sperry Posted November 18, 2013 Share Posted November 18, 2013 Most of the threads are fine, I think--it's the bottom (inside) threads that are likely damaged... the ones I need to start the stud. I really hate buying taps I'll never use again. I have several, but likely none in the right size. I bought an M10x1.0 bolt, but haven't set them side-by-side yet. This is such a hassle. A tap you'll use just this once is a whole lot cheaper than replacing the strut. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeltaNu1142 Posted November 18, 2013 Share Posted November 18, 2013 Blleeeeeehhhh... I know. Tits mcgee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ssbtech Posted November 19, 2013 Share Posted November 19, 2013 I don't recall mine being a self-locking nut. It seemed to go on both ways just fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeltaNu1142 Posted November 19, 2013 Share Posted November 19, 2013 I don't recall mine being a self-locking nut. It seemed to go on both ways just fine. It's not a lock nut. Tits mcgee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted November 19, 2013 Share Posted November 19, 2013 No, IIIRC, it's just a nut, possibly with a lock washer underneath. But it sounds like your concern is the threads in the tube itself, or the shaft correct? For that, I'd get a tap and die and run both through their respective tools, or just order another tube from Bilstein. It's possible that they have them available since they rebuild these. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ssbtech Posted November 19, 2013 Share Posted November 19, 2013 Anyone want a brand new front-left strut? It's sitting here in my scrap pile with a chewed up piston rod that won't come out of the strut body Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeltaNu1142 Posted November 19, 2013 Share Posted November 19, 2013 No, IIIRC, it's just a nut, possibly with a lock washer underneath. But it sounds like your concern is the threads in the tube itself, or the shaft correct? For that, I'd get a tap and die and run both through their respective tools, or just order another tube from Bilstein. It's possible that they have them available since they rebuild these. Tube, yes--which brings me back to the question, what size is it? I've run the nut over several M10 studs at HD, but none are a perfect fit. I may remove the other nut. Maybe I've galled the threads a little on the end of the nut in a way I can't detect. Tits mcgee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted November 19, 2013 Share Posted November 19, 2013 Tube, yes--which brings me back to the question, what size is it? I've run the nut over several M10 studs at HD, but none are a perfect fit. I may remove the other nut. Maybe I've galled the threads a little on the end of the nut in a way I can't detect. This may very well be the issue. Take the other nut off and try fitting it. And it should be a SS nut too. Might try finding one at your local True Value HW store. I've found HW there when I couldn't find it at Lowe's or THD. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeltaNu1142 Posted November 25, 2013 Share Posted November 25, 2013 OK--first strut modded & reassembled. An intelligent person would have ensured that both struts came apart before modding one--but that's not me, apparently. I am not 100% certain the Bilstein thread isn't some weird M10 x custom TPI, and here's why: I tried both nuts on the M10x1.0 studs at HD. One threaded all the way on. One threaded almost all of the way on. I tried a few. I took home a M10x1.0 bolt & results were the same. I decided, to hell with it, and bought a M10x1.0 tap. I tapped the strut hole and some material came out with the tap. I then threaded the piston back in, and it spun into the strut body really easily, enough to give me confidence I got it right. I then ran the tap through the Bilstein nut, and lots of material came out. I threaded it onto the stud on the piston and it's solid, no resistance spinning it on. It could be that the strut is just thin enough that whatever difference in threads exists doesn't make enough of a difference. I didn't work on those nuts enough to gall the threads, I don't think. Anyway, I wouldn't be surprised if someone found out it's an M10x1.15, or something. Tits mcgee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ssbtech Posted November 25, 2013 Share Posted November 25, 2013 OK--first strut modded & reassembled. An intelligent person would have ensured that both struts came apart before modding one--but that's not me, apparently. I took them both apart first but I still ruined one Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeltaNu1142 Posted November 25, 2013 Share Posted November 25, 2013 I took them both apart first but I still ruined one Well, for what it's worth, if I hadn't had your posts & others to go on, I'd probably be sitting on two worthless struts right now. Since my last post (50 mins ago), I modded the second strut & reassembled. After a couple failed attempts, I have to believe it's all about technique. The two tips that saved me - heat & impact driver. This time it was three cycles of heat, each followed by whacking at it with the driver. I definitely needed the tap. I can't believe these are designed to be serviceable... are they? Anyway, all done. I'll go get the spring compressor tomorrow. Tits mcgee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted December 19, 2013 Share Posted December 19, 2013 Yes they are completely serviceable. Bilstein has a nice facility in Poway California that does it. And you can call them during their normal working hours - very knowledgeable guys there. I worked with Peter while I was still in SoCal. Guy was a walking encyclopedia of strut dynamics information. More information here - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iwantonesobad Posted June 15, 2018 Share Posted June 15, 2018 So the bump stop is inside the strut correct? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ssbtech Posted June 15, 2018 Share Posted June 15, 2018 So the bump stop is inside the strut correct? Correct. And you'll probably ruin one of the struts in the process of getting it unthreaded if they still employ the same gorilla on the assembly line. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted June 15, 2018 Share Posted June 15, 2018 Using an impact-driver (the kind you hold and hit with a hammer) to loosen that bottom bolt is the only way I know to get it loose. You'll just bork the screw head otherwise. Just make sure the strut is held snugly, and that you've got the driver headed in the right direction before you smack it. It's opposite of what you think. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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