JMLegacy

I did take it back to the shop. They said it's a small control arm bushing. I disagreed. I took it to a wheel alignment and inspection stand. They found nothing. Finally took it to my day-one mechanic. In 2 minutes he found that the ball join nut was loose, on BOTH sides. Idiots at the first shops pulled them.

Weird problem. I had the mechanic change strut mounts and now a weird popping sound is heard going over bumps. Any clue?

I started experiencing symptoms about 2 weeks ago and I did about 250 miles or more before I dropped the pan. I thought it was just a speed sensor issue but I also heard a very slight ticking sound. Not a clank, just a tick like the audio disc changer selecting. So I brought it in to change the valve body. Dropped the pan and there I saw the gear that sheared off and the internal speed sensor, mangled.

Same problem. Right rear of car I smell it. Not seeing any drips but I suppose it is there.

The part that screws bolt into, Need this for 2005 LGT

Crazy as it sounds, and i'm not sure how i didn't reply before now, but spark plugs ALWAYS fixes this error for me. It's what I use now to determine when I need to change plugs. haha

That alone won't work, you need friction pack and a center diff that's up to the task.

Ambient Temp: 82F Elevation: 500 ft Weather: Clear Car: 2004 BL5 LGT JDM 2.0 Tuner: Self Track info: Concrete, old army airstrip Transmission: 5EAT Peak Horse Power at RPM: N/A Peak Torque at RPM: N/A Fuel: 90 Engine/Power Modifications: VF34, Meth, ported header, Billet wheel. 13.250 @ 103.21 Virtual dragstrip software: http://www.mediafire.com/file/ud9hw32bkw5h6ia/virtualdragstrip.exe works with romraider log, just ensure you log vehicle speed and throttle opening angle, only start logging when your car is stationary

lol. Maybe after i hit 12s, that's the normal progression of the power bug yes. Your transmission would love a tranny tune,fresh fluid, filter change and a tranny cooler. for example: This retard value is added to the overall ignition timing during an upshift. So in my case i have -17 degrees, but at 24 degree timing this turns to 7 degrees timing (-17+24=7). You can reduce the -17 further if you want it to unload more during shifts. Some other tranny tune tricks can be applied as well. Other than these things you will have to pull her a part and add some clutch packs.

Yeah the last part of the run my self made meth controller hanged, screen froze. I assumed it stopped spraying. I have a 2.5 block to build that I could throw in her for a good competitive (drag strip) launch ... if i can spare the center diff. lol. Currently i have to charge the TQ converter for 8 whole seconds and it only builds boost that way right after a hot run. The 2.5 would be for that reason only. But then again i also have a nitrous kit i could use for that. Hmm. Maybe a build a 2.1 and use nitrous. I just wanna run 12s...

Then the 5eat really eats power as I have 19psi, 24 degree timing both at 7200 RPM, 11.4AFR running water meth injection and a VF34 with bigger billet compressor wheel. My turbo is slightly bigger than a VF52.

Whats' your WHP reading? I refuse to believe my 3400lb car has only 245 dyno jet WHP. lol

Of course you know 5EAT just don't dyno right. So 246whp on Dyno Jet 235 in virtual dyno and 290 in VD when converted using MPH Doing 0-160 in 11 seconds (100 MPH) [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YyCMopTbZBs]Legacy GT 0 - 100 mph (0 to 160km/h) VF34 Meth - YouTube[/ame]

What difference are you feeling?

U still get ER_HC on your dash?

How was that conversion?

I meant frankster! Lmao. Sorry.

Yeah, i never quite understood that table so i jus set my boost to 14psi at <3000 rpm. I launch at around 12psi @ 3000 in my video. Considering that it is a 2.0 liter it's a lot less torque than my brethren below. 15 psi @3K in a 2.5 liter is a lot of torque dude. haha. What RPM did u launch at?

I don't see anything wrong with investigating among ourselves to better understand this transmission... Just like the evo guys figured their transfer case will not break if they roll off. What i'm figuring with my question, is that if i move off more gently and at a lower rpm (And yes a bit slower), then I might preserve my center diff. Btw guys, are you aware of a 3.9 final ratio for this transmission? This guy over russia claimed to use a 5eat out of a spec B and his speedo does reflect 3.9 final ratio [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j1aQoyML9Ug&t=0s]Subaru legacy b4 bl5 gt (spec b) 0-170 acceleration - YouTube[/ame] 2nd gear, 7000rpm, 90km/h

Far side had failures. But his torque is through the roof with ls swap engine I believe.

About launching again. Let me see if i understand this. So the launch from the sudden shock of torque through the diff is what cause the needle bearings to flex beyond an acceptable measure, and cause gears to break? Or just the sheer power causing it to flex whether we release hard or gently? If that is so, what about stalling and letting go the brake for a softer rollingesque launch like EVO guys?

Yes. They do not fit. You can get this style of bushings out of england i believe though. AFtermarket. Don't see why I'd want them after I used the Group N / JDM bushings.

Can anyone here do a log for me brake-boosting and lauch at 3000 rpm? 3000 is safe enough, over 3500 and 4k you more likely have to have the brass bushing Log Engine speed, Boost, MAF g/s, and volumetric efficency if you have it. Thanks. Trying to see how the 2.0 compares to the 2.5 while doing that. EDIT: Got the info I needed. 90 something g/s

I prev had installled USDM LCA bushings. Now those were shot and I replaced with JDM bushings. First thing I noticed is that the bushing is completely solid, no void as is found in the USDM one. The impression I get is night and day. Front now feels invincible. Lol. Nothing else was changed on my front end.

I know YOU would , but just putting it out for the others who wanna try on their own