ssbtech Posted November 9, 2013 Share Posted November 9, 2013 Have you tried some heat on the strut body? You're turning the shaft clockwise, right? (Just have to ask) My box of junk suspension parts for recycling includes 4 megan coilovers, 2 rear Outback shocks (keeping the fronts in the event I ever want to try Konis) and a brand new left-front Bilstein strut. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeltaNu1142 Posted November 9, 2013 Share Posted November 9, 2013 Have you tried some heat on the strut body? Not yet--I might try that next time I feel like messing with it. You're turning the shaft clockwise, right? (Just have to ask) Clockwise?!? Yes, righty-loosey. Tits mcgee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ssbtech Posted November 9, 2013 Share Posted November 9, 2013 As long as it doesn't look as bad as mine there may still be some hope left for it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted November 9, 2013 Share Posted November 9, 2013 I actually had to use heat on mine to get the shaft to turn in one of mine. Propane torch at medium settings. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sperry Posted November 11, 2013 Share Posted November 11, 2013 I thought I read that the shafts nuts are locked with red locktite. According to the data sheet, it needs to be heated to 500F to release. http://www.loctiteproducts.com/tds/T_LKR_RED_tds.pdf If you're not using heat, you're doing it wrong! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ssbtech Posted November 11, 2013 Share Posted November 11, 2013 Not sure where you saw that. The nuts came off easily by hand, the RH damper shaft came out easily using a screwdriver and a pair of large pliers to turn the screwdriver. The front-left was a nightmare as you can see from the photos I posted above. The replacement LH strut came apart as easily as the right. I looked pretty closely and I didn't see any residue of locktite on the nuts or shaft. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sperry Posted November 11, 2013 Share Posted November 11, 2013 Not sure where you saw that. The nuts came off easily by hand, the RH damper shaft came out easily using a screwdriver and a pair of large pliers to turn the screwdriver. The front-left was a nightmare as you can see from the photos I posted above. The replacement LH strut came apart as easily as the right. I looked pretty closely and I didn't see any residue of locktite on the nuts or shaft. I found it. I was in the email from the guy I talked to about the bumpstops, and it's already quoted above: For the Subie, we have often simply cut the front bump stop down to about 30-40mm and used a 3mm packer as a supplement. Ideally, you'd take bump travel measurements with spring off and bump stop in place then see how much room there is for the front suspension to compress before the tire binds (usually what contacts first). Not as easy on a strut car but after removing the strut insert from the housing you can access the bump stop (we apply heat with a torch to melt the red threadlocker before insert removal). So yeah, not on the nut itself, but on the insert, which is what everyone is having issues with. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ssbtech Posted November 11, 2013 Share Posted November 11, 2013 So why are some of them coming apart fairly easily by hand? My bet is on a machine being out of calibration, just like the Subaru factory with the rear lower strut bolts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted November 12, 2013 Share Posted November 12, 2013 I nearly gave up on the one HD strut that wouldn't cooperate, then remembered that I had my propane torch kit in the bottom of my tool chest. Within a few minutes of applying heat, the shaft was turning and came apart and went back together very quickly and easily. And that's the first I'd heard any mention of thread-locker on the shaft or the nut itself. Perhaps having stand-by "heat" needs to be in the walk-through. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeltaNu1142 Posted November 12, 2013 Share Posted November 12, 2013 I have a couple of torches--did you apply heat just in the "cup" where the shaft is? Tits mcgee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted November 12, 2013 Share Posted November 12, 2013 I have a couple of torches--did you apply heat just in the "cup" where the shaft is? Yes, with the nut "off" the shaft, I just concentrated the heat on the shaft end where its threads go into the tube (in the "cup" as you've described it). Didn't seem to have any effect on the paint, so definitely didn't get too hot with it. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SWP XT Posted November 13, 2013 Share Posted November 13, 2013 So the consensus here is to take 1/3rd of the bumpstop off for an Outback running HD's and JDM pinks? And then swap out the rear outback bumpstop for a legacy bumpstop? