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Cool Article about the 05 SCCA wagons floating around still.. :)


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They offer custom small classes. IDK how many ppl are in the area who want to learn welding, but it would be interesting to see what kind of deal they can offer. $50/hr (including materials) for private lessons is ok, as long as I could go home and practice, too.

 

Thats a really good price! Which reminds me. I need to talk to the school to see if I can get enrolled in the 3G and 4G weld certification class for this year that I tried to take last year but it didn't actually happen and I never got refunded. Depending on when classes at this place are available and cost I'm always want up to learn more. Especially if they'll teach TIG. I want to learn that!

2005 Vader Wagon

Material Tests on Ringland Failure Piston

I should have held off and purchased a wagon instead of the spec.B
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They offer custom small classes. IDK how many ppl are in the area who want to learn welding, but it would be interesting to see what kind of deal they can offer. $50/hr (including materials) for private lessons is ok, as long as I could go home and practice, too.

 

I added a poll to the PNW section - http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/learn-weld-classes-southparki-258709.html

 

If enough interested, I'll get pricing info.

 

Other options:

Renton Tech teaches a welding course that leads to full certification. As much as I want to take this, it was/is 9-5 five days a week. More than I'm willing to commit to.

 

I think Highline CC has a course taught by a former professional welder.

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I actually have a question that has to do with the wagon but also insight for me.

 

How do you figure out the best position for heat extractors on the hood?

 

I know the wagon has one just before the scoop, but say if you ran a tmic, isn't that hot air leaving the vent just going to mix with ambient air and essentially be just marginally warmer than normal?

 

The second part of the question is, would it be more effecient to put the extractors further back towards the windshield near stock turbo location and near the brake fluid reservoir as they sit so far back, all the hottest air leaves.

 

Am I crazy in thinking of that theory? I'm planning to do two vents from Trackspec and mount them parallel to stock turbo location.

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I actually have a question that has to do with the wagon but also insight for me.

 

How do you figure out the best position for heat extractors on the hood?

 

I know the wagon has one just before the scoop, but say if you ran a tmic, isn't that hot air leaving the vent just going to mix with ambient air and essentially be just marginally warmer than normal?

 

The second part of the question is, would it be more efficient to put the extractors further back towards the windshield near stock turbo location and near the brake fluid reservoir as they sit so far back, all the hottest air leaves.

 

Am I crazy in thinking of that theory? I'm planning to do two vents from Trackspec and mount them parallel to stock turbo location.

 

I'll try to answer your questions since I made the changes to the wagon am in the middle of installing extractors on the STI over in my racing thread.

 

First off, the wagon no longer has a hood scoop. I purchased an OEM Legacy hood from a non-turbo Legacy to start with a clean slate. Heat extractors need to be sited where the air is moving the fastest which means the air is lowest pressure. You want low pressure on the exit side (the heat extractors) and high pressure on the inlet side (the grill opening). The air is moving the fastest just after crossing the top front of the hood. the farther back you go the more it starts to run into back pressure caused by the windshield. So generally speaking the closer to the front of the hood (but behind the radiator/FMIC) the better. If your doing ducting from the radiator to the extractor that's even better, but pushes the extractor back a little farther.

 

How do you figure out the best position for heat extractors on the hood? Answer: Tape yarn to your hood, attach a GoPro, and drive while recording what the yarn is telling you. And drive up to the max speed you think you'll hit because the airflow can be different between 50 mph and 130 mph.

 

I'm not really understanding your second question. But if you mean the hot air exits the extractor then gets forced right back in a TMIC scoop, yes, that's not good but if you have a TMIC you haven't much choice.

 

The farther back you put the extractors the more likely you'll have a reverse flow where the air is actually going INTO the engine bay, not out. That's because of the high pressure area at the base of the windshield. That's why the 1970 Chevelle and Z28 had Cowl Induction flaps that opened at WOT to allow the high pressure air to flow what seems like backwards into the air intake.

