WhatV8 Posted June 11, 2009 Share Posted June 11, 2009 Sounds promising. Thanx for explaining what else you have on your suspension, too. I was able to get my rear to step out on a couple of the corners of my local road course last year, but mainly understeer on the other corners. It would be interesting to see your setup would do on a road course, now you have a real reason to get on track with it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fzanetti Posted June 11, 2009 Share Posted June 11, 2009 Interesting setup using some factory parts to boot. shtbxr22, how does your car handle now (i.e.- understeer, neutral, oversteer)?? Also, have you had a chance to try it out on a road course/track? Reason I ask is how much you changed the ratio of the front to rear bars. I know that our cars are tuned toward understeer for safety sake, but I prefer a more neutral layout. Bringing the rear bar closer to the front bar stiffness will achive that, but going too far will bring to toward the oversteering realm. If you aren't ready for that you can get yourself in some trouble. When I bumped up the RSB on my SVO it brought it from understeer central to a nice even neutral setup, where I can steer with my throttle if I need to. That would be nice to replicate on my 2.5i. A car from the factory should be either be "balanced" or "neutral", or have a tendency for oversteer or understeer. In most cases, as you said, regular drivers can handle an understeer a lot better than an oversteer. So, most street driven vehicles, especially ones that aren't meant for performance, normally have a tendency for understeer... ;-) Flavio Zanetti Boston, MA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shtbxr22 Posted June 11, 2009 Author Share Posted June 11, 2009 My car as stock had a tendency to drive like a truck. also, I grew up driving a chevelle, so I like a little taste of oversteer on occasion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THE RZA Posted June 15, 2009 Share Posted June 15, 2009 25 is pretty beefy. I went with the 22 front and 19 rear kit from rallitek and even there i noticed a huge differance Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N.sane Posted July 4, 2009 Share Posted July 4, 2009 I think I'll do this in the future. What year Forester are the endlinks? I'll probably get them from Group A. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shtbxr22 Posted July 4, 2009 Author Share Posted July 4, 2009 I think the years are 03-08. i'll check on monday Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrownBoy Posted July 5, 2009 Share Posted July 5, 2009 No issues with the bar hitting exhaust components or anything right? If there is absolutely no issues, I will definitely be ordering this bar to go w/ my rear sway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shtbxr22 Posted July 5, 2009 Author Share Posted July 5, 2009 nope, it's been on for two months. no noise whatsoever. works for 05-09 2.5i with no problem. just gotta remember to trim the bushing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N.sane Posted July 5, 2009 Share Posted July 5, 2009 I think the years are 03-08. i'll check on monday Cool, thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrownBoy Posted July 6, 2009 Share Posted July 6, 2009 nope, it's been on for two months. no noise whatsoever. works for 05-09 2.5i with no problem. just gotta remember to trim the bushing. I was actually thinking about ordering some aftermarket swaybar bushings. That will probably work better than the soft rubber OEM bushings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shtbxr22 Posted July 6, 2009 Author Share Posted July 6, 2009 just make sure to order them for a tribeca. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shtbxr22 Posted July 6, 2009 Author Share Posted July 6, 2009 I can't get a range of years, so just get them for an 05. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N.sane Posted July 7, 2009 Share Posted July 7, 2009 ^ is that refering to the rear Forester endlinks? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shtbxr22 Posted July 7, 2009 Author Share Posted July 7, 2009 ^ is that refering to the rear Forester endlinks? yep. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shtbxr22 Posted July 7, 2009 Author Share Posted July 7, 2009 actually. just use the part #'s I have posted up. lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N.sane Posted July 7, 2009 Share Posted July 7, 2009 well, reason why I'm asking is I want to get aftermarket ones (Group A) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shtbxr22 Posted July 7, 2009 Author Share Posted July 7, 2009 have you seen the stock ones? they are pretty burly. if you must, then you must. I think the only weak link in this setup would be the bushings, but I don't know where you can score poly tribeca bushings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N.sane Posted July 8, 2009 Share Posted July 8, 2009 No, I haven't seen them. Just thought aftermarket would be more durable. You can probably get some poly bushings from here as long as the sway bar bracket is of comparable size to stock: http://www.energysuspension.com/pages/swaybbct.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shtbxr22 Posted July 8, 2009 Author Share Posted July 8, 2009 nice bushings. they look like they could work. check out the forester link on the first page installed. FWIW I have never replaced a rear sway link on a forester from being worn. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CDN 2.5i Posted July 9, 2009 Share Posted July 9, 2009 Is the reason you need the new endlinks the length of the endlink or the orientation, eg, need both ends to have bolt come out same side? I have aftermarket endlinks already which I can orient as I choose because they use loose bolts... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shtbxr22 Posted July 9, 2009 Author Share Posted July 9, 2009 the stock links are "S" shaped, and the forester links are "C" shaped. the reason being the bar is a bit wider. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CDN 2.5i Posted July 10, 2009 Share Posted July 10, 2009 ok, that might actually work really well with my MSI endlinks... As long as the vertical length of the endlink is similar... I had to get a retrofit kit for the endlinks, basically a spacer, to increase the effective width.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CDN 2.5i Posted July 10, 2009 Share Posted July 10, 2009 Here's some old pics of my MSI's with the 'fit kit'. Switching to the B9 bar would mean I could probably do away with the spacer... That alone would tighten it up a bit. http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m194/star91281/0507091616.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CDN 2.5i Posted July 10, 2009 Share Posted July 10, 2009 Also, shtbxr22, is your bar upside down? Judging from my pics, it would appear that it is... Does it matter? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shtbxr22 Posted July 10, 2009 Author Share Posted July 10, 2009 Also, shtbxr22, is your bar upside down? Judging from my pics, it would appear that it is... Does it matter? looks like the links may work. also, the bar isn't upside down. the tribeca bar goes over the tierod whereas the legacy/outback goes under. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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