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Also, I realized today that I still haven't received the Perrin 3" turbo inlet from ImportImage, so I emailed them to see what's up with that. They had black in stock when I placed the order, but I wanted red...

 

However I did receive Pink front springs. I gave up on the H-Techs, they just look too high when coupled with Tokico struts. When I decided they'd lower the front more, I must have been looking at a car with stock USDM or Koni struts. Oh well. Expect to see a set of H-Techs for sale in the not-too-distant future.

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I nagged Import Image about the Perrin 3" inlet again, and found out Perrin has none. I wonder if it's been discontinued? Anyway, it looks like I'll be going with an APS inlet instead. That's the last part I need...

 

Edit: Import Image is shipping out an APS inlet tomorrow.

 

Woot!

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Installed the 3" intake on Sunday...

 

By pure luck there are two bolts down in the fender well that are perfectly located to hold the MAF housing - at least, after I made a simple little bracket...

 

I should have used regular hose clamps... T-bolts are overkill here, and the weight adds up. I'm also going to remove the hump connector and run a straight silicone tube from the inlet to the top 45-degree bend, to simplify things further.

 

I wanted to make a heat shield too, but it got dark and the mosquitoes were out in force...

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I ordered a steel braided oil/AVCS line from P&L on August 6th, and they just upgraded my order from "collecting dust" to "processing." Color me underwhelmed.

 

EDIT: And on Monday, I cancelled that order.

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Went to Drift Office today and got dynoed...

 

Their RPM sensor wasn't working, so the X axis is in MPH and there's no torque curve, but oh well. The curve is shaped about right and the peak power is good, so I'm happy. I do have some work to do on the boost and AFR though. But I'm about to start over on the boost anyway...

 

We actually did 6 pulls, those are from the 2nd set. The low pull was when the engine (intercooler, especially) was hottest. After that one we spent a few minutes BSing and spraying the FMIC and letting things cool, then did the final pull, which ended up being the highest of the day.

 

Actual AFR is about .3 lower than their sensor indicates (catted exhaust + tailpipe sniffer).

 

Power mods at this point:

 

Intake

FMIC

UP, DP, MP, YP

 

Stock turbo, stock mufflers.

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Yeah, first thing I did when I got home was pull up your thread and compare. :) They're pretty close, I think if the RPM thing had been working they'd look really similar.

 

Actually the main reason I went there rather than Dyno Authority (which is closer) is that you posted pulls from your stock Legacy and your Stage II. It's nice to have a stock car as a baseline, ad i was really curious how much own homebrew tune would stack up against a "real" stage 2 tune.

 

Speaking of which... are you running the OTS Cobb map, or a pro tune?

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ots on a lame 16.7psi.. I am waiting to get my DW injectors back from cleaning/flowtest at witchhunters house and then I'll figure out a good day for a pro-tune adding the walbro and 840 injectors.. bob said he might sqeeze another 20 out of the tq.. dunno if that is worth 300 bucks though. so I might hold off on the installs/tune for when I get that 68 in.. later this year?
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We started at 8:30am, and wrapped up at 10:30pm, but we got it all done:

 

ATP 3076 Turbo

APS 3" turbo inlet

Grimmspeed TGV deletes

Grimmspeed 8mm TGV spacers (to make extra room for the 3" turbo inlet)

Custom turbo-to-FMIC plumbing with a chain of off-the-shelf elbows, joiners, and t-bolts

Fuel pressure regulator relocated to make room for blow-through MAF later

Fuel lines re-routed to make it easier to put the manifold back on

PCV valve deleted for proper air/oil separator action

Swapped out my Tein front springs for STI Pinks (still Pinks in the rear). Ride height is great.

 

Lessons learned:

Teins barely lower the front on JDM/SpecB/Tokico. I must have been looking at cars with USDM struts when I hatched that idea.

Drain some coolant first. At least get the level down ~3" inches so the turbo coolant lines don't spew.

Have a working Legacy GT (or three) nearby for references purposes when hooking all those damn vacuum lines back up.

The base of the ATP turbo is thicker than stock, you'll want longer studs.

Without that ground strap attached to the driver-side TGV housing, the engine runs all kinds of wrong.

 

Huge thanks to Citka, LGTBee, and Easy19! I could not have done this alone.

 

Currently running wastegate boost, which works out to 10-12 psi. Power is way down from 18ish on the VF40 but probably close to stock. Delivery is way different though, the MAF/RPM graph (which roughly approximates a horsepower curve) is a straight line from 3-5 g/s at idle to almost 250 at 7000rpm.

 

More pics later, it's been a long day.

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