scoobydoobie Posted August 31, 2010 Share Posted August 31, 2010 i run bilstein + pinks without the bump stop cut. Haven't had any issues with shock travel length. +1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Thomson Posted September 9, 2010 Share Posted September 9, 2010 when you see the strutt apart you really see how little travel there is before you hit the bump stop, must be why i feel my front end is bottoming out all the time. I wish i did his befor i put my new springs on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spartan Posted September 9, 2010 Share Posted September 9, 2010 I have swift springs on my wagon with Bilstein's. I am thinking about doing the bump stop mod for the front, is there anything that can be done for the rear? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hanslo Posted September 10, 2010 Share Posted September 10, 2010 when you see the strutt apart you really see how little travel there is before you hit the bump stop, must be why i feel my front end is bottoming out all the time. I wish i did his befor i put my new springs on. You're right that there really isn't much travel available but I'm not sure if cutting the stock bumpstops would make much difference. I replaced my stock bump stops with ground control bumpstops partly because I ruined the stocks when I cut them (see comments in post above) but also because I wanted more travel - see attached pic for a side by side, sorry about the poor quality. As an experiment I put one of the stock bumpstops in a vice and crushed it down as far as I could to see how far it would compress. As you can see in the pic it crushed down to about 1 cm. Then I crushed the two halves of the stock bumpstop after I had cut it in half. The bottom firm half crushed to about 9mm and the soft top half crushed to about 4mm. I don't think using the soft half would work very well as it fits way too loosely (again see comments in above post) and is so soft I think you would be at risk of damaging something. Then when I got my ground control bumpstops I crushed one of those down as far as I could with the vice. It crushed down to about 1.2 cm (see pic). So even though the GC starts out about 1.5 cm shorter both stops crush down to almost the same size. Now, what I did was cut one of the segments off of the GC bumpstops. Unfortunately I didn't try the crush test on the cut GC bumpstop but even if I gained half of the crush distance I would only have gained about 1/2 cm of travel. All of this suggests to me that the intact stock bumpstop doesn't really limit travel any more than a cut stock bumpstop and probably barely any more than even the cut GC bumpstop. Interesting... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted September 12, 2010 Share Posted September 12, 2010 Hanslo - agreed it may not limit travel, but it did stop the hobby-horsing that I was experiencing. AFWIW - I cut off only 1/3 of the stock Bilstein stopper, rather than 1/2. Works as expected with no compression issues. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hanslo Posted September 12, 2010 Share Posted September 12, 2010 Hanslo - agreed it may not limit travel, but it did stop the hobby-horsing that I was experiencing. AFWIW - I cut off only 1/3 of the stock Bilstein stopper, rather than 1/2. Works as expected with no compression issues. Yeah, I guess that is what's important. We aren't really gaining any travel but we are changing what the suspension travels through while driving. We're making sure that the bumpstop isn't being engaged at all times which is where the hobby-horsing would come from. Even though the stock bumpstop is pretty soft at first, I suppose it still would influence the compression characteristics of the spring/strut. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_sharp Posted November 8, 2010 Share Posted November 8, 2010 I should be putting on S-techs in the front this weekend. Planning to circumsize my HDs when I'm at it. What options are available for the rear? When passengers are riding in back, I notice a much harsher ride, making me think that the rears are hitting... lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted November 8, 2010 Share Posted November 8, 2010 ^ What springs are you running in the rear? - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_sharp Posted November 8, 2010 Share Posted November 8, 2010 H-techs lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted November 8, 2010 Share Posted November 8, 2010 Why not H Techs all the way around? I think the S techs provide too much drop for the Bilsteins over the long haul. Either way, recommend you add the spacers to the top of the rear shocks just to give you a bit more room before you bottom out on the hard-mounted rear bump stop. