dark_rex

Is the slide on the 320 not locking back because it's hitting your grip? Consider swapping the legion slide stop onto the 226. It's a direct swap. The gray guns triggers are really nice too. MAybe just consider swapping the 226 for a 226 legion, which will have the better sights, trigger and lever installed from the factory. dR

+1 looking for a replacemnet sideskirt. dR

+1 lol

waltham/boston. w000t!!!

because this isn't a literature exam. it's an automotive discussion forum. the goal is to discuss auto related, and legacy specific topics rather than nitpick and BS about the spelling of something. Perhaps it would be more useful to either participate or contribute to the matter at hand, rather than criticizing some irrelevant issue to make yourself feel important or inflate your post count or try and look smarter than someone. dR

why is the spelling so important? everyone knows what it's about. grammar nazi?

what?

from the horses mouth. most of the threads i've read also say this. i never said it wasn't a computer issue. the computer is controlling the a/f, and the reflash alters it. I'm not sure what else i can post up to explain it to you. stock a/fs are sub 10, or around 10, and tuned are 11-11.5. the links i posted are every one i could find on the site. i don't care what you say. adding 1.5 parts air to the ratio is a substantially leaner a/f. :shrug:

aluminum only starts to soften at 1600 degrees. it would have to be significantly hotter for it to actually combust. i'm sorry, "at high temperatures" may be right, but very unlikey in your subaru. you will certainly kill the engine long before aluminum angine parts actually burn. as i said, when they heat up, they can become more brittle and pit, chip, or crack or bend/warp. those are the real risks. SIMPLY FALSE? Maybe you should check all the links i've posted below proving you wrong. period! lol Seriously, are you just making this up as you go along? richer? stock dyno run. 9.5:1 AFR from 3500rpms to redline. http://www.legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=8578 final protuned dyno run 13:1 AFR falling to 11.5:1 at redline. http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13324&highlight=dyno+charts Stage I AFRs about 2 points leaner again. http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13405&highlight=dyno+charts Dan at Mach IV with his maps leaning out 2 pts to 11:1 http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8604&page=3&pp=10&highlight=dyno+chart+graph would you call going from 9:1 to 11:1 richer? haha. back on topic, as i said, it looks like the people with aftermarket maps are not having studdering problems, so it seems likely the rich stock condition is being remedied with the aftermarket ECUs, and fixing the studder. dR

Look. you're totally misinterpreting me. I'm saying the legacy (like all turbo subarus) is programmed to run very rich in stock form. one of the reasons pro tuners are finding so much more power with a simple reflash is b/c they are, as you say, "independantly" controlling air and fuel. leaner mixes make more power. if the car is running 11.1 a/f, a tuner can increase boost "independantly" of the fuelling to achieve target a/f (14:1 or whatever) which inherently is a more efficeint, powerful mix. "tuners are just increasing boost" doesn't make sense. pro tuners are adjusting timing, air and fuel all independantly to achieve target a/fs, as well as egt levels. "boost" alone doesn't mean squat. as for the ECU compensating due to MAF readings, that's fine. but that's also exactly why you have a tuner reflash your ECU. changing the tables so the ECU reacts differenlty under certain conditions is precisely the reason you spend $600. pistons don't "burn" unless you are running TOO lean, or detonating. they don't actually burn though. running too lean risks high egts, preignition and/or detonation which could lead to broken ring lands, crowns, pitting, burnt valves, etc. nothign actually "burns" simply, if the legacy is in fact running pig rich from the factory, it would potentially explain why 1) tuners are getting so much more power with just a reflash, and 2) we are having surging/studder issues. dR

increasing the boost DOES change the A/F ratio. more boost = more air = more lean. dR

That's what I'm saying. the tuners are able to lean the a/f out substantially enough to get to a 50hp gain. it's probably not coincidence that after you're reflashed and 50hp to the good, you also no longer have the studder. dR

it would make sense that the car is running too rich. otherwise, all these ECU tuners like AP and ECUtek wouldn't be extracting the huge 20% gains with nothign more than a reflash. dR

I must say, the more i read this thread, the less interested i am in the reflash. ECUtek here i come... lol

it's doubtful your butt meter produced anythign valuable there. gas is gas, unless there is a real octane rating difference. even so, it's unlikely you could notice a difference. Even if there was a difference, you're butt dyno could never distinguish the TINY difference (associated with amybe a slightly different timing profile once the ECU learns it) dR

great news guys. be sure to post up the results! dR

+1

i had a great purchasing experience at natick. the following service dept interaction was AWFUL. worst i've ever seen, and borderline fraudulant. Cityside has been pretty good though. they just moved to a nice new location too. dR

from my experience, Boston isn't in much better shape. Hopefully my new relationship with Planet will be different. dR