Angelflight Posted April 3, 2009 Share Posted April 3, 2009 You can find big ass cutting boards made from that stuff at IKEA Oh and a penney saved is a penny earned Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LuckyBob Posted April 3, 2009 Share Posted April 3, 2009 You can find big ass cutting boards made from that stuff at IKEA Oh and a penney saved is a penny earned You sure it's HDPE? Plus, I need tubes anyway. http://www.cardboardtech.com/gallery/download/2729-2/CRW_4114.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Angelflight Posted April 4, 2009 Share Posted April 4, 2009 Oh did not know you needed tubes. Must has missed that somewhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spoonwacker Posted April 4, 2009 Share Posted April 4, 2009 Oh did not know you needed tubes. Must has missed that somewhere. No use crying over spilled milk. On the other hand, need is the mother of invention... sorry...this forum practically blows goat nuts so im not always on here.Team Pony Express POSTED FROM MY COMPUTER USING A WEB BROWSER Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NSFW Posted April 4, 2009 Author Share Posted April 4, 2009 The HDPE came from http://www.tapplastics.com/ - they even did most of the cutting, except for a couple of small angled bits that I cut at Kraziken's place (the pieces underneath that the thumbscrews go into). I know they carry tubes of some kind of plastic but I'm not sure if it's HDPE. Might be acrylic. Call 'em and ask... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
easy19 Posted April 7, 2009 Share Posted April 7, 2009 nsfw. we have a go from citka on the 25th for garage and lift use. if you are down, i am available and we can rock that stuff out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NSFW Posted April 7, 2009 Author Share Posted April 7, 2009 Awesome! I'm in for sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
easy19 Posted April 8, 2009 Share Posted April 8, 2009 ok Early start! I will be at costco in woodinville at 8 for those that want to meet me there. Nsfw, will meet you at citkas at 8:30. For anybody that wants to come later, pm me for address. just north of costco woodinville a few miles. pretty easy to find. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NSFW Posted April 8, 2009 Author Share Posted April 8, 2009 Sweet. You can disregard that PM I just sent, I hadn't caught up on this thread yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FocuS Posted April 10, 2009 Share Posted April 10, 2009 SWEET!!! Got the Whiteline Roll Center kit ordered for install when I do the LCAs... Should be good to go by the 25th. Also, got an appt. for alignment @ Firestone in Ballard...$99 for life! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NSFW Posted April 14, 2009 Author Share Posted April 14, 2009 Anyone know where I can find AVO's LCA bushings in stock? Harman finally got back to me to tell me they're out of stock for two weeks... I'm guessing there's no way they'll get out here in time. I have shocks and springs and endlinks ready to go, but the LCA swap is looking doubtful. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FocuS Posted April 14, 2009 Share Posted April 14, 2009 I would assume you've checked with AVO already? I would guess Rallitek would be your best bet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
easy19 Posted April 14, 2009 Share Posted April 14, 2009 yeh, talk to avo, they are in seattle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DukeTrout Posted April 14, 2009 Share Posted April 14, 2009 Rallitek may be running a special on them right now. Ich bin echt viel netter, wenn ich nuechtern bin. Echt! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NSFW Posted April 14, 2009 Author Share Posted April 14, 2009 Email'ed Rallitek yesterday, no response yet, will call them shortly... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NSFW Posted April 15, 2009 Author Share Posted April 15, 2009 Rallitek and FredBeans are also out of stock. Paul says he might have some in stock in time, so I'm going to check with him next week. For future reference, if Harman's web site says something is not out of stock, that does not necessarily mean that it is in stock. They do have the Whiteline roll center kit, so I'm having that shipped out, it should be here in time with no problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NSFW Posted April 15, 2009 Author Share Posted April 15, 2009 Unrelated: I want to do this: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1462667 I won't have the parts in time for the suspension party, but maybe later this summer, probably as part of the turbo swap. Looks like it should make the 3" inlet installation much easier. Plus it will give me some spiffy stainless lines under the hood, and I can (I think) re-route the lines that are currently bent by the FMIC return pipe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NSFW Posted April 27, 2009 Author Share Posted April 27, 2009 April 25, 2009: * H-Tech front springs, Pink rears [1] * Tokico struts&shocks * AVO rear sway mounts * 4Box rear lateral links Still on the to-do list: * Whiteline roll center kit (got 'em) * AVO control arm bushings (getting 'em) * Maybe sway bars (got 'em) I'll post pics of the car when the springs have had time to settle. The front looks a tad high, but I'm pretty sure it'll go down a bit. [1] I know what you're thinking, but the Pink fronts and H-Tech fronts have the same spring rate, the H-Tech should just sit a tad lower. