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Everything you wanted to know about a hitch install...


3tones

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On the subject of hitch bolts - I have a Yakima receiver rack and the bolt wouldn't fit the stock hitch on my old outback. So I put a steel spacer on it to keep the bolt head outside the flange. Worked just fine for thousands of miles - I'll be using the very same bolt on the new car and hitch.

 

In retrospect, I'd use brass if you can find it to keep it from corroding.

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I hate my DrawTite Subaru hitch.. had to drop it below the tow hook otherwise my bikes mounted on the rack was bumping into the rear window.

 

Having replaced the rear window to the tune of $1200 once already, it wasn't something I cared to have done again.

 

So anyways.. the hitch sits about 7.5" off the ground, coming off driveways, big American speedbumps, etc. and it's scraping.

 

Almost considering ordering that Aussie tow bracket now.. gonna try to remove the bumper this week when I drop the exhaust to see how different it is underneath.

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I've only hit my hitch once, and it was on an over-sized speed bump with the kids in the rear. I go slow over them now if I have the kids with me.

 

I also crawl over dips with the trailer, just in case. I've thought of putting a steel roller on but there is not a great place to mount it that doesn't take up even more of my clearance.

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Looks-wise it's similar to the newer model Subaru hitch.

 

I've attached photos so you can see for yourself - wife's sedan with HH and my wagon with Scooby hitch. HH sticks out further and is lower, more likely to scrape on stuff.

 

And Superhawk, SOP says Outback but box says 2005 Legacy.

I wonder if the difference in how far it appears to stick out has to do with the wagon vs sedan. The wagon is 2.5" longer according to MSN Autos.

 

188.70 in - Wagon Length

186.20 in - Sedan Length

 

I assume the extra length is all in the rear, so that might account for how the hitches look like they have different lengths.

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I wonder if the difference in how far it appears to stick out has to do with the wagon vs sedan. The wagon is 2.5" longer according to MSN Autos.

 

188.70 in - Wagon Length

186.20 in - Sedan Length

 

I assume the extra length is all in the rear, so that might account for how the hitches look like they have different lengths.

 

Nice theory but the photos on this thread would say otherwise. Plenty of sedans (or saloons if you're a Britophile) have the OEM hitch and it looks much better than the triangular style Hidden hitch.

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Looks better, but it is not a class 3 (2" receiver). If that is important to you, the OEM one just won't work.

 

I don't really like the look of the DrawTight I have, but it was the only one I could find.

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  • 4 weeks later...
Ok, wired the harness tonight and everything seems to work.

 

I had to splice in the harness to the tail lamp connector, since on the LGT sedan, there is no trailer connector.

 

Here are the pinouts (with the open end of the connector facing you):

 

1 2 3

4 5 x

clip

 

1 - Turn (this is the same on the driver's side or the passenger's side)

2 - tail/runner light

3 - ?

4 - ?

5 - Stop lamp

x - no pin at this post

 

3 or 4 is reverse (didn't bother testing). Whichever isn't the reverse, is a ground presumably. I connected the harness ground (which came with a ring terminal attached) to one of the bolts of the taillight assembly.

 

Happy pulling.

 

QUESTION!!

 

I only have 3 wires to connect for my trailer kit. L-Blink/R-Blink/Taillight. but my brake lights dont work on the trailer.... do i need to connect the taillights AND the stop lamp to the trailer wiring plug?

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Yep. I used a converter box, that generates the separate left turn / right turn / brake signals that most trailers need. The box also isolates the power feeds to the trailer, so those lights don't load down the circuits of the car.
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the converter box is the way to go, i have one for car too. Chris don't you hate how you cant get the mount above the tow hook? God I really wish I could go back and do that I wack my trailer hitch on evvvvvverything. But then again it does protect the undercarraige.
"Remember Danny - Two wrongs don't make a right but three rights make a left."
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the converter box is the way to go, i have one for car too. Chris don't you hate how you cant get the mount above the tow hook? God I really wish I could go back and do that I wack my trailer hitch on evvvvvverything. But then again it does protect the undercarraige.

 

Yeah, kinda annoying on the wife's car but she doesn't mind so much. That's why I went for the factory hitch on mine - didn't think it was possible at the time we installed my wife's

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I hate my DrawTite Subaru hitch.. had to drop it below the tow hook otherwise my bikes mounted on the rack was bumping into the rear window.

