Grrupt Posted June 30, 2010 Share Posted June 30, 2010 Has anybody had a CEL problem after installing a 5k Apexcone Raptor HID kit? I only removed the MAF sensor plug and it seems to be fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bakabakablah Posted June 30, 2010 Share Posted June 30, 2010 Yep, I did. All I had to do to clear mine was to remove the negative side from the battery and step on the brake pedal for a few seconds. After I reattached the negative, everything was fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grrupt Posted June 30, 2010 Share Posted June 30, 2010 Yep, I did. All I had to do to clear mine was to remove the negative side from the battery and step on the brake pedal for a few seconds. After I reattached the negative, everything was fine. Nice. I actually took off the actual MAF sensor and was debating weather to clean it... hr later decided not to and put it back it and no more CEL. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sulk Posted December 26, 2010 Share Posted December 26, 2010 Came across this thread again, as it looks like my one of my bulbs is about to die. Ever since day one, it has always seemed like one bulb was a bit warmer then the other (both supposed to be 6k), and recently its gotten a lot worse. But that's what bulbs do as they die. before it wasn't noticeable unless you looked for it. Now one is pretty much yellow (4k~) So seems like one bulb has lasted about 10 months, of driving everyday with them on (I use them as DRL). Other bulb is still trucking on without issue. I will be ordering bulbs from DDM again, I hope they still stock the same ones as I got in my original kit, and haven't changed brands, cause these ones have been good for me. Great bulbs, and no problems at all with the ballasts. I keep them on during ignition and they've never had any issue. If it lasts longer, I'll post how long it lasted, but it will probably die within this month. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
triple_B Posted December 26, 2010 Share Posted December 26, 2010 Came across this thread again, as it looks like my one of my bulbs is about to die. Ever since day one, it has always seemed like one bulb was a bit warmer then the other (both supposed to be 6k), and recently its gotten a lot worse. But that's what bulbs do as they die. before it wasn't noticeable unless you looked for it. Now one is pretty much yellow (4k~) So seems like one bulb has lasted about 10 months, of driving everyday with them on (I use them as DRL). Other bulb is still trucking on without issue. I will be ordering bulbs from DDM again, I hope they still stock the same ones as I got in my original kit, and haven't changed brands, cause these ones have been good for me. Great bulbs, and no problems at all with the ballasts. I keep them on during ignition and they've never had any issue. If it lasts longer, I'll post how long it lasted, but it will probably die within this month. good luck with the lifetime warranty. seems like its always an easy transaction. let us know. as for your constant use i would say its safe but unneeded to heat them up all the time specially, on hot days. but a life span is a life span as you stated. i am really puzzled by your comment (and many others) to the affect of stating you always have the light on when you start the car...as if its a good or needed thing. i feel quite the opposite! voltage spikes the like just dont seem like a good thing. why stress the bulb/ballast. i ALWAYS have the bulbs off before starting or turning off the engine. i want them bulbs to last for ever. just my dos 'sense'. take care, Triple Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sulk Posted December 26, 2010 Share Posted December 26, 2010 good luck with the lifetime warranty. seems like its always an easy transaction. let us know. as for your constant use i would say its safe but unneeded to heat them up all the time specially, on hot days. but a life span is a life span as you stated. i am really puzzled by your comment (and many others) to the affect of stating you always have the light on when you start the car...as if its a good or needed thing. i feel quite the opposite! voltage spikes the like just dont seem like a good thing. why stress the bulb/ballast. i ALWAYS have the bulbs off before starting or turning off the engine. i want them bulbs to last for ever. just my dos 'sense'. take care, Triple Ah, I dont think its an issue with the ballast, its probably just the bulb dying, so I don't think I have any issues with the warranty. As for running them all the time, I don't really want to run without DRL of some kind, and my indicators being on in the 2nd light position isn't really enough for me. Yea, I just remember people initially said that some ballasts can't handle firing during the ignition process, but I've had no issue with it. If anything it probably puts more stress on everything, but I figured I'd just state what mine have been going through, incase other people have similar problems or something. If the bulb is still discolored after changing it, then I guess I have a ballast issue and not a bulb issue. Then it's more a pia to get fixed. As a side note, if I had fogs, I'd run them as drl, and leave the hids alone. But I don't, so its just cheaper to get new bulbs then install fogs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vam Posted January 6, 2011 Share Posted January 6, 2011 installed my kit today, replaced an older 35w version of a generic HID kit with their 55w. huge difference!! im feeling it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doccrowley