FJuan Posted March 6, 2007 Share Posted March 6, 2007 It was time to replace the front rotors and pads. I'm known to be a little hard on the brakes and I tend to glaze the stock pads and rotors often. After reviewing of other brake threads on what's the best rotors and best pads were, I had a better idea on what to buy. Thanks for the reviews everyone! Pics of my project. DBA Slotted rotors - Hawk HPS Pads - Dupli-Color Black Caliper Paint http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid225/p5870805dc9bc9041a8918b749f27b729/ea6b9b89.jpg Difference in stock rotors (top) vs. DBA rotors (bottom) http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid225/p0e59c6a7e034e0ae695de785b23dc9fc/ea6b9b2e.jpg Before picture of stock rotor and pads http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid225/pcd86a860853d360673b923b6bbb55063/ea6b9ae3.jpg Cleaning of Caliper - using a toothbrush and caliper cleaner http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid225/p38e546a5657383b8e5be285423876750/ea6b9a81.jpg Painting of Caliper - The kit includes cleaner, paint and brush. After cleaning, the paint was very easy to apply, just brush it on. What 15 - 30 mins before appling second coat. http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid225/p6750b7279bb1c62efba723c2c9f6c0f8/ea6b9a27.jpg After Pics - DBA rotors installed after paint dried. http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid225/p38d91f4eb8672ec846e33295806229f8/ea6b97af.jpg The Final Look http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid225/p4427b51af8a1dd648dad52d854170109/ea6b9732.jpg After following the instructions for brake-in time and driving for 2 weeks on them now, I found this to be one of the best upgrades I've done. When the brakes are cold they feel good like stock, but after a few stops and they start to warm up that's when I feel the difference. They grab harder without putting more brake pressure down. That's a big plus for me. Another thing I notice are the slotted rotors, the more pressure I put down the more I feel the pads sliding over the slots. It feels like very light tappings on the sterring wheel, to me it's just a good reminder of how much pressure I'm using during braking. Overall - this was money well spent DBA rotors - $235 Hawks HPS - $75 Duli-Color Paint - $15 Final cost - $325 My wife's balls are delicious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SWP-LegacyGT Posted March 6, 2007 Share Posted March 6, 2007 Looks good sir. now you just got the front rotors replaced right? I'm thinking that's the next area I'm going to want to beef up here soon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FJuan Posted March 6, 2007 Author Share Posted March 6, 2007 Just did the fronts for now. I have the Hawk HPS pads for the rear which I plan on doing this week. No rotor upgrade for the rear at this time. My wife's balls are delicious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeyan Posted March 6, 2007 Share Posted March 6, 2007 DBA4000's FTW. nice job on the caliper paint man SoCal Duck Hunters Club - Unit 52 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fatbastard Posted March 6, 2007 Share Posted March 6, 2007 This will be one of my future upgrades as well. I may throw in the RB rear upgrade too but I guess it will depend on how much cash I have at the time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msb175 Posted March 6, 2007 Share Posted March 6, 2007 i hope to do this sometime in the future as well. the carbotechs i have are starting to eat at my rotors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dark_rex Posted March 6, 2007 Share Posted March 6, 2007 where did you pick the dba's and hawks up? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c-lo Posted March 7, 2007 Share Posted March 7, 2007 almost picked up the dba slotted, but decided to wait. the $700 60k service put a damper on that. would like to get them at a later time. 258k miles - Stock engine/minor suspension upgrades/original shocks/rear struts replaced at 222k/4 passenger side wheel bearings/3 clutches/1 radiator/3 turbos Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VTGT Posted March 7, 2007 Share Posted March 7, 2007 Nice review Be sure to get some pictures of the whole car one you are done with the rear Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waxiboy Posted March 7, 2007 Share Posted March 7, 2007 where did you pick the dba's ? +1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FJuan Posted March 7, 2007 Author Share Posted March 7, 2007 where did you pick the dba's and hawks up? DBA's http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/performance/basket.php?makeid=31&modelid=502&year=2005&partid=78&brandid=3383&page=1 Excellent selections and prices. Hawks http://www.jscspeed.com/lgt/lgt_base.html One of our vendors. FYI - The DBA's I purchased were the standard slotted, not the 4000 series. Edit: One more thing. Stock rotor weighed 22lbs vs. DBA's rotor 20.5lbs. 1.5lbs lighter per front wheel. My wife's balls are delicious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trabbic Posted March 9, 2007 Share Posted March 9, 2007 Nice job, exactly what I want to do. Just like you I often glazed the pads... The brakes work fine until they are out of their temp range (which is pretty low), then terrible fading and temporary warping. I was hoping that HPS pads would be OK for me, do you feel that they can handle some hard stops from triple digit speeds? My vB Garage How to Install Steering Wheel Radio Controls Cubby Gauge Mounting Solutions Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FJuan Posted March 9, 2007 Author Share Posted March 9, 2007 I was hoping that HPS pads would be OK for me, do you feel that they can handle some hard stops from triple digit speeds? I