whiteout Posted October 26, 2013 Share Posted October 26, 2013 An alternative to PB blaster is: Penetrating Oils Machinist's Workshop MagT recently published some information on various penetrating oils that I found very interesting. Some of you might appreciate this. The magazine reports they tested penetrates for break out torque on rusted nuts. They are below, as forwarded by an ex-student and professional machinist. They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrates with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment. *Penetrating oils ........... Average torque load to loosen* No Oil used ................... 516 pounds WD-40 ..................... ... 238 pounds PB Blaster .................... 214 pounds Liquid Wrench ...............127 pounds Kano Kroil .................... 106 pounds ATF*-Acetone mix............53 pounds The ATF-Acetone mix is a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note this "home brew" released bolts better than any commercial product in this one particular test. Our local machinist group mixed up a batch and we all now use it with equally good results. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is almost as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price. Steve from Godwin-Singer says that ATF-Acetone mix is best, but you can also use ATF and lacquer thinner in a 50-50 mix. *ATF=Automatic Transmission Fluid Also, if re-tapping the threads the banjo bolt screws into, you can put grease on the tap to try and get any metal chips produced to stick to the tap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dga Posted October 30, 2013 Share Posted October 30, 2013 I have no idea how some of you guys actually get that bolt in the way described. I could not even see it let alone get a wrench on it. Since I was already replacing the intake manifold gaskets I decided to check it and tackle it from the front. Much easier with a loose manifold and no turbo inlet to work around. In short mine was perfectly clean after 6 years and 50,000 miles. Oil changed every 3,000 miles since new with Mobile1 and she does not burn any oil what so ever. View from the front: http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn141/Drazengalic/2013-10-20_18-38-07_255.jpg http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn141/Drazengalic/2013-10-20_18-37-37_315.jpg From the side without the turbo inlet http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn141/Drazengalic/2013-10-28_14-16-40_86.jpg Was able to pull out the filter without destroying it with a little pick. http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn141/Drazengalic/2013-10-20_18-44-05_978.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dvancleve Posted October 30, 2013 Share Posted October 30, 2013 The banjo bolt on the turbo never had the filter, only the two on the block. 07+ has the bolt up on top of the passenger side head, not on the rear side like 05-06. The front banjo bolt is on the front side of the drivers head on 05-06. HAMMERDOWN has a DIY how to grind the head down and remove it without taking the timing covers off. I have an '07 OBXT. It has not been monkeyed with at all, previous owner had all work done at the stealership. You are saying my BB filters are not in the locations shown in the articles here? I want to check/replace at least the turbo side one. Ideally, I would remove the AVCS side filter, but pretty much decided to leave it alone since it looks hard to replace and doesn't seem to be a big issue. Are there pics of the procedure or at least the location for '07+ models? Also, were the BB filters used on any other Subie turbo models? WRX guys don't seem to know anything about them... Thanks, Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dga Posted October 30, 2013 Share Posted October 30, 2013 Mine was there on a '08 LGT. Odds are that if the previous owner stuck to 3,000 mile oil changes the filter will not be too bad. It also seems like some engines have them and some don't. There is no way of finding out till you dig in. Check out the walk through in the first post of this thread. Look at the pictures above to see where it sits without anything obscuring it. It's the bolt with a round dimple on top. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted October 31, 2013 Share Posted October 31, 2013 http://people.csail.mit.edu/ilh/vacation/ or http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/subaru-oem-parts-catalog-online-exploded-views-opposed-forces-130411.html Oh make sure your looking at the correct engine in the manual. the book has all the models made that year. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skibump Posted November 30, 2013 Share Posted November 30, 2013 Finally changed the banjo filter today. 120,000 miles with Valvoline 5W-30 full synthetic every 4-5K. Some debris in there but don't think I was near turbo starvation. Also, just to confirm for peace of mind. The bolt doesn't have directionality, correct? (i.e. the hole in the bolt doesn't need to be inline with the oil line?) I hope not, as I don't want to have to take it back out. http://legacygt.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=1786&pictureid=8988 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heiche Posted December 1, 2013 Share Posted December 1, 2013 the bolt does not need to be "clocked". the banjo has a cavity all the way around for the oil to flow. BtSsm - Android app/Bluetooth adapter. LV, logging, gauges and more. For 05-14 Legacy (GT, 2.5, 3.0, 3.6), 02-14 WRX, 04-14 STi, 04-14 FXT, 05-09 OBXT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted December 1, 2013 Share Posted December 1, 2013 What is important though is the orientation of the filter, if you pulled it and cleaned it and replaced it. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted December 4, 2013 Share Posted December 4, 2013 Here's a view of the oil supply line for the turbo on 05-06's. You can see the oil return tube on the back of the head too. http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/92Si/DSCN4770.jpg My thought's on the 07-09's are because the filter is vertical the oil and particles tend to fall down out of it when the oil flow is shut off when you stop the engine. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SATSFYD Posted December 5, 2013 Share Posted December 5, 2013 Has any one thought about enlargen the banjo bolt out put hole? **There are two types of people in the world, those who build horsepower and those who buy it. Which one are you? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted December 5, 2013 Share Posted December 5, 2013 You don't want to do that as it's all metered orifice. Not unless your planning to make major changes on the rest of the oil system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dga Posted December 5, 2013 Share Posted December 5, 2013 Since the filter has a 360 degree mesh, maybe you'd have slightly less risk of clogging if you enlarged it. I'm not sure if it would bring the oil pressure up at the turbo orifice though, since you are supplying more volume, but have the same sized hole in it. But again the stock turbo is not oil starved with a stock system as long as it does not clog the screen or send debris into the turbo bearing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted December 6, 2013 Share Posted December 6, 2013 Wasn't the reason that the oil supply connection point was changed on the 07+ was because the air injection ports and piping run where the 05-06 BB oil supply connection is? - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dga Posted December 6, 2013 Share Posted December 6, 2013 Wasn't the reason that the oil supply connection point was changed on the 07+ was because the air injection ports and piping run where the 05-06 BB oil supply connection is? Makes sense. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bret Posted January 14, 2014 Share Posted January 14, 2014 Just did this. Must have dropped one of the washers when I was pulling it (11pm couldn't see well). Smart move. Put it back together and let it idle and it spewed oil and I must have lost a quart or two before I could shut her off. Found the other washer this morning and proceeded to attempt again and it seems pretty tight. No oil leakage and oil levels are stable after driving about 20 miles. RPMs from 1500-4000. I am just afraid it is going to leak and then there goes my turbo. Anything I should be worried about? Will a compression/leak down test do me any good? I am just afraid it is going to Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bret Posted January 14, 2014 Share Posted January 14, 2014 Forget that last fragment of a sentence... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dga Posted January 14, 2014 Share Posted January 14, 2014 Refill the engine with oil and start it up, let it run, watch if it's leaking, and dread it's going to leak in the future, or just get back in there and replace the washer and do it proper. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bret Posted January 14, 2014 Share Posted January 14, 2014 I used both washers. Refilled the engine with oil. Seems fine. Just wondering if there is anything else I should do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dga Posted January 14, 2014 Share Posted January 14, 2014 I got ya. Keep an eye on it, but you should be fine. Nothing else to do really. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bret Posted January 14, 2014 Share Posted January 14, 2014 Okay thanks! I just overthink everything. (My fatal flaw) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canon Posted March 21, 2014 Share Posted March 21, 2014 This is probably an idiotic question, but should the car itself be drained of oil before taking out the banjo bolt? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forcedinductiongt Posted March 21, 2014 Share Posted March 21, 2014 Should replace the oil when you're replacing the banjo bolts...hell of a lot less messy if you take them out when the car is dry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canon Posted March 21, 2014 Share Posted March 21, 2014 Wouldn't it just make sense to pay $15 for a brand new bolt from subaru? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forcedinductiongt Posted March 21, 2014 Share Posted March 21, 2014 Yeah...what were you planning on doing? I guess you could just remove the filter from the old one and youd be fine, but you'd need new copper washers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canon Posted March 21, 2014 Share Posted March 21, 2014 Yeah...what were you planning on doing? I guess you could just remove the filter from the old one and youd be fine, but you'd need new copper washers Just want to be sure it's done correctly. But if it's clogged full of garbage i don't want that sludge going through. So I feel like it'd be better to just replace the entire bolt for $15 just for peice of mind Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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