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Blistein HD Bump Stop Mod


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I didn't know RCE actually had them. I'll have to call them. I might install a set of them after all.
[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard
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I talked with Myles. They have some on the way, but they wont be here in time for me to do my install.

 

I don't mind pulling the struts back off to do the mod, though. A front-only alignment is cake.

[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard
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Ok, Myles will do an 'organized smart buy' for 5 of us at $45 shipped for the bumpstops. I've queried whether a bigger discount may be available with a greater number, say 10... Normal price is $49 shipped.

 

Please indicate your commitment if you are interested. We will each be sending an email to Myles directly to receive an invoice with the discounted amount.

 

Is it a consensus that the RCE part is superior to the Ground Control pieces? Anyone have any additional input?

 

thanks

Andrew

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So, Myles will do $35 shipped if we can get 10 people together. That’s a much better price. Please post up your interest and let’s get this under way. I’ll create another thread in the GB forum later tonight when I get a chance to announce/track there as well.

 

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  • 7 months later...

I'm going to install my front bump stops today, along with the rest of my suspension bits and swap to Pink springs.

 

Hopefully the struts come apart without too much fuss.

[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard
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The bottom shaft screw can be a real PITB. PB the crap out of it in advance and plan to lock your strut or your srewdriver in a vise or some other immovable device. Perhaps locking the strut and using an air ratchet will get it done. Lots of corrosion potential in that area. GL and post up your results
- Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum -
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The install was easy. Easy as pie.

 

The RF strut came apart without any issue at all.

 

The LH strut was a little more stubborn. I zapped it with a LITTLE heat, and it came right undone. A quick squirt of ZEP Pen. Lube, was all it took.

 

Swapped the bump stops, and went on my merry way.

 

I didn't get to do my bushings, but I did do the Pinks. The rear is about the same height, but the front dropped a little. I'm going to machine some 1" spacers and get the car exactly where I want it.

 

So far, everything is butter smooth. I'm really happy with how the car takes bumpy turns now. I drove my usual "test loop", and everything felt very comfortable. I do have the Hotchkis 25/22mm F/R sways and KB endlinks (and AVO support brackets), and everything feels mostly solid.

 

Now all I need is a LGT driveshaft, transmission crossmember, and steering universal joint, and I can get rid of the subframe spacers that make an Outback and Outback.

 

That'll be one of the final pieces to building the only 09 Legacy Wagon in the states. I will need a different intercooler splitter, unfortunately.

 

Hopefully I can find those parts for a good price.

[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard
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Losing the spacers brings the crossmember up, so the engine sits closer to the hood. I didn't check the catalog, but I rekon the Outback has a different PN for the splitter than the LGT Wagon does.
[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard
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RE: which ZEP, I have no clue. Black can, yellow graphics. Worked really well.

 

For grease, I just used standard synthetic grease. Nothing special. Same stuff used when reassembling a transmission. Just a thin smear, then reinstall. Nice and easy.

[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard
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Losing the spacers brings the crossmember up, so the engine sits closer to the hood. I didn't check the catalog, but I rekon the Outback has a different PN for the splitter than the LGT Wagon does.

 

Gotcha

- Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum -
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  • 1 year later...
The LH strut was a little more stubborn. I zapped it with a LITTLE heat, and it came right undone. A quick squirt of ZEP Pen. Lube, was all it took.

 

You'll be happy to know that the same gorilla assembling the left strut is still employed assembling left struts.:lol:

 

RH came apart easily, LH is being a prick. I've already rounded out the slot a bit so I'm hoping some penetrating oil will loosen the thread up.

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From the "damage" looks like you were trying to turn this screw counter-clockwise... lefty-loosie. These need to turn clockwise (righty tightie) or stay stationary, while turning the housing C-C.

 

Get a hacksaw and re-cut your groove and keep trying. Doesn't look too corroded, so some PBB and heat should get it started. If you can anchor a wide-blade screwdriver in a vise, take a piece of 1-1/2" long, 3/8" vinyl hose, jam it over the screw, and jam the screwdriver up inside the hose (use it to keep the two in alignment), and turn your housing C-C, that may help.

- Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum -
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Recognizing that the body screws onto the rod (like a nut) I was turning the rod clockwise effectively turning the body counterclockwise.

 

I had a 3/8" slot screwdirver with a hexagonal shaft with a pair of vice grips clamped to the shaft. I put as much weight on the butt of the screwdriver as I could to keep it from backing out while rotating it with the vice grips and it still kept backing out of the slot.

 

There's no corrosion, it's brand new.

 

I soaked it in liquid wrench over night, dried it up and applied heat today and it was still stuck.

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Yeah- I was surprised, because they look BN. Not sure liquid wrench is getting it done for you. How much heat did you use?

 

I had one, think it was actually the left one too, that was mad tight. I finally took a stubby screwdriver, clamped in my BA Vise, and set it on that and basically hanging my weight on the body, twisted it off. That's right after apply PBB and heat.

- Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum -
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I don't have a blowtorch so I used a smaller butane torch. The paint was starting to burn so I shied away from it. Also knowing it was soaked in flammable penetrating oil...

 

It's missing quite a bit of material now from one side of the screw head and some from the other.

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