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_sharp Posted November 8, 2010 Share Posted November 8, 2010 I currently have H-techs all around. I'm not happy with the front ride height plus I didn't do the bump-stop cut initially. So I'm going back to lower it and to cut the bumps. I currently have 3/8-in. spacers in the rear. How do the rear bump stops work? Are they different than the front? Adding a spacer won't change anything if they're the same as the front... lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hanslo Posted November 8, 2010 Share Posted November 8, 2010 I currently have H-techs all around. I'm not happy with the front ride height plus I didn't do the bump-stop cut initially. So I'm going back to lower it and to cut the bumps. I currently have 3/8-in. spacers in the rear. How do the rear bump stops work? Are they different than the front? Adding a spacer won't change anything if they're the same as the front... For the fronts, you might be interested in the ground control bumpstops. I didn't look into rear bumpstops as it seemed to me that most of the advice I could find recommended not cutting the rears. This is what I got: Foam bump stop ($12.00ea) (bumpstop) size and stiffness: soft strut Ground Control Suspension Systems 3885 Dividend Dr Shingle Springs, CA 95682 530-677-8600 9-5 PST mark@ground-control.com http://www.ground-control-store.com This is an email I wrote about cutting them: Quote: > I have a question regarding your soft progressive strut bump stops. I have a 2007 Subaru Legacy GT. I plan to install Eibach pro springs over stock struts/shocks. The LGT front struts have about 7cm available bump travel, 6cm of which includes the stock bump stop (jouncer). The Eibach springs will lower the front of the car by ~2.5cm meaning the stock bumpstops will be compressed a full 1.5cm at rest. Your strut bumpstops are appx 5cm so even though they are shorter they will still be compressed about 1/2cm at rest. > What is your advice about cutting the ground-control bumpstops? I am thinking about cutting off the bottom progression and keeping the top conical and mid flared-out sections resulting in a bumpstop appx 3.5cm. Could you please explain why you would or would not recommend cutting the bumpstop? > Sincere thanks, and the reply from GC: Quote: No problem, Cutting any bumpstop is common practice to gain lost bump travel. The key is not to cut so much that they will be ineffective. We suggest cutting the bottom portion of the progressive bumpstops if the car is lowered enough for it to be advantageous. Cutting the bumpstop too short will result in another component becoming the limiting factor, usually the spring which will coil bind and quickly ruin the spring, or in extreme cases the piston of the damper itself can be destroyed by plummeting to the bottom of the damper body. Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_sharp Posted November 10, 2010 Share Posted November 10, 2010 Anybody have the torque spec for this nut on the strut? lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted November 11, 2010 Share Posted November 11, 2010 Anybody have the torque spec for this nut on the strut? Here's everything you need.07 - Front Strut.pdf - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_sharp Posted November 11, 2010 Share Posted November 11, 2010 That files shows all torque specs for installing/uninstalling the strut. It doesn't give the torque spec for reassembly of the strut itself in reference to the topic of this thread. lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted November 11, 2010 Share Posted November 11, 2010 Sorry - I thought you were talking about the strut top nut - which is listed at 41 Ft-Lb. Are you referring to the nut at the bottom of the Bilstein? If so, it's the locknut for the shaft and the case, so probably the same amount as the top hat-to-body (14.5 Ft-Lb) would be sufficient. I just tightened mine until the screwed shaft would not back out. YMMV. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_sharp Posted November 11, 2010 Share Posted November 11, 2010 I gotcha. Thanks. lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LegacyDan Posted January 30, 2011 Share Posted January 30, 2011 ok i know im bumping an old thread, but i came across this while looking for tips on improving the ride quality on my Bilsteins. I currently have stock jdm bilsteins(rev a i think) with Tein S-tech lowering springs. From reading this thread i have gathered i should cut the internal strut bump stop in half for the front struts and only cut the rear chassis bumps stops. Is there any point in cutting the rear strut internal bump stops? also are the Bilsteins struts serviceable? 