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DukeTrout Posted April 27, 2009 Share Posted April 27, 2009 In for the settled stance with the H-tech front/Pinks rear pictures. Could this be the cure for saggy butt syndrome? Ich bin echt viel netter, wenn ich nuechtern bin. Echt! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NSFW Posted May 25, 2009 Author Share Posted May 25, 2009 The H-Tech fronts sit a little higher than I expected.. I'm actually starting to wonder if I should have stuck with Pinks all around. However we also installed conical washers between the top hats and strut bearings, which I later found out are only needed with USDM-style struts/hats/bearings. IIRC those add about 3/16 or maybe 1/4 inch, so I will pull those out before I make up my mind. Also, some information about air/oil separators that I'm going to post here for future reference since I have an Ixiz AOSep waiting in a box... http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1594337 http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1769702 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NSFW Posted July 3, 2009 Author Share Posted July 3, 2009 More reference material, regarding fuel lines... http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1462667 http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?p=27300787#post27300787 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NSFW Posted July 3, 2009 Author Share Posted July 3, 2009 With my wacky-AFR issue figured out, I'm no longer compelled to go blow-through, which means I can move on to the turbo upgrade. In the same operation, I'm going to re-do the fuel lines, mostly just to make the turbo's 3" inlet easier to install. And, also to ease installation of the 3" inlet, I'm going to install 8mm manifold spacers. TGV deletes are also sitting here waiting to go in (thanks AKLGT). The shopping list so far... Manifold stuff: 8mm spacers TGV gaskets manifold gaskets Fuel line stuff: two y-blocks six fittings for said blocks 10 feet of fuel injection hose (will buy locally) a couple dozen clamps (will buy locally) TBD: what fittings to interface with the factory fuel lines near the firewall? Turbo stuff: ATP 3076 (retailer TBD, talking with one now...) Perrin 3" inlet And the last big puzzle, how to mate the turbo's 2" old-WRX-style compressor outlet with the charge pipe on the AVO FMIC? I'm thinking... 2" hump connector on compressor outlet 2" 180* aluminum tube 2"-to-2.75" silicone adapter 2.75" 45* aluminum tube 2.75" straight silicone connector or... 2" hump connector on compressor outlet 2" 180* aluminum tube 2" hump connector 2"-to-2.75" aluminum adapter 2.75" 45* silicone joint 2.75" aluminum straight pipe 2.75" straight silicone connector Air intake: 3" filter (to sit near where the AEM CAI filter is now) 3" MAF housing 3" 90* silicone elbow 3" straight tube, connecting to the 3" turbo inlet. or... 3" filter (to sit near where the AEM CAI filter is now) 3" MAF housing 3" straight silicone coupler 3" 45* aluminum tube Need to stare at my car some more and figure this shit out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diamondgraymetallic21 Posted July 3, 2009 Share Posted July 3, 2009 I've read 30000000 threads on TGV deletes and for some reason I still don't understand what they are or what they do? They are something regarding emissions if I'm correct? Can anyone explain these in very basic terms so I can actually wrap my head around the idea? LoL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NSFW Posted July 3, 2009 Author Share Posted July 3, 2009 First, what is a TGV: Inside the TGV housing there's a splitter that separates the throat into two throats, one is about 3/4 of the total cross-section, the other is the remaining 1/4. In the big section, there's a butterfly valve. When the butterfly is closed, 100% of the airflow is forced to go through the smaller throat. The fuel injector sprays right at the bottom of the smaller throat. The valve is closed when you start the car, so the injector sprays into higher-velocity, more-turbulent air (as compared to spraying into a throat with 100% of the normal cross-section). This gives better atomization and therefore reduced emissions. On my car, the valve stays closed until I touch the throttle - basically, it opens as I back the car out of the garage in the morning - and it stays open until the engine stops. I've read that on more recent models the valve stays closed longer, like maybe until the coolant temperature comes up, or something like that, but I have no details. Deleting the TGV does two things: 1) Inside the TGV housing, it removes the divider and the butterfly valve, thus gaining you approximately 2.3% more cross-section, for moar horsepowah. I pulled that number out of my ass. 2) Outside the TGV housing, it removes the TGV motor and sensor. Some people claim that you can install a turbo with a 3" inlet without removing those, but these people coincidentally sell turbos with 3" inlets. Everyone else says if you're going to install a turbo with a 3" inlet, you need the TGV bits out of the way. It's #2 that prompted to me to delete. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NSFW Posted July 4, 2009 Author Share Posted July 4, 2009 These pics are from Grimmspeed, you can see the divider and the butterfly in the closed position. http://www.grimmspeed.com/images/product_images/tgv_vs_stock_600_1.jpg http://www.grimmspeed.com/images/product_images/tgv_vs_stock_600_3.jpg You can see where the injector sprays. Apparently the small side is actually a lot less than 25% with the valve closed. Source: http://www.rs25.com/forums/f14/t74445-grimmspeed-tgv-deletes-we-have-cores-stock-no-downtime.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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