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Had an email from Bully waiting for me this morning, called them up, and they're going to send out an 06 WRX setup tomorrow with the stage-2 disc and stage-4 pressure plate.

 

LBGT, they know you sold me on it. :)

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Had an email from Bully waiting for me this morning, called them up, and they're going to send out an 06 WRX setup tomorrow with the stage-2 disc and stage-4 pressure plate.

 

LBGT, they know you sold me on it. :)

 

Sounds good, I think you will really like it.

 

Of note:

 

ACT has a small spacer (maybe 2mm thick) they use for LGT clutches. I think weiner had one for sale.

 

I don't know if it is needed or not, but if you read about when I had my clutch I had to lengthen the clutch rod as long as possible (and then some) to get it to completely disengage. (others have had similiar problems with different clutches as I see on IWSTI) If a small spacer was put on the flywheel you would likely not need to do this.

 

Either way it is not a big deal, cause after you beat on it (nothing crazy, the kevlar clutch has to be broken in correctly) a few times, 3500 rpm launches, it goes away. For me I had to adjust the rod all the way out, then after it broke in, and I drove it harder I had to adjust it again (pulling the rod back in). After another few months I had to adjust it yet again.

 

Now it has been rock solid for over 2 years, and still looks great when my tranny was out a few months ago.

 

If you haven't done this adjustment before, it is very easy. Take the floor mat out, unbolt the throttle pedal, then with a pair of pliers and a wrench turn it (need a light too). It takes about 5 mins, and is something you will likely have to adjust at least a small amount to get it perfect.

 

 

ps: I tried to call you during the holidays to explain this, but you were never by your phone.

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Thanks for the info. I lost my phone for a few days, found it last night in the pocket of my bathrobe. :lol:

 

As of a few minutes ago, I have the 06 WRX clutch, exhaust gaskets, etc, en route from FredBeansParts. The clutch swap will be on Friday the 8th. Then break-in, then blow-through-MAF, then I'll finally get back to the dyno - probably early February - and we'll see what numbers come up.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Clutch day postponed for want of a Torx Plus 50 bit. Maybe next week. Meantime, I'm stuck at home with a cold, but I got something done in between coughing, napping, and blowing my nose.

 

Yesterday I built a rough draft of a blow-through charge pipe...

 

...and today I made an appointment to get the silicone coupler in the middle replaced with a welded-in aluminum reducer, along with the welding for the MAF flange and a BOV. And the whole thing will be powder coated red to match the turbo inlet. Should be cool.

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Got the car back with the tube welded up. I decided not to do the powder coating until I'm sure that this is really going to work. Which is good, because they didn't do it quite like I had in mind, so I'll be going back for some tweaks. It works, though.

 

Since I haven't actually switched the MAF wiring harness over to blow-though yet, I'm now running my VTA BOV the "wrong" way, venting metered air. Surprisingly enough the car doesn't seem to care. I'm guessing that will get worse after I have a clutch that can support full boost again. :)

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New clutch is in!

 

Bullyclutch 06 WRX stage 2 clutch disk (segmented Kevlar, looks much like Clutchmasters FX300)

Bullyclutch 06 WRX stage 4 pressure plate (more clamping force)

06 WRX flywheel (4 lbs lighter, and makes the Bullyclutch WRX parts fit)

 

Pedal feels pretty forgiving, and only a hair stiffer than stock. Starts to engage about 3/4" off the floor, feels pretty mild. Pics tomorrow, it's been a long day.

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New clutch is in!

 

Bullyclutch 06 WRX stage 2 clutch disk (segmented Kevlar, looks much like Clutchmasters FX300)

Bullyclutch 06 WRX stage 4 pressure plate (more clamping force)

06 WRX flywheel (4 lbs lighter, and makes the Bullyclutch WRX parts fit)

 

Pedal feels pretty forgiving, and only a hair stiffer than stock. Starts to engage about 3/4" off the floor, feels pretty mild. Pics tomorrow, it's been a long day.

 

Glad to hear it. Engagement will raise a bit in the next week or so.

 

I am surprised you say it is stiffer then OEM. Maybe because your OEM one is a few years old and has lost a bit of its tension? My stage 4 pressure plate felt identical to stock. The day it was done I went back and forth between a new 06 LGT on the lot, and neither myself nor the tech there could feel a difference.

 

Did you put the snout thingy in?

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It's not much different from stock, but I do think it's a hair stiffer. I didn't do any back-to-back testing, so it could be my imagination.

 

Yes, we put in the TSK3 as well. The input shaft looked totally fine, though.

 

I'm guessing they listened to your feedback about the engagement/adjustment issue you ran into because mine turned out nice right from the start. I wouldn't complain if it stayed like this permanently.

 

Higher engagement would still be nice though. I think I will probably end up adjusting the clutch anyway after it breaks in, to get the engagement even higher. I can push the pedal about an inch before it starts to slip and I'd like to cut that in half or so. When I test-drove Tracer-X's ACT setup, I really liked the way it felt and I think that was mostly due to having everything happen with relatively little clutch pedal movement required.

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  • 2 months later...

EFI's dyno database is a fun thing... these aren't perfectly apples-to-apples comparisons, but they're still kind of interesting.

 

The first dyno graph shows an ATP 3076 with EL vs UEL headers - the car with EL headers has boost coming on later, but it's making more power and torque the whole time.

 

The second shows an ATP 3076 with EL headers, with and without cams - slightly more power with significantly less boost.

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And I just ordered a set of ID1000 side-feed-conversion injectors from T1, and some hose and fittings from Summit.

 

New brake discs, pads, and lines go on next weekend, I'll do the injectors on the following weekend.

 

Snowboarding season is over, it's time to work on my car again. :)

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And I just ordered a set of ID1000 side-feed-conversion injectors from T1, and some hose and fittings from Summit.

 

New brake discs, pads, and lines go on next weekend, I'll do the injectors on the following weekend.

 

Snowboarding season is over, it's time to work on my car again. :)

 

Very interested to see what this does to the lean spot.:)

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The injectors are back-ordered two weeks, so it'll take a little longer.

 

The lean spot was the main reason I ordered them... :) I'm also curious if they smooth out the idle, I have little bit of roughness there.

 

Other stuff on the to-do list for the next few weeks:

 

* blow-through MAF

* HIDs

* amp & subwoofer

* front camber bolts with more offset

* AEM MAP sensor

* 4-port boost control solenoid (not using all four...)

 

Most of this has been steadily piling up in the garage for the last few months. Still need to buy the amp though. And hopefully headers and an EWG before summer is over. And with all that, I think I might be done. :)

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Today:

Racingbrake rotors

Technafit braided lines

Carbotech Bobcat pads

ATE blue fluid

...and switched back to summer tires.

The brakes feel nice but not a big a difference as I was hoping.

I haven't pushed them hard yet though, still need to bed them in.

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nsfw, i didnt notice much difference on my brakes with initial feel and power. i think for me the difference is in more sustained punishment and harder pedal pressure. when you stomp on them they will lack mushiness. mush more positive feel with harder pressure. the rotors will allow brakes to not fade as bad with heat. overall more consistent i would say when the going gets rough.

 

install went smooth? sorry i had to bail on you. but i think that job was pretty straight forward!

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