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testes1010's '05 LGT Mod thread.


testes1010

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So are you using the OEM EBCS at lower throttle settings, and the MBC at higher ones?

 

If so you are trying for 17 psi with the stock turbo, it obviously doesn't acheive it (just like the guys that do a hybrid type MBC on there STIs), but you are essentially maxxing out the turbo at higher rpm.

 

I have no specific requests right now, but once you switch to a bigger turbo I might have a few.

 

Nope, I just using the MBC. The lines to the stock BCS have been disconnected & the one back to the inlet plugged.

 

At the moment the turbo is peaking at 16.5-17psi then tapering to ~13.5psi toward redline, as you said essentially maxing the turbo efficiency out in the higher RPM range.

 

As you eluded to, the stock turbo(too small of a hotside) is definitely not going to hold 17psi at redline on a 2.5L but as the exhaust flows a bit better after the UP/DP change I expect the 13.5psi to raise a bit more. Even most TD06H-20G'd 2.5L engine taper toward redline a bit(1-2psig depending on the max pressure target).

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Never thought of the "hybrid MBC" way of doing things?

 

yup, I seen ride5000's thread on NASIOC along time ago on the hybrid method. I think it great for combating PTFB but I was used to driving w/ a MBC on the WRX so it just as easy for me to leave it w/ just the MBC.

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Noob question, would using a hybrid MBC eliminate some of the drivability issues? What are the advantages?

 

It'll eliminate the PTFB(partial throttle full boost which tuned improperly could cause some lean out issues) associated w/ a MBC, and it would retain your lower WGD%(depending on how your map is setup) for daily driving.

 

Bascially the ONLY time the MBC would be used would be in the last column of your WGD% table(essentially 100% TPS / WOT).

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  • 2 weeks later...

some new(used) parts:

 

- Crucial P&P&C manifolds

- Grimmspeed x-pipe

- Crucial Uppipe

- Crucial DP

- Crucial racepipe

 

All are wrapped, they're warning up in the house before I hi-temp silicone spray the wrap. After that I'll wrap the whole pipe in super thick aluminum foil. I know sounds ghetto, but the function will what its about.

 

http://www.wrxfanatics.com/uploads/monthly_12_2008/post-367-1228667627.jpg

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i noticed your avcs is completely flat @ 8.09, why's this?

 

the AVCS is stock, the Knock Correction/Timing Advance is flat at 8.09. This was the way that I started tuning before they had the FBKC & FLKC defined. If the KC isn't logged as 8, knock is detected.

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http://www.wrxfanatics.com/uploads/monthly_12_2008/post-367-1228918929.jpg

 

+

 

http://www.wrxfanatics.com/uploads/monthly_12_2008/post-367-1228918915.jpg

 

=

http://www.wrxfanatics.com/uploads/monthly_12_2008/post-367-1228918922.jpg

 

 

Its function over form. The zipties are temporary until I get some safety wire or large worm clamps.

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Assuming you have done this before.

 

How long does it last?

 

I've done this on my TD05H-20G on the WRX, the aluminum pans on the turbo was still in good condition when I sold the WRX, however they were protected by the elements by the stock heatshield. The pans had been on there +2yrs.

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:lol: Very resourceful. I may steal this idea for my own car.

+1

 

Dude no kidding that looks like a great effing idea, and cuts the cost of the expensive shield wraps.

2008 6mt Legacy Gt Spec B DGM - Not so Stock/Work in progress

2006 5mt Legacy Gt OBP - Sold

2005 5eat Legacy Gt OBP - RIP

 

R.I.P Coxx

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http://www.wrxfanatics.com/uploads/monthly_12_2008/post-367-1228918929.jpg

 

+

 

http://www.wrxfanatics.com/uploads/monthly_12_2008/post-367-1228918915.jpg

 

=

http://www.wrxfanatics.com/uploads/monthly_12_2008/post-367-1228918922.jpg

 

 

Its function over form. The zipties are temporary until I get some safety wire or large worm clamps.

 

Harbor Freight has/had some nice stainless "zip ties" I got in case any on my APS need reinforcement.

 

BTW, you know your stuff. I paid $300 for the special APS wrap kit for my headers, what you're doing will work just as well, if not better. My only comment would have to do with water drainage, but I'm sure you've thought of that.

 

Also, FWIW, I have been using HD aluminum foil for some time as shielding on my DP. It hasn't deteriorated in two years so far. What you're using is far superior to that and should have no expiration date. I got the idea a long time ago from someone who posted about using it for years on their headers successfully. Made sense to me. I've already determined that if/when my APS system fails the "next time" for me will be done exactly as you have shown.

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Testes, I know your home made map is hella agressive. I'm curious, who do you use (company-wise) for gas and do you run any octane booster?

 

I generally use BP/Amoco non-E10 93 or Sunoco non-E10 93. No octane booster, most of its garbage anyways.

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