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05 Legacy GT - Autospecialty XP rotors and Pads and Hawk HPS Review


rao

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Stingray - These pads are $25 and look like normal pads. If you don't like the hawks, it's a cheap investment and 45 minutes of your time to swap them on.

 

Yup, I understand. Just trying to get some info before I spend the time. I have lots of demands on my time lately.

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Are you running SS lines?

 

:lol:

 

I have installed SS lines on several cars and several Legacy GT''s -all for other people and I have seen at least 2 Legacy sests fail while bleeding the brakes :eek:

 

The pads and rotors work well, but if you are looking for brake magic, this is not the place. Read the first part of the first post.

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:lol:

 

I have installed SS lines on several cars and several Legacy GT''s -all for other people and I have seen at least 2 Legacy sests fail while bleeding the brakes :eek:

 

The pads and rotors work well, but if you are looking for brake magic, this is not the place. Read the first part of the first post.

 

How have the SS lines failed while bleeding? Do they split open and start leaking fluid? Do the threads get stripped when installing? What?

 

I've read this whole thread.

 

I'm trying to figure out why my Frozen Rotor, Hawk HPS, Goodridge SS line, and ATE Superblue setup isn't as good as the new 2007 Legacy 2.5i with less than 20 miles that I drove at a dealer a few years ago. The initial bite was a LOT closer towards me on that car, and the total travel of the pedal required to stop the car was a LOT less than on my car.

 

 

I checked with a dealer, and they said that the master cylinder didn't change from fomr 05 to the end of this body style. So it shouldn't have been a difference between the increase in M/C piston bore or something crazy like that.

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Stingray - Because your modifications are not inherently going to create more initial bite. Let me be clear:

 

SS lines - This does nothing for you in terms of daily driving initial bite, unless your stock lines were worn out from being stretched too much. These only help in terms of very high track usage.

 

Frozen Rotor - Does nothing for bite, it just resists warping a bit better. That being said, very very few rotors actually warp.

 

ATE Superblue - The hydraulic fluid exerts the same amount of pressure as regular DOT 3 brake fluid. It just doesn't boil until a higher temperature. This will do nothing for initial bite unless your stock fluid was already shot.

 

Hawks HPS - Some users report improved bite with these, others report worse bite. The truth is probably somewhere in the gray area. These pads WILL bite harder and resist fade more once they have some heat in them. At the same time, they may not work near as well when it's cold and/or wet out until they have heat in them.

 

...

 

The best answer I can give you is to get a set of cheap $25 pads or OEM pads and swap them in. You'll probably get better initial bite, because these pads are formulated to bite well right from the get-go....they just won't do well under severe repeated braking.

 

Joe

 

P.s. Rao - I've seen some light. :)

 

How have the SS lines failed while bleeding? Do they split open and start leaking fluid? Do the threads get stripped when installing? What?

 

I've read this whole thread.

 

I'm trying to figure out why my Frozen Rotor, Hawk HPS, Goodridge SS line, and ATE Superblue setup isn't as good as the new 2007 Legacy 2.5i with less than 20 miles that I drove at a dealer a few years ago. The initial bite was a LOT closer towards me on that car, and the total travel of the pedal required to stop the car was a LOT less than on my car.

 

 

I checked with a dealer, and they said that the master cylinder didn't change from fomr 05 to the end of this body style. So it shouldn't have been a difference between the increase in M/C piston bore or something crazy like that.

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Yes, but you've taught Joe some things. 20% of his thanks goes to you. :)

 

My house is actively showing right now, so no time to swap in the new brake pads (or the other services I need to do). I'll post my impressions before May though (when my new inspection is due, before which I'll have put the autospecialty pads on).

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That's fair unclemat. My personal experience is that I've gotten 40k out of them with little dust, no noise, and minimal deposits that I can wipe off with just ~2-3 hard braking events. I know others have had worse.

 

I should've said "OEM Style" though.

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As has been proven time and time again on this very forum, the entire OEM CAR is garbage :lol:

 

Truer words, rarely spoken.

 

Rao - I will have you know that I am scared of my car passing the 60k mile mark. I believe the turbo will be ingested and require a new longblock. The throwout bearing will grenade and take out the bellhousing and maybe my leg. Etc.

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The miracle is that your car made it off of the dealer's lot given all of the sub-standard parts on it.

 

The really interesting thing is that these are both the King of Cars!!! faster than any Porsche, better than a Lamborghini and complete pieces of crap at the SAME TIME :eek:

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  • 1 year later...

I've been reading up on upgrading my own brakes. 08LGT DD in Chicago, No tracking, just need replaced worn brakes and looking to upgrade without overkill.

I feel like im being seduced slowly to get a BBK by too many threads/members and am actively resisting it.

 

Out of curiousity, Rao can you post your current setup? Is it AutoSpeciality XP rotors and Autospeciality Pads still? Looks like im debating between OEM rotors, DBA or Autospeciality and HPS or Autospeciality/other pads.

 

SS lines are a given and im wondering if i should upgrade master cylinder bracket.

 

thoughts and comments are appreciated.

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+1 For Autospeciality, grabbed a front set for my 08 2.5i Impreza to replace the ebc yellowstuff and resurfaced oem rotors that had lasted only 1yr. Can't beat $50 and free shipping, better than dropping the $$$ on oem blanks and subpar hawk pads.
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You guys are funny. Having installed 100s and 100s of brakes on Subarus in the past 10 years, we've seen and installed almost every setup you can imagine. The Hawk HPS pads are some of the best bang for your buck. It's a great combo of low noise, low dust and amazing stopping power from cold for a daily driven street car. I've even done a few track days with them on my LGT.

 

As for rotors, Centric Standard or Premium rotors are also the best combo of longevity and performance.

 

But what do we know, we only track, road race, and street drive in some of the harshest conditions around.

 

-mike

 

http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/91072632.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/133406601.jpg

AIM: AZP Installs | E-mail: paisan@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | T-1 Certified Amsoil Dealer

"Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!"

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I have read it and you are giving out misinformation about the Hawk HPS pads. Sorry to burst your bubble but you may have had a bad set of pads or some anomaly or didn't bed them in properly. 1 set of pads does not make or break a who line of pads.

 

-mike

 

http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/91072632.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/133406601.jpg

AIM: AZP Installs | E-mail: paisan@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | T-1 Certified Amsoil Dealer

"Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!"

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Really? So my friend who had the same issue must have been missing the boat as well? Maybe it was a conspiracy?

 

This thread is NOT a review of the amazing Hawk HPS pads.

 

Maybe you have some information about the AutoSpecialty pads that you would like to share with us?

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Perhaps your friend didn't bed in his pads properly as well. Heck we've "fixed" many pads for customers who have come in to get new pads after inspection there is plenty of meat on them. We take them out and re-bed the pads in for them and they work find for a long time after that. Not just Hawk pads mind you. We've done this for at least a dozen or so clients who have had all different pads on their cars who felt they "needed" new brakes.

 

The title of the thread says Hawk HPS does it not?

 

-mike

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