SBT Posted October 19, 2011 Share Posted October 19, 2011 You'd likely have to rewire a bit for the additional sensors on the SVX (which was very advanced for its time) and to make the BIU work correctly, but if you didn't care about things like cruise and HVAC, you could likely get the SVX ECU to work. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jab83 Posted October 19, 2011 Share Posted October 19, 2011 I do enjoy cruise and some other things but i can live with out lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jab83 Posted October 20, 2011 Share Posted October 20, 2011 do you think the stock internals could Hold up with a supercharger??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted October 20, 2011 Share Posted October 20, 2011 Depends how many miles are on the one you swap in and how well it's been maintained. They've been out of production for 14 years and those you find are high-mileage, so a used one without a service record is a crap shoot. That said though, with a 10.0 CR, I'd not boost it much over 5psi (typical large-pulley supercharger). Any more than that, you'd want to start beefing up internals and probably lowering CR a bit to take more boost. The other thing to keep in mind is that the heads on these are pretty much maxed out flow-wise in NA form, so you'd more than likely want to up the I & E valve sizing and port/polish your tracts to get better flow. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated broknindarkagain Posted October 20, 2011 I Donated Share Posted October 20, 2011 I wouldn't think that finding aftermarket pistons and rods would be hard though. Isn't the bore / stroke the same as the EJ22? I would think you could use EJ22 bottom end parts...unless rod journals on the crank are a larger diameter. Lowering the compression ratio isn't that big of a deal. You can have Cometic custom make multi layer steel head gaskets for about $80 +/- each. 1.6mm or thicker would probably go great on a forced induction H6 As far as the heads go, I'm not sure about this...but I would imaging that you could fit EJ sepecific valves of some sort in there...and finding oversized valves for an EJ is going to be A LOT easier then finding them for the H6 engine. About the ECU, trying to get the SVX ecu to work probably isn't even worth the trouble. For the time and money it would take to do that, I would suggest running a stand alone...That way it would be a bit easier to keep your accessories working...Not to mention the SVX ecu will be worthless once you went to forced induction -broknindarkagain My Current Project - Click Here COME AND TAKE IT "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted October 20, 2011 Share Posted October 20, 2011 The EG33 design derives from the 1st Gen Legacy EJ22E and adds two additional cylinders of 550cc each, breathing through a 24 valve DOHC head setup. It's possible that the 1st Gen EJ22T internals (rods, pistons) would work as would better flowing EJ255 valves - but confirm first. Agree that lowering CR should be fairly easy, just need to be aware that running stock CR and large boost numbers would likely end catastrophically all else equal And if you can source a stand-alone ECU for the right price, then that would be the way to go. Between sourcing the SC, the fueling, the heads, the SA ECU, new oil and water pump, timing belt, oil routing for the SC, etc., you're probably looking at a $4-$5K build if not more. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated broknindarkagain Posted October 20, 2011 I Donated Share Posted October 20, 2011 (edited) Megasquirt is an excellent low cost stand alone (or piggyback) system....and its not that difficult to work with. http://www.diyautotune.com I've been tossing around the idea of building a 3.3 one of these days. I may do it as an experiment type thing and just figure out what works and what does not work as far as filament of internal parts. Quick Google search pulled up this thread. Seems to have a bit of interesting info in it. Edited October 20, 2011 by broknindarkagain -broknindarkagain My Current Project - Click Here COME AND TAKE IT "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted October 20, 2011 Share Posted October 20, 2011 If I had a EG33 block to tear down, I could bolt it up to the engine stand and start playing around with it. Too many other projects though. BTW - Sixspeedlegacy was doing a single or dual-turbo EG33/EZ30 conversion on his BE, but is now doing a full STI swap into it. He's got some great lessons learned about H6s in the Legacys. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jab83 Posted October 20, 2011 Share Posted October 20, 2011 hmmmm. I still plan on doing this swap I'll wait to see what i can do till i split the h6 i get. and see how it looks and all Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JAC Wagon Posted October 21, 2011 Share Posted October 21, 2011 Depends how many miles are on the one you swap in and how well it's been maintained. They've been out of production for 14 years and those you find are high-mileage, so a used one without a service record is a crap shoot. That said though, with a 10.0 CR, I'd not boost it much over 5psi (typical large-pulley supercharger). Any more than that, you'd want to start beefing up internals and probably lowering CR a bit to take more boost. The other thing to keep in mind is that the heads on these are pretty much maxed out flow-wise in NA form, so you'd more than likely want to up the I & E valve sizing and port/polish your tracts to get better flow. The EG33 design derives from the 1st Gen Legacy EJ22E and adds two additional cylinders of 550cc each, breathing through a 24 valve DOHC head setup. It's possible that the 1st Gen EJ22T internals (rods, pistons) would work as would better flowing EJ255 valves - but confirm first. Agree that lowering CR should be fairly easy, just need to be aware that running stock CR and large boost numbers would likely end catastrophically all else equal And if you can source a stand-alone ECU for the right price, then that would be the way to go. Between sourcing the SC, the fueling, the heads, the SA ECU, new oil and water pump, timing belt, oil routing for the SC, etc., you're probably looking at a $4-$5K build if not more. Dude do you have all this in your head or are you reading it and then posting it? If this is all in your head, can you leave me your brain in your will? I want to hook it up to my computer and download it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted October 21, 2011 Share Posted October 21, 2011 37 years with Subarus will do that to you...that and my brain collects and stores billions of Subaru data pieces all the time. Keeping track of it all, all the time, is my problem. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Grouch Posted October 30, 2011 Share Posted October 30, 2011 (edited) Hi, so I ordered the front strut tower bar from the link on the first page of this thread off ebay - the one for an impreza. Got the impression of impreza/wrx for front/rear after reading whole thread. The bar that arrived is aluminum and black, and low profile....but doesnt fit. Seems to be an inch or two too short. Â What am I missing here? Any help would be appreciated. Edited October 30, 2011 by The Grouch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kd5zmg Posted October 30, 2011 Share Posted October 30, 2011 (edited) Which one the front or the back? I have this on the front. What is not fitting correctly? The back was a little more challenging, so I did not install it yet. I am going to get new rear tophats and struts when I put the rear bar on... hopefully... Hi, so I ordered the front strut tower bar from the link on the first page of this thread off ebay - the one for an impreza. Got the impression of impreza/wrx for front/rear after reading whole thread. The bar that arrived is aluminum and black, and low profile....but doesnt fit. Seems to be an inch or two too short.  What am I missing here? Any help would be appreciated. Edited October 30, 2011 by kd5zmg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JAC Wagon Posted October 30, 2011 Share Posted October 30, 2011 They botha re adjustable, at least mine were. The ends... are they threaded with adjustable bolts and nuts? Â Post a picture so I can help you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated broknindarkagain Posted October 30, 2011 I Donated Share Posted October 30, 2011 Yeah....most of them can adjust wider or shorter. -broknindarkagain My Current Project - Click Here COME AND TAKE IT "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Grouch Posted October 30, 2011 Share Posted October 30, 2011 Hey thanks for the prompt replies. My internet is down so no pics for now, Ill do best I can to explain in words. Well I was taking my first look at the front bar last night so it was pretty dark. Yep, the length was adjustable and I just threw it on right now. Few questions: the way the black rings sit around my strut tower area...it isnt exactly flush with the body of the car, but seems secure. This okay? And, the bolt between the aluminum bar and the black ring area, that bolt doesnt/shouldnt be really tight, right? And I guess I was supposed to mount the bar with the bend of the bar facing down, right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Grouch Posted October 30, 2011 Share Posted October 30, 2011 Im bout to take it on a run to test it out. My hood closes but I get the impression the highest points on bar might be touching inside of my hood. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated broknindarkagain Posted October 30, 2011 I Donated Share Posted October 30, 2011 You can flip it upside down and be ok. As far as the black thing that bolts to the strut tower....Sounds to me like you have the bar adjusted out too far. Bolt the things down with the bar off....then after those are tight put the bar on -broknindarkagain My Current Project - Click Here COME AND TAKE IT "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Grouch Posted October 30, 2011 Share Posted October 30, 2011 Thats what I did. Anyways, I notice a little difference. Lets wait till the rear bar comes  But yea.... the hood closes fine but the top of the black ring parts on the bar definitely touch inside of hood lightly. I can see contact points. And Im pretty sure the bar isnt too long....its a relatively perfect fit around the strut towers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stasis Posted October 31, 2011 Share Posted October 31, 2011 If it's only touching the lining and not pressing hard against the hood I don't think i'd worry tbh Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated broknindarkagain Posted November 1, 2011 I Donated Share Posted November 1, 2011 http://www.ebay.com/itm/96-97-98-99-03-SUBARU-LEGACY-RACING-SHORT-THROW-SHIFTER-/380380191044?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3ASubaru&vxp=mtr&hash=item58906d1944#ht_1588wt_934 -broknindarkagain My Current Project - Click Here COME AND TAKE IT "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlphaPoppa Posted December 18, 2011 Share Posted December 18, 2011 This is a great thread, thank you for throwing so much good information into one place for us newbies. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
overspool Posted December 20, 2011 Share Posted December 20, 2011 I've been trying to figure out a fab up some fender braces... there aren't any good places to bolt them to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated broknindarkagain Posted December 20, 2011 I Donated Share Posted December 20, 2011 I've been trying to figure out a fab up some fender braces... there aren't any good places to bolt them to. Then tap holes....or even better, weld -broknindarkagain My Current Project - Click Here COME AND TAKE IT "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
overspool Posted December 20, 2011 Share Posted December 20, 2011 I'm trying to fabricate a bolt on piece. The metal is pretty weak so there isn't a good place to tap either. I could weld em on, but i'd rather not... I don't have any corrosion protection I could use at the moment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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