haven't tried the "triple digit speeds" yet, but from 85 they work great. My wife's balls are delicious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bosco Posted March 9, 2007 Share Posted March 9, 2007 looks great. now i know what i want thanks for costing me more money. bosco Stay Stock Stay Happy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ncretter Posted March 11, 2007 Share Posted March 11, 2007 How important is it to change the break rotor? Is changing the pads more noticable? I am coming up on having to get new pads soon. If I can get much better break perfromance by buying better pads, I will, but if to get much better breaking I need to replace pads and rotors, I won't bother. Suggestions? (for pads, I am not considering changing the rotors) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bosco Posted March 11, 2007 Share Posted March 11, 2007 pads with proper install/break-in and good tires is all you really need for a street car. bosco Stay Stock Stay Happy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waxiboy Posted March 11, 2007 Share Posted March 11, 2007 How important is it to change the break rotor? Is changing the pads more noticable? I am coming up on having to get new pads soon. If I can get much better break perfromance by buying better pads, I will, but if to get much better breaking I need to replace pads and rotors, I won't bother. Suggestions? (for pads, I am not considering changing the rotors) tires, suspension, pads, rotors, lines, fluid. The last 2 maybe not as important but they are relatively inexpensive mods. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FJuan Posted March 11, 2007 Author Share Posted March 11, 2007 As long as your rotors are in good shape, all you need are just pads then. I added the slotted rotors for looks and to help prevent glazing. It's all about your driving style. My wife's balls are delicious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
titoedge Posted March 12, 2007 Share Posted March 12, 2007 Front Rotor: Brembo Racing Brake (slotted) Front Pads: EBC Greenstuff a major improvement over OEM parts from subaru, that's being nice too! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
magnetic1 Posted March 16, 2007 Share Posted March 16, 2007 How important is it to change the break rotor? Is changing the pads more noticable? I am coming up on having to get new pads soon. If I can get much better break perfromance by buying better pads, I will, but if to get much better breaking I need to replace pads and rotors, I won't bother. Suggestions? (for pads, I am not considering changing the rotors) Pads would make the biggest difference in feel. Rotors would make the biggest difference in looks on the street. On track however, the DBA 4000 series would provide better cooling as the vanes are specially designed to be better than the stock straight vane. Note: We carry the 4000 series for LESS than the link above. We also have all kinds of differnt pads depending on your intended use. If you have any question at all, just ask. Free Sonax Cleaner Deal http://www.brakeswap.com Carbotech, Hawk, PFC, DBA Rotors, Motul, Wilwood, Castrol... Great service. No bumping required ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xenonk Posted March 16, 2007 Share Posted March 16, 2007 As long as your rotors are in good shape, all you need are just pads then. I added the slotted rotors for looks and to help prevent glazing. It's all about your driving style. with today's brake pad compounds, you wont have to worry about glazing... so slotted is no longer needed anymore.. in fact, from my testing, it's better with a blank rotor and run with brake ducts instead. Keefe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VTGT Posted March 16, 2007 Share Posted March 16, 2007 with today's brake pad compounds, you wont have to worry about glazing... so slotted is no longer needed anymore.. in fact, from my testing, it's better with a blank rotor and run with brake ducts instead. Just curious as how long the stock rotors (or any modern rotors for that matter) would last with 85% daily driving and 15% track time? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
magnetic1 Posted March 16, 2007 Share Posted March 16, 2007 Just curious as how long the stock rotors (or any modern rotors for that matter) would last with 85% daily driving and 15% track time? Depends on driving style and pad compounds. It's too hard to just throw a general number out there. You CAN still glaze pads! Depends on the compound. If it isnt the right temperature range, you can and WILL glaze pads. That or if youre using el cheapo pads, they will just fall apart. Free Sonax Cleaner Deal http://www.brakeswap.com Carbotech, Hawk, PFC, DBA Rotors, Motul, Wilwood, Castrol... Great service. No bumping required ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleBlueGT Posted March 16, 2007 Share Posted March 16, 2007 Depends on driving style and pad compounds. It's too hard to just throw a general number out there. You CAN still glaze pads! Depends on the compound. If it isnt the right temperature range, you can and WILL glaze pads. That or if youre using el cheapo pads, they will just fall apart. I glazed my bobcats.........................on the street! Full tune of 68HTA, KSTech 73 MAF, Racer X FMIC and ID1000s................by the DataLog Mafia!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FJuan Posted March 16, 2007 Author Share Posted March 16, 2007 Note: We carry the 4000 series for LESS than the link above. We also have all kinds of differnt pads depending on your intended use. Now you tell me! (I think I should charge for advertising on my thread) My wife's balls are delicious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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