VXCL Posted June 19, 2009 Share Posted June 19, 2009 finally i came across this. i always thought it was weird no one was trimming stops when lowering. i am convinced my jdm rev a's are constantly bottoming out because of the prova springs on decent bumps. feels exactly like when my upper control arm on my acura was slamming into the top of the fender!! MAYHEM #122/22 STS NNJR SCCA AUTOX4U.COM XENON RETRO GUIDE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted June 21, 2009 Share Posted June 21, 2009 I just cut mine down to the bevel on the top of the center segment. Still think it could stand to be cut down to the half-way point, or even to the top of the bottom segment with the Swift Wagon Springs. But will keep it like this for a while. May possibly pickup a different set from Miles. Take about 1/4-1/2" off your rear chassis bump stop (up above the suspension bits) and you'll definitely feel the difference. No more hobby-horsing at all. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted June 21, 2009 Share Posted June 21, 2009 On performance lowering springs, you don't truly feel the tremendous improvement in ride comfort and control from the Bilsteins until you do the bump stop cut-down. It's a world of difference. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TPLGT Posted June 21, 2009 Share Posted June 21, 2009 The top part of my Swifts (rears) are compressing so much they are bottom out and making noise. You can see the paint wearing away. The tech is putting in a wrap to see of this stops the noise (making a clunking noise at slow speeds over bumps and uneven ground). I need to do this bump stop mod...I suspect it will help. The whole car is definitaly NOT bottoming but the rears are certainly under some pressure. Thanks for putting this walk together. Rehab is for quitters. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buru Posted June 23, 2009 Share Posted June 23, 2009 hhhmm interesting Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted June 23, 2009 Share Posted June 23, 2009 The top part of my Swifts (rears) are compressing so much they are bottom out and making noise. You can see the paint wearing away. The tech is putting in a wrap to see of this stops the noise (making a clunking noise at slow speeds over bumps and uneven ground). I need to do this bump stop mod...I suspect it will help. The whole car is definitaly NOT bottoming but the rears are certainly under some pressure. Thanks for putting this walk together. Are you running on stock struts, Bilsteins or something else? The Swifts were made specifically for the Bilsteins so that would cause me concern if they are rubbing/clacking from compression on the Bs. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P06781 Posted June 23, 2009 Share Posted June 23, 2009 Ok sounds like this only for Bilsteins right. I decided to get Koni's and have swifts installed already. Is there any benifit to cut the rear bump stops to get more travel with Konis? From what I read this is not possible on the fronts if using Koni's correct? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TPLGT Posted June 23, 2009 Share Posted June 23, 2009 Are you running on stock struts, Bilsteins or something else? The Swifts were made specifically for the Bilsteins so that would cause me concern if they are rubbing/clacking from compression on the Bs. The Swifts are on Bilsteins. JDM Spec B Rev As. The top of the passenger rear spring seems to be compressing into each other. There is chipped paint on the top 2 coils. the dealer ordered some rubber coil protectors so hopefully that will help. We'll see.... Rehab is for quitters. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTTuner Posted June 24, 2009 Share Posted June 24, 2009 The top part of my Swifts (rears) are compressing so much they are bottom out and making noise. You can see the paint wearing away. The tech is putting in a wrap to see of this stops the noise (making a clunking noise at slow speeds over bumps and uneven ground). I need to do this bump stop mod...I suspect it will help. The whole car is definitaly NOT bottoming but the rears are certainly under some pressure. Thanks for putting this walk together. I would strongly recomend NOT cutting the rear bump stops for the rear control arms. This will cause those springs to compress more and would amplify yor problem. If your going to install insulators similar to what I have seen on STi pinks it should fix the problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteyjr Posted June 24, 2009 Share Posted June 24, 2009 You cannot cut the bumpstops on Koni's , only with the Bilstein inverted strut design. Ok sounds like this only for Bilsteins right. I decided to get Koni's and have swifts installed already. Is there any benifit to cut the rear bump stops to get more travel with Konis? From what I read this is not possible on the fronts if using Koni's correct? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBCLegacy Posted July 6, 2009 Share Posted July 6, 2009 I did this today with a Bilstein strut/H&R spring combo; used a little heat to free up the screw ends and everything worked great! I'm really happy with the results: rides great, sits great, looks great! I'll get to the point-- Thanks for the write up on this, you saved me a lot of trouble in the long run, all was greatly appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hugo L. Posted July 14, 2009 Share Posted July 14, 2009 Wow, I always thought that Bilsteins were high pressure gas shocks (well, some are, one off my 4Runner blew in my face - wasn't funny). Myabe I should do that. Spec B Bilsteins + S-Techs = not as planted as it should. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sleeper8406 Posted July 21, 2009 Share Posted July 21, 2009 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atwood Posted August 3, 2009 Share Posted August 3, 2009 I have USDM Spec B struts and tried removing the strut tube to get to the bump stop...the flat head screw is stubborn in removing the strut and was starting to flare out. Did anyone have the same problem? Or can the tube be removed from the Spec B Bilstein struts? Any help is much appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted August 4, 2009 Share Posted August 4, 2009 Are you turning the screw clockwise to loosen? It's counter-intuitive I know, but to get it loosened, you have to turn it clockwise. Righty loosey in this case, with lots of PB Blaster and possible heat/torch - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atwood Posted August 5, 2009 Share Posted August 5, 2009 Thanks, I've been lefsy loosy-ing all this time Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sashadg1 Posted August 17, 2009 Share Posted August 17, 2009 Let me understand this, there is not pressure in the strut that will blow it apart when you do this? this worries me death Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hanslo Posted November 12, 2009 Share Posted November 12, 2009 I just cut mine down to the bevel on the top of the center segment. Still think it could stand to be cut down to the half-way point, or even to the top of the bottom segment with the Swift Wagon Springs. But will keep it like this for a while. May possibly pickup a different set from Miles. Take about 1/4-1/2" off your rear chassis bump stop (up above the suspension bits) and you'll definitely feel the difference. No more hobby-horsing at all. Bumping an old thread : Is the internal diameter of your specB/bilstein bump stop uniform through the whole length? I have a GT and the front strut bump stop looks a lot like the OEM bump stop in the pic posted by RCE (see pic below). I cut my bump stop in half and found out that the ID of the softer half (first two progressions) is wider than the strut shaft. It just falls to the bottom of the shaft and can move and spin freely. The ID on the firmer half (third and fourth progressions) fits snugly on the strut shaft. Hanslo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted November 12, 2009 Share Posted November 12, 2009 Bumping an old thread : Is the internal diameter of your specB/bilstein bump stop uniform through the whole length? I have a GT and the front strut bump stop looks a lot like the OEM bump stop in the pic posted by RCE (see pic below). I cut my bump stop in half and found out that the ID of the softer half (first two progressions) is wider than the strut shaft. It just falls to the bottom of the shaft and can move and spin freely. The ID on the firmer half (third and fourth progressions) fits snugly on the strut shaft. Hanslo Yes the Bilstein internal bumpstolp is uniform width through the whole length. I presume you cut your stocker down to accomodate lowering springs? - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CDN 2.5i Posted November 12, 2009 Share Posted November 12, 2009 Your struts look to be KYBs... I'm not sure how this mod works on them? Bumping an old thread : Is the internal diameter of your specB/bilstein bump stop uniform through the whole length? I have a GT and the front strut bump stop looks a lot like the OEM bump stop in the pic posted by RCE (see pic below). I cut my bump stop in half and found out that the ID of the softer half (first two progressions) is wider than the strut shaft. It just falls to the bottom of the shaft and can move and spin freely. The ID on the firmer half (third and fourth progressions) fits snugly on the strut shaft. Hanslo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hanslo Posted November 12, 2009 Share Posted November 12, 2009 I am preparing to swap out for Eibach pro springs on stock (KYB) shocks. The bumper is much easier to remove on the front KYBs than on the bilsteins. I cut them in half before I realized the ID wasn't uniform. I have purchased some ground control soft progressive bump stops for comparison. I'm actually trying to get ahold of another pair of stock bump stops for more experimentation so if anyone has an extra pair they can part with cheaply I would be interested. I plan to post my measurements and observations when I get some data. Thanks, Hanslo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_sharp Posted July 11, 2010 Share Posted July 11, 2010 So this should be done for front only? Or front and rear? For most sports springs, the front gets a significant drop and the rear is small in comparison. Also, should extra grease be applied anywhere prior to reassembly? I'm asking because I'm considering changing to S-techs in the front and I'm sure that they would need extra travel. lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted July 14, 2010 Share Posted July 14, 2010 Just do the fronts - cutting down the rears is not a good idea. I'd lube the sways at the same time. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
canis Posted August 31, 2010 Share Posted August 31, 2010 Bilstein HDs with pink springs on the way. The pinks will lower the oem '05 suspension, but given that they're kinda factory parts with the Bilsteins is the front bump stop mod recommended for pinks? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubOperator Posted August 31, 2010 Share Posted August 31, 2010 I run Bilstein + pinks without the bump stop cut. Haven't had any issues with shock travel length. 2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 248K 2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 258K SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K SOLD - 2010 OB 6 MT Silver - 205K Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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