Posted February 5, 2011 Share Posted February 5, 2011 After 1 year running the DDMtuning.com Raptor V2 kit on my car non-stop they finally went out 2 weeks ago. First I lost a 35W H3 bulb for my left foglight. Contacted DDm for warranty replacement, they issued a RMA # by email within 24 hours and asked for both bulbs back because they always send bulbs in pairs so they color match. I waited a week for the weather to warm up enough to disect the fogs and my right H7 bulb had started to yellow in the time I waited to get the fogs. I called DDM warranty dept, they asked for an email of the color difference between the left and right side because when they bench test a bulb it is so bright they can never tell color difference. Only email pics of color differences is how they warranty for color probs. They added a note to my H3 RMA in their system that I would be emailing a pic of the H7 color difference. A head's on camera shot never worked for my camera. Too bright. Here's what worked: Pulled up tight against my white garage door and took a cell phone pic of the color difference from behind the drivers wheel and thru the windshield. It worked perfect to show the color diff. I emailed the pic to their tech support email address and then sent 4 bulbs packed into a small priority mail box from USPS for $5 on a Friday afternoon. I received a call from tech dept on Monday (fast turn around) saying they never warranty cracked bulbs (damage is not covered) and that it would cost $15 for a new set of H3 bulbs. The H7's had become color mismatched and they OK'd the warranty. They asked for $6 in shipping and $15 for replacement H3's and said they would send back the one good H3 I had left to keep as another back-up in case another bulb ever went down due to damage. So, for $21 I received a box that had a new H3 bulb kit, new H7 bulb kit and both my H3's i had sent in. Box was in my hand in 4 business days. All, in all, less than one week turn-around, even when I had damaged one H3 bulb by running over a barrier at the racetrack. My experience with warranty returns at DDMtuning.com has been excellent. Bulbs went back in car today (glad i bought a back-up H7 kit initially, I was never down more than 20 minutes). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
starbai007 Posted February 5, 2011 Share Posted February 5, 2011 What's the longest people have seen these kits last? I did an OEM Retro to my old car with OEM components with e46 projectors and Phillips ballasts and they lasted for over 5 years without a problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Catalyst Posted February 5, 2011 Share Posted February 5, 2011 OEM should last last at least 5 years, if not 10+ no problem. But you're also paying $100+ just for the set of bulbs. Worth it, IMO though. "This is an adventure." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doccrowley Posted February 6, 2011 Share Posted February 6, 2011 Let's see here: $40 for lifetime guarantee DDM kit vs. $100 just for bulbs..... Not a fair comparison. I was looking for a solid upgrade from the stock piece-o-crap stock H7's and lame Sylvania H7 options @ AutoZone. I'm very happy I found this option. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamo Posted February 7, 2011 Share Posted February 7, 2011 Ordered a set of 55w 6000k H7's on Saturday. Can't wait to get them installed. Just to be clear, if I opt to NOT use the wiring harness, all I need to do is drill a 1" hole in the bulb covers, and plug the existing wiring into the ballasts, and then the new bulbs to the new ballasts? I've never installed HID's before, so please excuse my ignorance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doccrowley Posted February 7, 2011 Share Posted February 7, 2011 super easy install. 1" hole saw or spade bit plus another 1/4" drilled on edge of that 1" circle to pass large ballast connector thru dust cap. Wiring has a nice rubber grommet that will fit snugly into the hole you've made in dustcap. Wiring connector from back of stock bulb will take 2 connectors from HID wiring (blue was positive on mine), the rest is plug and play connectors that only connect one way. You'll see in the photos, it all makes sense. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTS Jeff Posted February 8, 2011 Share Posted February 8, 2011 Ordered a set of 55w 6000k H7's on Saturday. Can't wait to get them installed. Just to be clear, if I opt to NOT use the wiring harness, all I need to do is drill a 1" hole in the bulb covers, and plug the existing wiring into the ballasts, and then the new bulbs to the new ballasts? I've never installed HID's before, so please excuse my ignorance. Relay install raises the difficulty of install from 3/10 to 4/10. Don't be timid!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdAstra Posted February 8, 2011 Share Posted February 8, 2011 Is the relay necessary for 55 W installation? Has anyone actually melted wires without the relay? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phenryiv1 Posted February 8, 2011 Share Posted February 8, 2011 super easy install. 1" hole saw or spade bit plus another 1/4" drilled on edge of that 1" circle to pass large ballast connector thru dust cap. NO NO NO NO NO! You might have been lucky and had the 1" bit work, but that is NOT the right size for a proper seal. I used a 1" bit and had condensation issues that were a PITA to get rid of. I ended up having to open the caps, let it sit in direct sunlight on a low-humidity day for about 6-8 hours, then close it up and seal around the gromet with silicone caulk. 