 

On the LGT race wagon the main extractor is the big one at the front. The two smaller ones closer to the windshield are only working 1/2 way correctly. The fronts of them are letting hot air out, but the backs are letting hot air IN. You can see that in the aero study with the yarn. Now that I'm doing it again the smaller vents will be just a little behind the main front vent and off to the sides, not behind it.

 

Earlier in this thread and in my STI race thread you can find aero studies using pink yarn to visualize what the air is doing.

1741191799_SidebySideComparo1.thumb.JPG.a52bf0e61306eebb7912de15683bc2e8.JPG

1394489509_ORPHoodAirflowtesting.thumb.jpg.5072e58acdc43e0d5806f5bd4f1d2f23.jpg

Nothing like a race track to find the weak points in man and machine.

"Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement"

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I actually have a question that has to do with the wagon but also insight for me.

 

How do you figure out the best position for heat extractors on the hood?

 

I know the wagon has one just before the scoop, but say if you ran a tmic, isn't that hot air leaving the vent just going to mix with ambient air and essentially be just marginally warmer than normal?

 

The second part of the question is, would it be more effecient to put the extractors further back towards the windshield near stock turbo location and near the brake fluid reservoir as they sit so far back, all the hottest air leaves.

 

Am I crazy in thinking of that theory? I'm planning to do two vents from Trackspec and mount them parallel to stock turbo location.

 

You can do the random cuts or you can add temperature sensors to find actual hot spots. Getting the hot air from the radiator and othe cooling outputs out of the engine area is the usual reason for hood vents.

 

Adding vents on either side of scoop would vent the turbo and the brake booster, as well as letting alot of unwanted environment in.

 

Ideally you would mount them in the area with most heat production as well as locations that aerodynamically will draw the hot air. Up against the windshield is going to have lessdraw than farther outside or closer to the front of the car

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Thank you very much Boxkita and Gator. That really helps my choice of extractors and location. I'll have to figure out something underneath too to draw air in and out.

Using Gator's string, tape and go pro method, you should be able to figure out the airflow around the hood bumper and fenders. You can test on the freeway as long as you no traffic in front of you.

 

Drive at speeds similar to autox so you're getting the right flow patterns.

 

Once you get the base flow map, then tape on cardboard and or foam to change the shape. Then try again. Repeat until its right.

 

If you had a digitized car (I'd be interested if you can get one), you could run simulations on the computer.

 

Before cutting your hood, look for a junkyard hood. Even a wrecked hood.

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+1 on the junkyard hood. I got my Legacy NA hood for $100. It was in near perfect shape. and the right color. It's OEM aluminum too. Many of the aftermarket hoods are steel, and they will pop up as oem equivalent when you check the wrecking yard sites.

Nothing like a race track to find the weak points in man and machine.

"Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement"

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It's a new year, with the same ambitions:

1. get the garage ready for cars

2. get car ready for track

3. get driver ready for racing

4. go racing

 

#1 is making progress.

- The insulation & OSB is up.

- The temporary 2x10's are hung for the loft which will go in later (after the magic money fairy shows up).

- I bought LegacyKid5's compressor and its waiting on the air lines to be rigged (rapid air is nice stuff, but damned expensive). I may just run rubber hoses for now and see what my usage pattern is.

- The "do you want to learn to weld" thread has likely attracted as many interested parties as exist, so will call this week to get info on custom classes targeting car people.

- sound system is in a better location and now gets most of the stations. Need to look at an upgrade so can stream music.

 

#2 is still waiting on #1. However, the seat in the racecar needs to go. I'm upgrading to a Sparco Pro Adv seat that has a halo setup. I hope I never need the feature, however, the wagon is much faster than the Miata. I'm mostly counting on the halo to help with the g-forces.

