scoobydoobie Posted April 30, 2009 Share Posted April 30, 2009 How much did it cost you guys to have them PnP and coated w/ the X-pipe. Because I have an extra set of manifolds lying around and really want to do this. I got a set of slightly used GS PnP manifolds, crossover pipe, and UP, all coated for $300 shipped. Couldn't pass that up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silverstar Posted April 30, 2009 Share Posted April 30, 2009 I just installed my manifold and cross pipe the other day and do not hear any abnormal sounds...though I did double wrap the flex section...I also had a pretty bad exhuast leak on my stock cross pipe. The remflex gasket had blown out in about a 1" section!!! with a gasket that thick, there was a huge hole! Remflex FTL! By the way, I have a set of remflex gaskets for sale if anyone is interested! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScoobySTi07 Posted April 30, 2009 Share Posted April 30, 2009 The remflex gasket had blown out in about a 1" section!!! with a gasket that thick, there was a huge hole! Remflex FTL! By the way, I have a set of remflex gaskets for sale if anyone is interested!OEM FTW for the thousandth time Oh and Grimmspeed is taking good care of me and is shipping me out another crosspipe once they get them back in stock. Hopefully they can take the one I've got now apart or something and figure out what causes the noise. The Ridiculousness is no more But you can have your very own piece of it. **The Ridiculous Part Out.** Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snow05gtRI Posted April 30, 2009 Share Posted April 30, 2009 hmm lemme know how it turns out. i'm curious as to what causes the noise too....hoping its not a manufacturing defect. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caramall2 Posted May 10, 2009 Share Posted May 10, 2009 EGT: Did any of you get the EGT tap, and if so, what size bolt do I need to plug it? I have the question in to Grimmspeed too. The tap is on the driverside manifold, and it appears to fit a 3/8" fine thread bolt. I though it was supposed to be 1/4", but not sure. Just don't want to screw up the threads. Wrapping: Would it be bad for the flex section to wrap it? Sounds like some of you have done so. I think I'll try the whole cross pipe without wrapping, though it would be nice to further protect the oil filter, pan, etc, from heat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snow05gtRI Posted May 10, 2009 Share Posted May 10, 2009 i dont see why it would be bad to wrap the flex section. I didn't spray my wrap so it's not solid, so the flex section will still be able to move when it really needs to. the wrap is flexible. i started off without wrapping it, and then had it wrapped without removing it from the car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRS Posted May 10, 2009 Share Posted May 10, 2009 I didn't wrap the cross pipe per se, I used an exhaust jacket on it since the stock heat shield doesn't fit back over over the larger flex section and I wanted to keep heat away from the very close-by oil filter. http://www.thermotec.com/upload/20070703085253_8056_11246.jpg http://www.thermotec.com/high-velocity-exhaust-jackets.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fonts Posted May 10, 2009 Share Posted May 10, 2009 EGT: Did any of you get the EGT tap, and if so, what size bolt do I need to plug it? I have the question in to Grimmspeed too. The tap is on the driverside manifold, and it appears to fit a 3/8" fine thread bolt. I though it was supposed to be 1/4", but not sure. Just don't want to screw up the threads. I got the EGT tap. No issue at all. Fit perfect with the plug that came with the EGT guage and sensor. Can't recall the size though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scoobydoobie Posted May 14, 2009 Share Posted May 14, 2009 Back to wrapping the COP.. Just found this on NASIOC from Grimmspeed saying NOT to wrap the flex section: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showpost.php?p=26625609&postcount=100 thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snow05gtRI Posted May 14, 2009 Share Posted May 14, 2009 hmm....I'll have to email them to ask about it, as I think wrapping the flex section is the way to get rid of that nasty noise the COP makes. I wish he gave some reasons more than just stating not to do it. I wouldn't think it would be bad to wrap a flex section unless you wrap it too tight that it loses its purpose of flexing. Sending them an email now, though I won't get a response till tomorrow because it's after business hours. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scoobydoobie Posted May 14, 2009 Share Posted May 14, 2009 Cool, let us know what you find out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mega Users LieutenantDan Posted May 14, 2009 Mega Users Share Posted May 14, 2009 I don't think exhaust wrap is going to impede that from flexing under those crazy temps and pressures. It might make it more likely to rust if moisture gets trapped under there because each of those steel threads makes up a lot of possible surface area to get rusted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caramall2 Posted May 14, 2009 Share Posted May 14, 2009 +1 on the moisture. You not going to prevent "flexing". If you look inside, the outer SS mesh is just for looks to cover the "corregated" looking flex section inside (at least that's the typical construction). If you wrap this area, and you get a lot of moisture on it, it could hold it in and I assume prematurely rust it. A bit less likely on the solid pipe part if you wrap it fairly tight and coat it with high temp coating/paint. I think the biggest "problems" with wrapping are when you do it at a weld joint, etc, and the uneven expansion ends up cracking it. If this is true, that would be another problem with wrapping the weld joints at the flex connection. But I'm certainly no expert. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snow05gtRI Posted May 15, 2009 Share Posted May 15, 2009 on the rusting....shouldn't high quality stainless steel not rust besides some basic surface rust? i have heard a similar thing for wrapping my AEM intake tube (wrap trapping moisture) but that is aluminum I believe.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted May 15, 2009 Share Posted May 15, 2009 I'm still trying to figure out what this noise "is". Don't have it on mine - which includes the COP and UP (both with GS flex joint) - and have been running for some time with no issues - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snow05gtRI Posted May 15, 2009 Share Posted May 15, 2009 they told me that it happens to 1 or 2 out of 10 orders i guess. you might have one that doesnt have it. something like that almost leads me to think it's a leak or something...something off in the manufacturing process. i dunno. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caramall2 Posted May 15, 2009 Share Posted May 15, 2009 "Bending" the coated, flex UP (Grimmspeed brand): How far can you "bend" this with out hurting anything? My UP/manifold connection is about 1/2" off. I've bolted the UP in place to the turbo already (that's a bit of a pain so I wanted that solid), now doing the UP to manifold connection. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted May 15, 2009 Share Posted May 15, 2009 There was a previous comment in this thread (IIRC) about GS making a some of the UPes too short. If you have to "stretch" the flex section that much to "pull" it to your manifold, it may be one of the short ones. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caramall2 Posted May 15, 2009 Share Posted May 15, 2009 No, I think I just need to "shove it" left or right 1/2" laterally Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snow05gtRI Posted May 15, 2009 Share Posted May 15, 2009 got a response about wrapping the flex section: The main problem is that the wrap retains too much heat so if the flex section can't breathe it could deteriorate. You should be ok for a pretty long time but it will eventually cause premature failure of the piece. good to know, guess I'll keep it in mind. My only problem is this means I shouldn't have it wrapped...I mean I plan on driving this car for a long time, but wrapping it gets rid of that noise.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scoobydoobie Posted May 15, 2009 Share Posted May 15, 2009 alrighty. guess I won't be wrapping the flex sections then. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keysersoze Posted May 17, 2009 Share Posted May 17, 2009 I can't see the noise issue being limited to this kind of header set up. Have people heard this tick after installing aftermarket headers? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scoobydoobie Posted May 17, 2009 Share Posted May 17, 2009 I can't see the noise issue being limited to this kind of header set up. Have people heard this tick after installing aftermarket headers? I would think it could happen with other headers. BTW, welcome to the dark side, recognize your handle from SF.org Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rurouni_x Posted June 1, 2009 Share Posted June 1, 2009 quick question for you guys with this piece, Only the exits and entrances are PnPed right or is it all the way through the bends too? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scoobydoobie Posted June 1, 2009 Share Posted June 1, 2009 quick question for you guys with this piece, Only the exits and entrances are PnPed right or is it all the way through the bends too? From grimmspeeds website: Our Subaru boxer engines kill our spool up time, most notably because of the very long pre-turbo exhaust tract(exhaust manifold, up pipe). To directly combat this loss of spool up we will port and polish all 9 inlets/outlets of your 3 piece exhaust manifold. We enlarge each port to match up with the stock subaru gaskets, porting 6-7mm of material at the entrance/outlet of each port and then tapering down into the port. This takes out the large steps in flow and smoothes out the port to port connections. Every piece is perfect matched to eachother for optimal flow. http://www.grimmspeed.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=21&products_id=99 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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