7/8" is the right size. Even 15/16" is too loose. Patrick Looking for spacers or adapters to install aftermarket speakers in the doors of your Legacy? CLICK HERE or PM me! http://www.carstereoadapters.com./ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sulk Posted February 8, 2011 Share Posted February 8, 2011 Is the relay necessary for 55 W installation? Has anyone actually melted wires without the relay? Been installed for around a year, and no issues with the 55w kit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Catalyst Posted February 9, 2011 Share Posted February 9, 2011 I'm just saying what OEM parts cost. I'm not pedaling them or even running them. DDM is still a great option, but nothing compares to OEM. Also DDM is getting out of the HID biz, so you might want to stock up on cheap replacements. Although they said they would be keeping a reserve of parts for warranty claims. "This is an adventure." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeraldG Posted February 10, 2011 Share Posted February 10, 2011 been installed for around a year, and no issues with the 55w kit. +1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psu_lgt Posted February 10, 2011 Share Posted February 10, 2011 finally ordered a 55w 5000k kit last night while at work. I figured that my silverstars would have another month or two since they average about 10 months. Start my car to leave work, passenger side bulb burns out. lol. oh well, looks like a cheap oem bulb until the kit arrives Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamo Posted February 13, 2011 Share Posted February 13, 2011 It got warm here in NE Ohio so I was able to do the install out in the garage. Everything went real smooth thanks to the helpful walkthroughs on this site. Testing in daylight looked great, so I taped everything up, zipped the ballasts down and went inside. Now I'm out running some errands and getting dinner I realized that both lights are flickering ever so slightly. It's barely noticeable until I'm sitting still and then it's pretty obvious. I have the 55w 6000K Apexcone Raptor kit and went plug and play, no harness. 2009 Legacy 2.5i DRL's still enabled. They fire up just fine and run normal, but they are flickering. Any ideas what could be causing this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamo Posted February 14, 2011 Share Posted February 14, 2011 Update: on the way home from dinner I noticed that only the right light was flickering. No change when applying throttle, so I know it's not a loose bulb. When I got home, about 5 minutes after staring the car, both lights were steady as a surgeons hand. This is my first experience with any type of HID, is it a warming process or something? Is it normal for the lights to flicker a bit after first starting up? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goneskiian Posted February 14, 2011 Share Posted February 14, 2011 Is there a walkthrough for converting the fogs? Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phenryiv1 Posted February 14, 2011 Share Posted February 14, 2011 Update: on the way home from dinner I noticed that only the right light was flickering. No change when applying throttle, so I know it's not a loose bulb. When I got home, about 5 minutes after staring the car, both lights were steady as a surgeons hand. This is my first experience with any type of HID, is it a warming process or something? Is it normal for the lights to flicker a bit after first starting up? Do they flicker if you use the lights while the car is in accessory and not running? You could have a bad ballast or bad bulb. Try swapping the bulbs from one side to the other. If the condition changes sides, it is the bulb. If not, it is either the current being supplied or the ballast. If the condition remains on the right side, try swapping the ballasts from one side to the other. If the condition moves, it is the ballast. If the condition does NOT move, you could have an inadequate power supply going to the 55W ballasts. The right-side light is farther from the battery, thus voltage/current drop may be causing inadequate current to get to the ballast. This could be the cause of the issue. Patrick Looking for spacers or adapters to install aftermarket speakers in the doors of your Legacy? CLICK HERE or PM me! http://www.carstereoadapters.com./ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kelven Posted February 14, 2011 Share Posted February 14, 2011 Update: on the way home from dinner I noticed that only the right light was flickering. No change when applying throttle, so I know it's not a loose bulb. When I got home, about 5 minutes after staring the car, both lights were steady as a surgeons hand. This is my first experience with any type of HID, is it a warming process or something? Is it normal for the lights to flicker a bit after first starting up? I have the same situation before; my setup is with hardness thou. After contact the support team, they suggest to swap the bulb to see any difference. The flickering has been gone--most of the time. I believe it is the bulb and/or power supply problem. The bulb still flicker when the car battery level is low; i.e. after start up, and/or a lot of electronic running at the same time. The latter case, the bulb would stop flicking after turning off defroster(s). I always have a feeling Subaru's OE Battery is not very strong. May be I should look into higher capacity battery soon! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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