Blue Shark Posted March 12, 2013 Share Posted March 12, 2013 Is there anything else you need to look at or replace? I'm going to look at a LGT to buy on Thursday with almost 100k miles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted March 12, 2013 Share Posted March 12, 2013 As a guide on how much might it be worth to access the driver's side filter ^How did you access it? Did you actually take out the timing belt cover ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subadozer Posted March 13, 2013 Share Posted March 13, 2013 Is there anything else you need to look at or replace? I'm going to look at a LGT to buy on Thursday with almost 100k miles. Timing belt should be done about this mileage. It's not an inexpensive job to hire done but gives you easier access to the left side filtered AVCS bolt. Ideally it should be replaced with a filtered bolt with the nipple ground off the top. ^How did you access it? Did you actually take out the timing belt cover ? No I used the Hammer Down method. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fstaslp Posted April 9, 2013 Share Posted April 9, 2013 Man, I tried this tonight and I got to the banjo bolt, but there is no way I am getting that off with a stubby. I must be toooo damn weak. Any other suggestions without going through 51 pages? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted April 9, 2013 Share Posted April 9, 2013 Take off the up-pipe, reach up and un-do it. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fstaslp Posted April 9, 2013 Share Posted April 9, 2013 OK I will wait until I change the up pipe. Thanks. Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted April 16, 2013 Share Posted April 16, 2013 I finally got around to pulling both of the Banjo filter bolts. The turbo one was about 50% plugged. And the driver side ACVS unit was 25% plugged. Pic. of turbo Banjo filter. Over 73k on my GT http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/Subaru/0812072233.jpg http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/Subaru/0812072235.jpg I stated this earlier. http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost....7&postcount=44 But change my mind. Do to my oil\filter change history. I put new filter bolts in to see if the clogging took place more in the first 30k Mobil1\Fram or the last 43k, using Amsoil oil\filer. The driver side Banjo filter bolt is right behind the top cam pulley cover. http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/Subaru/0813071900a.jpg http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/Subaru/0813071900.jpg To remove this bolt. You have two options. 1) Pull everything of the front driver side of the motor to pull that cam pulley. So you can remove the rear cam belt cover. To have room the remove the banjo filter bolt. 2) This is what I came up with to service this bolt, without doing #1 above. Make sure the engine compartment is still warm. Plastic bends better when warm. Need to remove the AC bracket by the oil dipstick, unbolt the dipstick ( if you choose to remove the dipstick for more room. Put a oil drain pan to catch the oil that will leak out of the dipstick tube.) To make room for a cut tool ( I use a dermal with pen attachment & 1\8 in. milling bit.) To remove the tit off the head of the banjo bolt. Then using 17mm wrench to break it free. Unbolt the other end of the AVCS oil supply line. Now the fun begins. Once the filter bolt broken free. Than take a old 17mm box end wrench & grind it down to 3\16 thick & unscrew. Or try this http://www.sears.com/craftsman-7pc-h...blockType=G212 Use a pry bar to move back the rear cam belt cover. Remove filter bolt & line together. Clean up the head of the bolt. I ground it down between 1\8"- 3\16". http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/Subaru/0815071950.jpg http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/Subaru/0815072338.jpg Quote: Originally Posted by HAMMER DOWN http://legacygt.com/forums/skynetim/buttons/viewpost.gif This would be me:p:). 2 microns filtration, 15k OCI, Cobbs stage 1 93 tune, 16.2 psi. of max boost & 169k+miles on the original motor & turbo. Took the original ones out at 73k. Another 4k I will have 100k on this set of banjo filter bolts. Then I will inspect & if all is fine. I will leave them out. If I have crap in them. I but new ones in & change them out every 100k. Mike HAMMER DOWN, for some reason, my banjo bolt on the driver side has a flat head , while the one next to it above (on the oil control valve) does have a bump AND a filter in it. It should be the opposite I believe. Am I the only one with this setup?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subadozer Posted April 17, 2013 Share Posted April 17, 2013 HAMMER DOWN, for some reason, my banjo bolt on the driver side has a flat head , while the one next to it above (on the oil control valve) does have a bump AND a filter in it. It should be the opposite I believe. Am I the only one with this setup?? It's easy to reverse them. I considered doing this when I did mine this past winter but the flow through the bolt and filter is reversed so it's not a good idea. I think that the protocol is that the bolts with the raised section have filters and the ones that are flat do not. Looks like somebody may have done the switch with yours, thinking that it would be easier to service the filter. Using Mike's directions you should be able to switch them back without the added hassle of grinding off the nub while the bolt is installed down behind the timing system cover. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted April 17, 2013 Share Posted April 17, 2013 ^ thanks for your insights. How about we completely get rid of that filter on the driver side but keep the one on the passenger side next to the turbo. This way, no need to service the driver side one, but I guess this is a personal choice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HAMMER DOWN Posted April 17, 2013 Share Posted April 17, 2013 I have removed both of my filters. But, yes it's a personal choice. Not all the banjo bolts with tits have filters in them, just the ones for the turbo & DS ACVS. Mike Mileage:331487 Retired/Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted April 17, 2013 Share Posted April 17, 2013 I have removed both of my filters. But, yes it's a personal choice. Not all the banjo bolts with tits have filters in them, just the ones for the turbo & DS ACVS. Mike You can afford to have both of them gone since you have some fancy oil filtering system on your car . For the record, how many banjo bolts with filter do we have total on our car? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HAMMER DOWN Posted April 17, 2013 Share Posted April 17, 2013 TWO, Back PS head for the turbo & Front DS head for the ACVS. Mileage:331487 Retired/Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted April 17, 2013 Share Posted April 17, 2013 TWO, Back PS head for the turbo & Front DS head for the ACVS. Great. Those are the ones that I am aware of already. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted April 18, 2013 Share Posted April 18, 2013 You can afford to have both of them gone since you have some fancy oil filtering system on your car . For the record, how many banjo bolts with filter do we have total on our car? I've had both removed for over 19,000 miles now. I just use Amsoil filters. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted April 18, 2013 Share Posted April 18, 2013 I will be removing the one on the driver side for sure. I will keep the one on the passenger side in. As an FYI, I changed mine 30k ago on the passenger side. Just checked it and it looked very clean. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subadozer Posted April 19, 2013 Share Posted April 19, 2013 I will be removing the one on the driver side for sure. I will keep the one on the passenger side in. As an FYI, I changed mine 30k ago on the passenger side. Just checked it and it looked very clean. It would appear that the DS one is less prone to getting clogged. When I pulled mine that one was still about 75% clear but the turbo one was only 50%. It's been replaced with the IP&T filtered oil line. I put a new filtered bolt back in on the DS but ground off the nipple so it can be more easily removed for inspection. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bduncs4 Posted April 21, 2013 Share Posted April 21, 2013 Does anyone know if the dealership cleans/replaces the filters during a regular oil change? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BAC5.2 Posted April 21, 2013 Share Posted April 21, 2013 Does anyone know if the dealership cleans/replaces the filters during a regular oil change? Not a chance. [URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeAldea Posted April 21, 2013 Share Posted April 21, 2013 Does anyone know if the dealership cleans/replaces the filters during a regular oil change? Not a chance. I asked a dealer's "Quick Service Oil Change" center to do it once and the mechanic couldn't even find the bolt and I had brought in photos and descriptions from earlier in this thread. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subadozer Posted April 21, 2013 Share Posted April 21, 2013 Does anyone know if the dealership cleans/replaces the filters during a regular oil change? Not a chance. When I first owned mine I asked a dealer service writer about it. She seemed to be quite knowledgeable on the topic but said it was an expensive job to have done and that she didn't think the risk was worth the money. (that dealer had serviced the car for a good share of its life up through the 60,000 mile service...it was at 90k at that point) She said they usually only did it as part of turbo service. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooby2.5 Posted June 5, 2013 Share Posted June 5, 2013 Im wanting to do the drivers side but man what a PITA. Maybe ill leave it. I am replacing the oil control valves this week, as my AVCS is all over the map at just off idle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cobb Posted June 16, 2013 Share Posted June 16, 2013 Ok so I removed my banjo bolt but it won't go back in. I move the line around and it threads in about one turn then gets stiff, I put the box wrench on and turn it then it pops out. Anyone had any trouble or know how to get this back in? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nepbug Posted June 16, 2013 Share Posted June 16, 2013 Ok so I removed my banjo bolt but it won't go back in. I move the line around and it threads in about one turn then gets stiff, I put the box wrench on and turn it then it pops out. Anyone had any trouble or know how to get this back in? Very precarious situation there. Sounds like you are cross-threading. Normally I'd say chase the threads with a tap and try again, but having any metal flakes in there from that would be bad, especially with removing the filter. Inspect the banjo bolt to make sure the threads are in good shape. If they are questionable, either run them through a thread die or get a new bolt. Slowly reinstall the bolt by hand, make sure it is going in straight. Avoid using a wrench to force it further. If it's binding still, then consider these two options: 1. Run a thread tap in there to clean up the threads. This will make it so you can get the bolt in smoothly, but try to clean out any metal shavings generated as best you can, maybe by using q-tips. 2. Gently (seriously, don't force it) wrench it in. Make absolutely sure you are straight when doing this. If you can't get it to go then you have to go to step one. Lastly, when you are installing it, start by applying pressure to the bolt and turning it counter-clockwise until you feel it click into place. This means that the start of the threads for the bolt and hole have aligned and should minimize the chance of cross-threading. Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cobb Posted June 16, 2013 Share Posted June 16, 2013 After removing the turbo and luckily having a grimspeed flex uppipe to be able to move out of the way without removing completely, I was able to get a socket on it and put some pressure and get it back in. So now I ordered some really good 1500 dollar gaskets that came with a free turbo. I figured what the hell half the work is done lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aziankingz Posted June 18, 2013 Share Posted June 18, 2013 Anyone know the part number for the banjo bolt? kind of made one corner of the head round. Took me 2 hours to get that bolt off only to find that the previous owner already took off the filter!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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