 

#3 is going slowly. The non-stop work on #1 has caused weight loss and strength training. I can snatch & jerk a sheet of OSB 7 feet and hold it long enough to get screws in. Its not the same as driving an enduro, but its a start. :rolleyes:

 

#4. I've started a calendar of all the possible races I'd be willing to drive to. Mrs Boxkita was thrilled to see I would be gone every weekend from May to September. We're still negotiating. :eek:

NYD2017.thumb.jpg.024d66f4328b2cdfa98adc8ad07b6430.jpg

Sparco-ProADV-01.thumb.jpg.cf06b407616859c9776ee0b82204ac52.jpg

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- Seat arrived at Gator's shop. Waiting for the weather to clear so I can get it.

- Made a bid on a outback hood that has no holes in it. Need to wait for the weather to clear to goto Portland to pick it up.

- Picking up an sti manifold and a bunch of metal piping in a couple of days.

- Picked up a 5000lb atv winch from HF on sale. Need to make a plate so I can mount it in the trailer. Then I can haul the racecar up the driveway incline and up the ramp of the trailer. Still debating putting in on a flatbed and hauling it over with a tarp over it. Just would like to keep the "what's in the garage" a secret from my low-rent neighbors a bit longer.

 

still need to get the garage walls painted. Borrowing a paint sprayer from a buddy tomorrow. Will have to rent a heater (thinking hte jet engine kind) to bring the temp up to 60.

 

debating painting the floor. Cheap paint and let it peel up (spray painted the driveway a few years ago with acrylic paint, it never went away), use a 1 part epoxy, use a 2 part epoxy, use Griot's garage paint, use something else, or let it be? Already dropped screws on the floor and had to sweep to find them. :-(

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late night web surfing is always bad. TSSFab is local and builds nice stuff. I still dream of a full sti swap into the wagon.

http://tssfab.us/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/1098184_10151730425763400_539958476_n.jpg

 

I have a set of those Whiteline rear links (in the pic) for an LGT, KTA124, brand new. The plastic bag is opened but the links have never been unwrapped. Should I add them to your seat order?

 

http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_detail4.php?part_number=KTA124

 

https://www.rallysportdirect.com/part/lateral-links/whi-kta124-whiteline-rear-lateral-link-kit

Nothing like a race track to find the weak points in man and machine.

"Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement"

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late night web surfing is always bad. TSSFab is local and builds nice stuff. I still dream of a full sti swap into the wagon.

http://tssfab.us/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/1098184_10151730425763400_539958476_n.jpg

 

Buy mine. It's mostly done for you ;)

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It was $4kish right for them to build / prototype something like that?

 

I had talked to MooreSport (MSI) a couple of years ago about making a custom rear subframe for the wagon to hang the STI suspension on. After the guy got done laughing, he said 3 months and $4-5k to build a prototype. I'd need to supply both the LGT & STI subframes for them to make a jig as well as a car. They could then sell new pieces with no recompense to me.

 

I have yet to talk to TSSFab. It's on the list of things to do.

 

Since talking to MooreSport, I've been researching suspension systems and what's legal in the class(es) I'll be running in. The race wagon is already pushed out of the stock classes due to the upgrades on it now (turbo, coilovers, brakes, etc). In theory, it would be legal for ITX (assuming I don't do much more). In AutoX, it'd be for fun only.

 

While the original intent was to get the 5x114.3 hubs, the suspension & drivetrain options for an STI are much better. Add in easier to run wider tires (295 !), and its worth pursuing. With the converted subframe and adding matching trailing arm supports, everything else should bolt up. :spin: Actually tuning the suspension is going to be a bit/lot of work.

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Is TSSFab Dead.MR? I know he had a hand in building that Forester. Their prices seem pretty damn reasonable. Your wagon sat in your garage for years, what's another 4-5 months :D

No. 2 different people. Not sure how they met.

 

True the wagon sat in the garage. :mad:

 

Maybe a group buy to finance the subframe. The whole upgrade shouldn't be more than 6 or 7k plus wheels & tires.

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No. 2 different people. Not sure how they met.

 

True the wagon sat in the garage. :mad:

 

Maybe a group buy to finance the subframe. The whole upgrade shouldn't be more than 6 or 7k plus wheels & tires.

 

I really wish I could say I am all in. But, I am realistically years away from that.

Edited by Rhitter
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