magnetic1

yea... just having a hell of a time right now w/ getting vendor to do it "fast". I have one guy testing the kit already w/ WRX line length and it seem sto work, but is not 100% ideal.

The older calipers were side specific but Wilwood now just puts a bleeder screw on both ends so the calipers are interchangeable from side to side. Lines are SS lines that we have custom made. Brackets are required, as is the hardware (spacers, etc). We dont have brackets that make these work for the rear. There is a Wilwood kit for rear WRX that should fit but we are currently testing line fitment on those.

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problem is not how hard it is to make. The problem is needing the machine shop to make 50 of them. I would just never be able to recoup that cost unless I charged an absurd amount of $ for the kit. Not to mention you would need special rotors too which adds even more to the cost.

No, too much of a hassle (and cost) to incorporate parking brake.

The Wilwood BP10 or BP20s are a cheap and good pad. More aggressive than the HPS. Not sure why I had 294mm rotor size there. Correcting now. This is a special "reintroducton" price. Regular price is $299 shipped. However, my machine shop goofed on a couple items. As some of you may know who have been following the saga, I was having trouble finding a machine shop to make the brackets again. Turns out the spacers required are also a machine shop item (you cant get the right specs off the shelf). They made them too wide, so they all went back. I have fulfilled the orders that have come through so far and will honor the $249 shipped price for any orders I get. Shipping of anymore kits after today wont be for approximately 2 weeks from today. Then finally, Ill have stock of roughly 50 sets ready to go with lines and all. Thank you guys. The pads are super easy to change on these guys, so like suggested above, just swap to a dedicated track pad if going to track. For that, I really recommend Performance Friction 01s. We have those in stock too.

Will look into it. problem is sizing

Actually should have a sample within 10-14 days and then start a production run finally!

Pads from multiple places. Hawk HB521, Carbotech CTW7420

Correct, it is a closed hydraulic system. There is no "pump" that circulates fluid.

http://img88.imageshack.us/img88/7246/sspx0059ij4.jpg

I can accommodate. Send me PM

Awesome Franz. Just a note, our kit uses heat treated steel brackets. Tested and able to use at the track. Some other kits may use aluminum brackets which might not be up to the task.

There are quite a few on LGT with our Wilwood kit... http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=89776&highlight=wilwood http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=97210&highlight=wilwood http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=111085&highlight=wilwood http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=102549&highlight=wilwood

Possibly uneven pad deposits from the OEM pads. Switch to a different pad compound and see if it goes away.

SS lines wont make a HUGE difference. If you need to replace the caliper anyways you have a couple options. One is to rebuild (under $20 in parts and maybe 1 hour labor). Or we have our Wilwood Performance Brake Kit. New calipers, rotors, pads and lines. This would totally change your brake feel. A cheaper option might be to try a more aggressive street pad like a Carbotech Bobcat.

Min thickness should be stamped on the rotor. As far as machining them down, I dont really see an issue with a street car. Track car MAYBE...

Yes, we will have brackets and calipers. Though it would be more advantageous to buy it w/ the rotors as we will package it cheap!

We will hopefully be offering a Wilwood kit soon...

Unfortunately those days are gone. Though not as expenssive as it once was, Prospeed is now $20. Still a great value and fluid considering it wont soften up your pedal like Motul will.

Couple of notes Clint: You can do one man bleeding without Speedbleeders (which I dont like either). Something like a Motive Power Bleeder would work here. Also, Im inclined to say that autoX cars do not need to be bled that much. Youre never going to get the fluid anywhere near boiling points in that application. Get a high quality fluid and it will last a pretty good amount of time. The GS610 fluid we carry is more dense and adds slightly to the pedal feel. On the actual bleeding: Avoid pumping the pedal really hard. You want to keep the bubbles as large as possible so you can see them. If you pump the brakes fast/hard, you turn those into little tiny ones. The car should be OFF. Also be sure to clean the reservior area.

No, it does not. It uses a WRX pad (FMSI 929). In stock in most compounds.

To my knowledge, LGT OE rpelacement rotors arent that cheap, YET. Im sure as the generic knockoffs start filtering in, they would. The advantages of going to something like a DBA4000 would be a change in the internal cooling vane designs. Keep in mind that while the Carbotechs do tend to be more rotor friendly, they does not mean they cause NO rotor wear. They still are more aggressive, just to a smaller extent compared with Performance Friction or comparable Hawk track compounds.