 

Having replaced the rear window to the tune of $1200 once already, it wasn't something I cared to have done again.

 

So anyways.. the hitch sits about 7.5" off the ground, coming off driveways, big American speedbumps, etc. and it's scraping.

 

Almost considering ordering that Aussie tow bracket now.. gonna try to remove the bumper this week when I drop the exhaust to see how different it is underneath.

 

Please do. I've whacked my hitch a few times, and it's a terrible sound.

 

I wish I could get it to tuck up under the car a little more.

 

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii287/bac52/IMG_20101013_180511.jpg

[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard
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I've hit mine a few times now too. Went over a monster speed bump and whacked pretty hard, because I hadn't learned to slow down yet and had the kids in the back.

 

I drug a few times with the trailer attached too- mostly dips going in/out of gas stations.

 

I'd like to put on a roller, but can't find a place to mount it that doesn't cut down on my already low clearance. Maybe I'll put it on the bottom of the trailer tongue, but then it'd pull up on the hitch when it hits.

 

I ran 17.5 to 18.5 mpg from Spokane to the Oregon coast and back. Not as good as I had run up north to the Colville forest earlier this year. But it was hotter out, and I did have a heavier load I suspect.

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  • 3 months later...

I know, resurrecting an old thread... I figure I'm shopping for a hitch, and got some new info, so I wanted to report it on this very helpful thread.

 

I am told by a vendor (not one here, that I know of) that the difference between L101SAG000 and L101SAG100 USED to be that the -100 "came with the exhaust gaskets" and that they now BOTH do. This vendor actually compared both sets, and found they are identical otherwise... they sell the -000 because it's cheaper.

 

In addition, they tell me the towing capacity and tongue weights are the same, per Subaru's catalog. He even showed me the cat pages (attached below for reference).

 

With that, it seems today, at least, there is no difference between these part numbers...

 

 

I've been looking for a hitch for a bit now, and I see that ALL the aftermarket ones are now the "triangular" style... no one seems to be making the hooped or even tubular style. What's more, the prices have gone up for the OEM version... supply and demand, I guess. If anyone has tips on where to find a better price on the OEM (or any other solutions) I'd love to hear about it!

 

For that matter, anyone want to sell theirs? :)

IMG0001.thumb.jpg.44bd6fa6771fbc095c3a48ccfc8f6c65.jpg

IMG0002.thumb.jpg.10e924a1b5c0c6edd3d47d996f91168c.jpg

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I am at stock ride height, except for a slightly higher profile tire. Have had mine, a DrawTite installed under the rear tow loop for two years now. I have looked for a way to mount it above the loop, but no spacer combination will work. Its been functional, but scrapes everywhere. I used to sand and paint it once a month. No more. Its an annoyance, but gets our bikes where we need them. Keeps me from lowering the car.
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From what I have read, this (scraping) is the problem I fear the most. I have a JDM Bilstein/Pinks setup on my car, which is slightly lower than stock, so the DrawTite (which I actually ordered but it's going back tomorrow) is probably a bad idea.

 

The OEM seems best for clearance, and I'm hoping that's the case. If anyone else can confirm that this setup would work, that would be great! For that matter, does anyone with an OEM hitch see any significant scraping issues?

 

I also plan on looking at the car this weekend as I come onto/off-of my sloped driveway... hopefully it clears as I already have a motorcycle trailer dying to get some use!

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I had a custom hitch fabricated and I can't imagine that there's anything out there with better clearance. Surprisingly, it wasn't expensive at all. I'll have to dig out the receipt, but I think it was $200-$250 installed. I'll have to post up photos when I get a chance to snap some. I had the work done at Hitch Crafters in Costa Mesa (Southern California) and told the owner/fabricator that he should make ten and sell them here, but he said he won't sell anyone a hitch without installing it himself for fear of liability issues.

 

I didn't watch him do the work and I haven't even crawled around to take a look at it, but he assured me that it was up to Class II standards and was entirely removable (bolted on). I went with a 1.25" receiver for the extra clearance. So far, the biggest load I've carried was 2000-2500 lbs.

 

I realize most people aren't in my area, but I'd encourage people to look for competent hitch fabricators to get the best possible clearance.

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I did some quick searching for a hitch fabricator (aka welding shop). Looks like I'll have to dig deeper as they don't advertise this capability, for the most part...

 

Superhawk - did you end up getting an OEM hitch, or are you running without one?

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