datnguyen24 Posted September 9, 2012 Share Posted September 9, 2012 Having the same problem like everyone else, test drove the car everything was working fine. The minute I pay off the dealer, and drive off the door switch sticks and the window doesn't roll down. This isn't my DD so I am not worried about it, I will have to take it apart sometime before the winter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leviman Posted September 9, 2012 Share Posted September 9, 2012 I took my switch apart and put some grease in the parts that rub together. Worked for me! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wiscogtlimited Posted September 9, 2012 Share Posted September 9, 2012 datn..... Do the other windows roll down? If so, my guess is that when they put the switch back together, they neglected to align the internal slide pin/bar correctly. If you do get it apart, you will notice that there is a black arm with a split in the middle as well as a little spring loaded white pin. The white pin portion pivots inside the switch an does not control the mechanism inside. The black arm's split actually is meant to align over a small white plastic slide inside of the switch. On mine, the first time I put it back together i missed it and had the same problem you are having. Grab a flashlight and a paperclip and fish around in the switch opening. With little effort you will see the slide. All you need to do is center the slide and snap the switch back together. I lubed the white spring loaded pin tip with some marine grease and it is working better than ever. Once you get the door apart you are looking at 10 minutes tops to figure it all out. If I had to do it again, I could probably do it in a minute. Hope you get your money back and get your window rolling again. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdubski Posted September 9, 2012 Share Posted September 9, 2012 haha a grip of people with this problem. I havent noticed it in the ones i test drove but in my old 4runner, one of the switches completely went out and i had to go to the junkyard and pick up a new one for like $10 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dingbang Posted September 9, 2012 Share Posted September 9, 2012 Mine is in permanent auto down and up mode...started as sticky. Now moves very freely lol gotta love hot days when the car sits outside at work, didn't even make any snapping noises when it broke. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jond_68 Posted September 10, 2012 Share Posted September 10, 2012 Just started noticing last week at 160,000 miles and 6 years. A lot of stops at the Dunkin Donuts drive through. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ibr_adam09 Posted November 21, 2012 Share Posted November 21, 2012 So I replaced my switch but my window still doesn't work. Would it be becuase of a relay of a burnt motor ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted November 21, 2012 Share Posted November 21, 2012 yes. Do you have a volt meter ? Sears sells them for a few bucks. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ibr_adam09 Posted November 21, 2012 Share Posted November 21, 2012 Yea I do. Where should I check ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
-Samurai- Posted November 22, 2012 Share Posted November 22, 2012 Yeeeeeep. Drivers window switch, sticks as if someone spilled pop on it LOL Annoying as hell. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChefRacer Posted November 22, 2012 Share Posted November 22, 2012 Mine sticks sometimes too. I just deal with it Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G5892 Posted November 23, 2012 Share Posted November 23, 2012 Add me to the list. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ibr_adam09 Posted November 26, 2012 Share Posted November 26, 2012 So my bad switch cause my motor to burn itself out. Got a new motor and switch and good as new. FYI. It's best if you take your switch apart and grease the hell out of it, including the little spring. Also if your plastic piece inside broke ( which is what will happen eventually) you can easily take a piece of metal rod with the same thickness , like such as a clothes hanger, cut it the same length as the plastic piece and round off one side of the edge that will rest on the pivot of the curcuit board. This would pretty much bullet proof the switch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duh_cabbage Posted December 30, 2012 Share Posted December 30, 2012 Same problem with my window switch. Reading all the previous comments I suddenly realised how common it was and it gave me the confidence to try and fix it. Took the whole switch apart today and the plastic pin had broken on the driver's switch. Followed ibr_adam09's advice and swapped the broken pin for a piece of wire and reassembled the switch. Wasn't quite as smooth as I would like, so I took it apart again and substituted the metal pin for one of the plastic pins from the central locking switch (which I never use anyway). End result is that the central locking switch is a little bit stiff in one direction (lazy workmanship probably) and the driver's works like a charm - nice and smooth. Hope the replacement plastic pin doesn't break on me any time soon. So much hassle for a 2c part! Thanks to all the people who posted pictures and solutions before me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottFW Posted December 30, 2012 Share Posted December 30, 2012 Mine got sticky shortly after I bought my LGT this summer. It was one of the first things I fixed on the car. The root cause of why it sticks and eventually breaks is the shitty design of that deep V groove the pin slides in. Once you get it apart and look at it, think about the force vector that pin sees when you move the switch, then you'll realize why it shears off once the plastic gets a little wear on it and no longer moves all slick-like. Regreasing is a band-aid fix, and having to take apart your door to regrease a window switch every few years is major bullshit anyway. Of the various solutions I figured that the method of "re-contouring" the surface that the pin slides on was the better way to go. It has worked well so far. Switch moves nice and freely, it's not overly sensitive WRT the auto position, and it eliminates the cause of broken plastic pins. If yours is sticking, it WILL eventually break so it behooves you to get around to this sooner rather than later. Took me something like 60-90 minutes start to finish. This doesn't cost any money and I believe a switch fixed with this method will likely outlast a brand new OEM one. Time will tell. http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3063812&postcount=65 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMLegacy Posted May 29, 2013 Share Posted May 29, 2013 The fix: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/driver-side-switch-broke-fixed-208432.html?p=4448449#post4448449 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.