120,000 kms on mine with about 40k on the Teins, no visible sign of damage or wear they just seem very harsh over bumps and ramps. i cant even remember what stock feels like! Just looking for a more comfortable ride, while trying to keep the same height. What are these rear spacers you guys have mentioned? Where do the fit on the strut? Thanks Dan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BAC5.2 Posted January 30, 2011 Share Posted January 30, 2011 I decided to leave my front bump stops uncut. Im using stock jdm spec b wagon springs. [URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted January 30, 2011 Share Posted January 30, 2011 LegacyDan: There is no rear bump stop in or on the rear 'shock' (which is essentially all that it is), only the one on the upper chassis - don't recommend cutting that at all. If you're riding hard, I'd point it directly at your Tein S springs which are dropping the car way too much for the Bilsteins to be of much benefit; you've taken away all of the strut piston travel so that the Bilsteins are bottoming out. Put some more appropriate springs on (read: less drop) and you'll see an immediate improvement in the way the car rides and handles. As far as rebuilding the struts, check out this Bilstein Services link - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LegacyDan Posted January 30, 2011 Share Posted January 30, 2011 thanks for the info, what springs would be a better suited for the Bilsteins so, and still provide a bit of a drop? I thought the point in cutting the bump stops was to help increase the travel after putting on lowering springs? Would the sti pinks be best or something else? Thanks Dan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted January 30, 2011 Share Posted January 30, 2011 Your Teins are taking too much away, so much so that even if you cut down the bump stops, you can't recoup enough travel. In order of preference (mine). STI Pinks for the GTB and then Swift Sports. Pinks don't drop it as much (~.75") and have pretty good durability, but their real strength is their comfort combined with handling improvements. Swifts drop it a bit more (~1.00") and are actually a better choice if you track your car or load it pretty regularly...with my wagon, that's a given, hence going with Swifts. They handle great, make good use of the Bilstein strut/shocks and give a really comfortable ride, all else equal. Plus, the Swifts, in my experience over a number of years and with the different Subarus that I've used them on (from 1996 onward), are downright bullet-proof (read great longevity with no sag). You really can't beat them. There are those who race regularly that use nothing but Swifts due to how stalwart these springs are. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LegacyDan Posted January 30, 2011 Share Posted January 30, 2011 somebody wants to swap my Teins for his sti pinks, might go for it now, and see how they handle, straight swap so, will be the cheapest option too. As for the swifts, how much would i pick up a set for? any vendors on here have them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted January 31, 2011 Share Posted January 31, 2011 That sounds like a great deal - sedan-for-sedan (hopefully). BTW here's the specs on the Swifts (From Mann Engineering's site) P/N: 4F007 MY05 Legacy GT Wagon (BP6) 4F008 MY05 Legacy GT Sedan (BL6) Drop: F:-25mm, R:-15mm (Bilsteins) F:-32mm, R:-25mm (USDM KYB) F:4.3kg/mm, R:6.6kg/mm The wagons are just a tic longer in the rear to compensate for the extra weight. On-site vendors that have them: Mach V motorsports 45690 Elmwood Ct., #170, Sterling, VA 20166 Tel: (571)434-8333 Web: www.machV.com Sport Compact Mann Engineering 1845 Walsh Ave., Santa Clara, CA 95050 Tel: (408)432-6108 Web: www.mann-engineering.com Sport Compact RavSpec 81 E. Jefryn Blvd., #E, Deer Park, NY 11729 Tel: (631)586-3520 Web: www.ravspeconline.com Sport Compact Touge Tuning 7720 Kimbell St., Unit 32, Mississauga, ONT L5S 1M6 Tel: (905)405-0682 Web: www.tougetuning.com Sport Compact Turn In Concept 7964 Thistlewood Dr., West Chester, OH 45069 Tel: (513)235-5150 Web: www.turninconcepts.com Sport Compact I got mine from Mann Engineering. Price today is ~$330.00 shipped. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CDN 2.5i Posted January 31, 2011 Share Posted January 31, 2011 Any consensus on whether the RaceComp bumpstop is worth the extra money over simply cutting down the stock Bilstein part? I plan to do this in the spring and want to order anything I may need in advance. btw, don't see the RaceComp part on their website... any idea how much they are? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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