT | All Debadged |

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3/4? Whoa! I do not own any 3/4" tools, but I guess its personal preference. If you see a local Snap-On truck driving around, get his phone number. I thought tools were tools, but I was wrong! That rear axle nut gets torqued to 177 ft. lbs. if you did not already know.

 

Don't feel bad, I own a 3/4" impact gun. Not much it won't un-do.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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I believe it, but I do fine with my 1/2". :)

 

That's great to hear. Do you have the 3/4 to 1/2" adaptor ?

 

My 1/2" impact that came with my first Sears compressor, has a tuff time with anything old and rusty. I have another 1/2" gun that's a off brand that has lots of balls.

 

FWIW, If your ever in a "dollar store or Lot's and More", check out the $20 butterfly impact gun. It's a 3/8" drive has ten speeds and 70ftlbs. Nice little tool. I keep a 3/4/19mm socket on it for running the lug nuts on.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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That's great to hear. Do you have the 3/4 to 1/2" adaptor ?

 

My 1/2" impact that came with my first Sears compressor, has a tuff time with anything old and rusty. I have another 1/2" gun that's a off brand that has lots of balls.

 

FWIW, If your ever in a "dollar store or Lot's and More", check out the $20 butterfly impact gun. It's a 3/8" drive has ten speeds and 70ftlbs. Nice little tool. I keep a 3/4/19mm socket on it for running the lug nuts on.

 

I do not. All my sockets are 1/4", 3/8" or 1/2". I do not know what FWIW means :lol: I work on cars for a living so I already own quite a bit of tools, air tools and some tools I wish I never bought. If you wrench on your car often, I highly recommend you get in touch with a local Snap-On or Matco franchisee. Their tools are a lot more expensive but the quality can not be matched.

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