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ssbtech Posted November 13, 2013 Share Posted November 13, 2013 Sounds good to me, although I cut the stop up front by 1/2. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted November 13, 2013 Share Posted November 13, 2013 On my first set I cut the stock Spec Bs, by 1/3. On the HD set I'm running now, I modded them using MachV's bump stops as replacements for the stock Bilstein bumpstops. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeltaNu1142 Posted November 17, 2013 Share Posted November 17, 2013 Cut the first bump stop today. I was able to get the strut apart by cycling heat and impact driver (maybe 5-6 times). I have not reassembled yet, because I want to re-tap the hole. I gave it one shot, and the piston didn't thread easily. I'm not looking forward to the next one. Tits mcgee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted November 17, 2013 Share Posted November 17, 2013 It may surprise you and come apart easily. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeltaNu1142 Posted November 17, 2013 Share Posted November 17, 2013 It may surprise you and come apart easily. That would make my day. I'm not loading them until after next week anyway, though. Tits mcgee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted November 17, 2013 Share Posted November 17, 2013 What springs are you going with again? Swifts on mine - like - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris GTO TT Posted November 17, 2013 Share Posted November 17, 2013 I might have to try this on my OEM Bilstein's 2003 Baja 5MT 2016 Outback 2.5i Premium w/Eyesight Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeltaNu1142 Posted November 17, 2013 Share Posted November 17, 2013 What springs are you going with again? Swifts on mine - like Epics, with saggy butt rear...! Funny thing is, I had Bilsteins before my current setup (BC BR coilovers), with H-Techs. I bottomed once in the front on that setup, so I know now this is an important part of the install. Tits mcgee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted November 17, 2013 Share Posted November 17, 2013 We put Epics and Spec B Bilsteins on Gonzo2186's 09 LGT and what a difference. Great ride and handling tightened up everywhere. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris GTO TT Posted November 17, 2013 Share Posted November 17, 2013 We put Epics and Spec B Bilsteins on Gonzo2186's 09 LGT and what a difference. Great ride and handling tightened up everywhere. That makes me feel better about the choice to buy these springs too:) 2003 Baja 5MT 2016 Outback 2.5i Premium w/Eyesight Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeltaNu1142 Posted November 18, 2013 Share Posted November 18, 2013 The stud on the Bilsteins, the one I & everyone else seems to have so much problem with... any idea what size it is? I took the nut to HD over the weekend. It seemed to spin well, to a point, onto a M10 x 1.0 threaded bolt... however, only in one direction. The nut may have some slight thread damage. I want to thread a bolt back into the strut body to fix the lower part of the threads in the body. Any help is appreciated. Tits mcgee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sperry Posted November 18, 2013 Share Posted November 18, 2013 The stud on the Bilsteins, the one I & everyone else seems to have so much problem with... any idea what size it is? I took the nut to HD over the weekend. It seemed to spin well, to a point, onto a M10 x 1.0 threaded bolt... however, only in one direction. The nut may have some slight thread damage. I want to thread a bolt back into the strut body to fix the lower part of the threads in the body. Any help is appreciated. I haven't pulled my struts apart yet to know, but if it only threads on part way, it could be a self-locking nut. Or it could be a M10x1.25 or something where it takes a few threads before binding on a M10x1.0. You can always get a few M10 bolts to line up next to the insert and check for matching thread pitch. Figure out what the correct thread pitch is, then get a tap to repair the strut body. Don't just use a bolt, it may wallow out the damaged threads instead of cutting them cleanly and weaken the grab of the threading. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeltaNu1142 Posted November 18, 2013 Share Posted November 18, 2013 Most of the threads are fine, I think--it's the bottom (inside) threads that are likely damaged... the ones I need to start the stud. I really hate buying taps I'll never use again. I have several, but likely none in the right size. I bought an M10x1.0 bolt, but haven't set them side-by-side yet. This is such a hassle. Tits mcgee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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