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NSFW

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I asked the owner of the GXP what he'd done to the car, and he said "intake, exhaust, and a tune." I guess that's their equivalent to our stage-2 setup.

 

The forum just ate my post with the data log and comments on it. :mad:

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OK, the log is attached. Noteworthy stuff in the log:

 

* Max MAF = 338 g/s

* Max load = 3.2 g/rev

* Max boost = 21.8psi

* Redline boost = 21psi (it dipped to 20.8 along the way)

* IAT = 91 to 95

* Min AFR = 11.2

* AFR was around 12.0 at peak power. Usually that's bad, but...

* Knock sum did not increment, so no harm done.

* There are two FLKC cells with -1 corrections, those must have happened on the way to the dyno day.

* Peak boost happened at 4700.

* WGDC stays flat at 80% because I was using an MBC.

 

That pull was done in 3rd gear on the dyno. Subsequent pulls were done in 4th but then I had low boost and only 350whp. My tune was pulling WGDC in response to 'high' ECT (207F or so). I've since revised the WGDC compensation to allow full WGDC up to 210F.

 

On the street I hit 20 psi at around 3800 RPM in 3rd gear. The 'target boost' values in the log are what I get in a 4th-gear pull on the road.

377whp.csv

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I also got a 1.384 60' time. That was (still is) a huge surprise, I didn't think my car could do that.

 

I was thinking about this the other day.

 

The 9 second Subarus are pulling 1.4-1.6 60 foot times, the 11 sec ones are doing mostly 1.7-1.8 with the odd 1.6.

 

I really don't think you did a 1.384 60 foot time.:confused:

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LGBT meet NSFW. He doesn't make shit up.

 

:lol: It's all good. I have a theory on what made it possible and will try for another in October. Basically, PIR's track had exactly the right amount of traction/wheelspin, and I had one launch where I screwed up and was bouncing off the rev limiter when I launched. My other launches that night were fairly consistent but I had that one great outlier and I think that's what did it. We'll see, if the traction is similar in October.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I still haven't figured out what caused the 12:1 AFR on the dyno day - all of my theories have been wrong so far.

 

Now I'm guessing that the fuel pump is dying, because it does lean out somewhat in proportion to fuel flow - it's leanest right around peak MAF. I need a second pump to find out for sure, but that's not something I can get fixed before Friday, so no drag racing for me this week. :(

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:lol: It's all good. I have a theory on what made it possible and will try for another in October. Basically, PIR's track had exactly the right amount of traction/wheelspin, and I had one launch where I screwed up and was bouncing off the rev limiter when I launched. My other launches that night were fairly consistent but I had that one great outlier and I think that's what did it. We'll see, if the traction is similar in October.

 

I am interested in your theories, cause that launch makes no sense, unless lots of cars there get launches in that ball-park.

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For one launch I lifted off the clutch too late, so I bounced off the rev limiter first, and I suspect that was the 1.38 one. I don't know for sure because I quit looking at the 60' times after the first few launches. (Basically I was either getting good launches (1.7 - 1.9) or terrible ones (2.2 - 2.5) and I didn't need a time slip to know the difference, so I didn't look at anything other than ET and trap until after I was done.)

 

So my theory is that I should just use the factory rev limiter for launch control - floor it, bounce off the limiter, release the clutch. if Portland's traction is the same in October (enough wheelspin to avoid bogging, enough traction to avoid sit-and-spin) then hopefully I will get another exceptional 60' time.

 

I have to get my AFR problem figured out first though. Going to try a new fuel pump and see if that's the root cause.

 

I'm also ordering new axles, but I don't know if they will be here in time. Hopefully I won't need them. :)

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  • 1 month later...

I replaced the fuel pump with an Aeromotive Stealth 340, and my AFRs are back on track. Also installed a fuel pressure sensor, since that would have helped me figure this out a lot quicker. I still need to get the sensor wired up, but at least the under-hood work is done.

