scoobydoobie Posted January 13, 2009 Share Posted January 13, 2009 where did you find the Manifolds, Crossover, and UP all for $300? I've been looking to buy this package for awhile and might pull the trigger if that's the price you're finding.... I found a slightly used set from a member on subaruforester.org. About 4K miles on the manifold/COP and less than 1K on the UP. You can save alot of money buying used exhaust parts. I got everything in this picture (other than the HS and gaskets, which I bought new) for $725 total looking for used parts: http://img73.imageshack.us/img73/6311/every01rc9.jpg rubberman, looking forward to seeing the results/reading your impressions with your set up once everything's on and tuned. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rubberman Posted January 14, 2009 Author Share Posted January 14, 2009 I got bling for my Legacy now bishes! Added wrapped & sprayed crossover pipe pics to the first post. Almost looks more gold than copper, I might have sprayed it too much. Those ordinary stainless clamps really look different now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fonts Posted January 14, 2009 Share Posted January 14, 2009 Very nice. Pics look great. I ordered the PNP exhaust manifolds and crossover pipe from Grimmspeed as well. Likely won't install them until temperatures up here warm up a bit first. Also running the Grimmspeed coated UP for the last year or so. Very happy with the piece. Now I guess I have to contemplate whether or not to wrap the crossover pipe ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rubberman Posted January 14, 2009 Author Share Posted January 14, 2009 lol, this thread has turned into the GUT (grand unified theory - physics theory explaining the universe) of all Legacy mods. It explains everything including coating the turbo, turbo options, exhaust manifolds, transmission fluid, stick on cooling fins, used parts... Did I miss anything else? This had been a good day, this thread kept me entertained and I was actually fairly productive, although I was stuck counting beans, er I mean pennies for stupid material cost estimates. I went to school to learn how to design/destroy stuff, not be a bean counter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Insurgent Posted January 14, 2009 Share Posted January 14, 2009 to those who have installed this setup (or any p&p/coated option for that matter) i'm guessing you are able to reuse the stock heatshield on the elbows but likely not the xpipe. how much do you guys think the stock heatshields help with radiant heat to other nearby components vs. wrapped/spraying? i believe i read somewhere someone had too much radiant heat on their water pump or something down there and had to have it replaced. cant remember if the person even had anything to help w/ radiant heat though. ie stock heatshield, wrap, spray. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted January 14, 2009 Share Posted January 14, 2009 Right now I'm running mine with just the coating. Haven't noticed anything unusual and I think this is the first mention of any issues with the water pump.. May pull them off and see if I can reinstall the heat sheilds on the EM elbows. Definitely won't fit over the GS COP. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frkkevin Posted January 14, 2009 Share Posted January 14, 2009 To comment on the 5EAT holding up on power.. I've seen more die with that quick spool your wanting than with larger turbos and more power I run an FP red + 100% alcky.. and I'm 5EAT 512whp/465ftlb 2005 5EAT Legacy (Build Log) Videos - - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rubberman Posted January 15, 2009 Author Share Posted January 15, 2009 Several of you have mentioned running Grimmspeed parts (coated manifolds &/or COP). Did you find the need to adjust the wastegate arm 1 full turn as recommended on the GS website? For those of you wondering why I am asking, there's a sentence mentioning this in the GS site desc for controlling overboosting with the higher flow: http://www.grimmspeed.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=21&products_id=102&osCsid=tq5suonlv4jb1dq30t42andmi0 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted January 15, 2009 Share Posted January 15, 2009 ^ Nope - first I'd heard of it. Will ask HBS when I get it tuned. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimmSpeed Posted January 15, 2009 Share Posted January 15, 2009 Several of you have mentioned running Grimmspeed parts (coated manifolds &/or COP). Did you find the need to adjust the wastegate arm 1 full turn as recommended on the GS website? For those of you wondering why I am asking, there's a sentence mentioning this in the GS site desc for controlling overboosting with the higher flow: http://www.grimmspeed.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=21&products_id=102&osCsid=tq5suonlv4jb1dq30t42andmi0 This is something that we have seen very few cases of and can happen with any aftermarket exhaust manifold. Its nothing to worry about and usually only equates to an extra psi or so. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scoobydoobie Posted January 16, 2009 Share Posted January 16, 2009 rubberman, did you install these yet? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rubberman Posted January 16, 2009 Author Share Posted January 16, 2009 rubberman, did you install these yet? GS parts are going in tonight, will post pictures once installed. I've been working late each day hence the delay. I also started hammering on the gas some to calibrate my butt dyno to judge the difference before/after. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rubberman Posted January 16, 2009 Author Share Posted January 16, 2009 This is something that we have seen very few cases of and can happen with any aftermarket exhaust manifold. Its nothing to worry about and usually only equates to an extra psi or so. Mike Mike - thanks for the info. I forgot to ask Rich about this when I called to place my order, I think I asked him just about every question under the sun except about that. I figured boost-wise it would only be a small amount of difference, but wanted to check and see if anyone even had to do any wastegate adjustments. The parts look really good, one heatshield bolt hole had a bolt snapped off in it. I originally asked for parts without any sheared bolts, but after thinking about it I don't think I'm going to even bother with the heatshields on these. I just can't bare covering up that ceramic coating. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rubberman Posted January 19, 2009 Author Share Posted January 19, 2009 I installed everything Sat morning. Install was pretty straightforward, although I did not reinstall the stock heat shields at this time. In retrospect, I think that I will pick up some more Thermotec black spray and spray each of the manifold elbow heat shields and reinstall them. There is noticably less heat coming off the manifolds, but further preventing any un-needed heat radiation is really my goal. Wastegate adjustment & target boost: I did not notice any change in the max boost level achieved, several WOT 3rd gear runs yielded a max of 16.8psi which is right inline with the Cobb stage 2 targets. Ticking Sound: I do notice the ticking sound with the crossover pipe. It is very pronounced at first, and sounds like a Singer sewing maching on steroids! The exhaust wrap and wrap spray coating seemingly needs time to fully cure with heat. After driving approx. 100 miles over the weekend, the sound is still there when the engine is slightly loaded, my guess is the exhaust wrap is further dampening the ticking sound now that it's been through a few heat cycles. My Cobb intake pretty much covers up the ticking sound now, but you can hear it under slight engine load. I tried to get a few small videos using my digital camera, but the mic doesn't pick up the crossover pipe, only the Cobb intake. I haven't put the plastic underpan back on yet, I wanted to doublecheck the bolts and retorque everything after driving some. I suspect that I am hearing some sound due to the simple reflection of noises off the pavement and back toward the car, will report back on that. Turning the radio up to a low to moderate level covers it up, so isn't pronounced now. Power & Engine Response: I do notice a little bit more smoothness to the motor down low when steadily accelerating at maybe 25% throttle. I don't feel a huge bump in power, but I suspect this is a mod that dyno tuning is needed to really take advantage of. I'll add pictures of the installed parts tonight as well as the smoking exhaust wrap. That stuff stinks when out-gassing. A guy at the gas station kept looking over at me because of the smoke coming out from the grill. He looked a bit anxious about what was going on. Overall, I am happy with the GS parts. Installed Pictures: I took various angles so that everyone could see the clearances and proximity to the oil filter. I need to create another web page and put all of my full size images on there in case someone want to see the big pictures, I can only upload 1024x768 images to this site. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caramall2 Posted January 19, 2009 Share Posted January 19, 2009 Enjoyed reading the thread...thanks rubberman. Heat shielding: Cool (no pun intended) to hear about the stick on aluminum fins. Just a couple other ideas...when I put on ceramic coated headers, I put some heat shielding/reflective wrap at some key areas where the pipes were close to things like the oil filter, etc. I put it on the part I wanted to protect, not on the pipe of course. This included both sticky-backed reflective protective material, and the reflective/insulating pieces for hoses or wires I was concerned about. I also have an aluminum skid plate which I think helps...it doesn't melt, it conducts the heat "away", and it has some cooling vent openings (I put wire mesh over most of these to prevent rocks, etc., from kicking up in there). Power: I think with our little stock turbo, you can squeeze out things like 20, 30, maybe 40 hp more with a full load of aftermarket parts (and I'm not talking alky or anything) and a good tune, but gains from individual mods aren't going to be "big". For that, you really have to upgrade the turbo, injectors, etc. I'm not saying that the smaller mods aren't worth it put together (I like having 30-40 hp over stock, etc.), but you do have to spend a fair amount of $ to get a small overall increase. I'm already Stg 2 with CBE, and I'm having an AVO380 installed this week and I think that will be where I stop on the power mods. (I realize AVO380 doesn't give big power gains (many other turbos for that which give much more top-end power per $), but I want some power increase with the reliability of ball-bearings and stock-like spool.) I have headers now, but thinking about Grimmspeed for no other reason but durability--we'll see how long my ceramic coated MR Headers last. I do really like their integrated UP and flex connection for ease of installation...also, there are no joints to worry about leaking other than the manifold connection to the engine and the UP/turbo connection. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snow05gtRI Posted January 19, 2009 Share Posted January 19, 2009 is the ticking from the COP itself, or is it just now more pronounced because the stock small COP isn't muffling the noise of the engine? I notice from outside the car the engine has a slight tick to it, so i'm wondering if it's now just amplified by the less restrictive part. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rubberman Posted January 19, 2009 Author Share Posted January 19, 2009 is the ticking from the COP itself, or is it just now more pronounced because the stock small COP isn't muffling the noise of the engine? I notice from outside the car the engine has a slight tick to it, so i'm wondering if it's now just amplified by the less restrictive part. The only slight ticking sounds that my car had previously was some valve noise. This sound is most definitely not like valve tick. It is more pronounced and different sounding. Driving home today from work I didn't even notice it since it has become very subdued now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted January 21, 2009 Share Posted January 21, 2009 Thanks for the pictures and the review/writeup. Think I'll likely go with some wrap to further decrease under-engine external temps, but I have yet to hear any ticking with my GS setup. Not even sure what would cause it. So it's not just expanding/contracting metal like you sometimes hear from elsewhere in the exhaust system? - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rubberman Posted January 21, 2009 Author Share Posted January 21, 2009 So it's not just expanding/contracting metal like you sometimes hear from elsewhere in the exhaust system? The ticking sounds that I hear are not a metal contraction / expansion sound at all. It's a pronounced ticking sound that has a high frequency (as in many taps per second). It doesn't matter if the car is warm after driving 10 miles or if it was started up. Grimmspeed told me not to wrap the flex joint, but according to others on nasioc they had to wrap the flex joint to resolve it. That's most likely what I will do to test it out and judge the difference. I'll try to get a video of it using my video camera since the mic should be more sensitive to the sound and post it on here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted January 24, 2009 Share Posted January 24, 2009 I'm stumped as to what could be contributing to the "ticking". Mine's not doing it yet, and hopefully won't. Good idea on the video - please post/link it when you get it done - this has me really curious. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kirbwrx Posted January 31, 2009 Share Posted January 31, 2009 will i notice a difference with just the x-over pipe or would i need the whole setup to feel it. would i notice a bigger difference overall with a tune? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rubberman Posted January 31, 2009 Author Share Posted January 31, 2009 will i notice a difference with just the x-over pipe or would i need the whole setup to feel it. would i notice a bigger difference overall with a tune? I'd say that you'd need the PnP manifolds, x-pipe, and a tune to maximize & get the greatest overall benefits. It feels like a very slight difference to me now, more in the way that the turbo spools. I plan to have my car protuned in the next few weeks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted January 31, 2009 Share Posted January 31, 2009 I'd go with the whole kit from the manifolds to the turbo. No sense necking down the flow when you don't have to, i.e., @ the manifolds or @ the UP. Flow feels much more potent with everything "bored out" to the same internal diameters. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kirbwrx Posted February 1, 2009 Share Posted February 1, 2009 what about the whole pnp set using the stock pnp xpipe? would it be a huge difference? just curious if the extra $150 is worth it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted February 1, 2009 Share Posted February 1, 2009 what about the whole pnp set using the stock pnp xpipe? would it be a huge difference? just curious if the extra $150 is worth it See my post #48 above. I don't believe there is an option for the P&P for the stock COP. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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