 

PLX says fuel will corrupt their fluid pressure sensor, so you should only use it for water and oil pressure. So I put a T in my fuel line, with the sensor at the bottom of a hose about a foot long, and filled the hose with water. So the sensor is measuring water pressure, but the water getting that pressure from fuel. :) Fuel floats, so I'm betting that the sensor will always be bathed in water. The car idled a bit rough for the first minute or so, probably from water getting into the fuel, but it runs great now.

 

Also flashed my own launch-control & flat-foot-shifting patch this morning, and it works. I haven't launched with it or shifted with it, but the rev limiter works like it's supposed to. At a standstill, with the clutch in, it's around 4000 RPM. Above a few miles per hour, with the clutch in, fuel cut is 7200 RPM and fuel resume is 4000, so it won't bounce off the limiter while I'm shifting (but I can hold the throttle wide open, so boost won't be lost). With the clutch out, it's the normal 7200/7100 rev limiter.

 

Only catch is, I've been reading so much about broken axles in the last few days that I'm afraid to really try this LC/FFS stuff. :) I should have new axles on hand soon, but I don't really want to need them...

 

Anyone want to buy an AVO fuel pump, cheap? :lol:

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If Portland's traction is the same in October (enough wheelspin to avoid bogging, enough traction to avoid sit-and-spin) then hopefully I will get another exceptional 60' time. [...]

 

I'm also ordering new axles, but I don't know if they will be here in time. Hopefully I won't need them. :)

 

Drag racing got rained out, so the mystery remains.

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  • 10 months later...

Wow, it's been almost a year since my last post here. I haven't done much other than just drive the car, so there hasn't been anything to share.

 

But I put in an alternator cover and radiator shroud from Subtle Solutions yesterday...

 

(I removed the Subtle stickers because they were not quite subtle enough.)

Post293A.thumb.jpg.a498b590e06de2ad2b5f59658b162eee.jpg

Post293B.thumb.jpg.91974c2f54239eeb6e479b73deaf48b9.jpg

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  • 3 weeks later...

Last Friday I finally got my car onto a road course for some lapping. It was a little scary but it went pretty well. By the time the first session ended I had a pretty good idea of where to brake and when to turn, so the fear subsided and the fun took over. :)

 

The temperature gauge started to creep up, but I got it down by letting up on the throttle in between turns. And I slid off the track once, but didn't slide far, and got back on at the next gap in traffic, no harm done.

 

Can hardly wait to try it again.

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Yeah. I'm thinking I might want to get some more experience with a car that would be easier to replace, though. I'm still having nightmares about what would have happened if someone else had slid off the same corner before I got out of the way. :lol:
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  • 11 months later...

It's been almost a year, so here's an overdue update...

 

I have a clutch problem, which I wrote about at NASIOC since there are more people over there with Exedy Twin clutches (since that clutch is only available for 6MTs).

 

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2523834

 

So I've bought an ACT HDSS and LWFW. The 6MT version is rated for a lot more torque than the 5MT version, so it might last. Or it might not. I'm gonna try. While I'm running that clutch I'm going to try to fix the Exedy's weakness:

 

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2531853

 

I'm going to have the clutch swap done at Maxwell Power, and while they're at it I'm going to have an equal-length header installed:

 

http://www.killerbmotorsport.com/index_files/Header.htm

 

It's at SwainTech right now getting coated. When I have it in mind hands I'll schedule the work at Maxwell.

 

I'm also going to have four EGT sensors installed (one next to each exhaust port), and two IAT sensors (one next to the throttle body for speed-density, and one next to the compressor outlet, just out of curiosity).

 

I have been thinking more and more about getting a built motor, since a higher redline would be a lot of fun, and it's kind of surprising that the stock motor has lasted this long. But that would be $thousands, and the stock motor just keeps on running strong, so I'm keeping it. (Knock on wood.)

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