trabbic

If the switches are passing along the correct resistance, then it seems as though the problem is the PAC. Have you tried to contact PAC tech support and see what they say? I would NOT mention that you have retrofitted these controls. The other troubleshooting you can do is temporarily plug the stock stereo back in and see if it works, but if the resistance is stepping down as it should at the plug on the stereo side then you did everything right and the PAC is at fault. Good luck, this one could be difficult to troubleshoot...

I think the answer to your question is in step 10:

Hey guys, I came out of retirement to help this guy out, perhaps some of you can chip in with your experence: http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=94916

Any progress on this?

There might be some complications, read through this thread, they have been discussed...

I considered that about a year ago, when I first got the sound.... But it is NOT the exhaust... So that will not help.

Great news, thank you for keeping us informed.

So just to clarify for other people, you did not push down the yellow tabs where the airbag connects to the steering wheel? I have no idea what that connector is, but satellite radio wiring sounds right to me.

There was some discussion about this being the cause of the deep vibration at about 2500-3000 rpm when at Stage 2, if I am thinking of the same part. this happened under full throttle at a higher gear. Pltek discussed making a part to fix this. I think it is different, because the "growling" can still be at higher rpm. I think the problem we are having is farther back, at the differential. Tonight making a HARD right turn under power, I only got the sound when the rear end stopped sliding and planted. that says to me it is farther back. Remember it is more pronounced, when we have passengers in the back seats.

That's what I try to tell my fiancee!!!!

I am not sure exactly what has to be removed, but PB Blaster will not hurt anything, so spray away. Thanks for doing this, report back so we know how much it helps.

Thanks for tackling this, hopefully we can find a solution...

He pulls it out of his ass. EDIT: please note the ":lol: " I was just joking around, I actually do agree with Vimy ( ) that as it warms up this will diminish.

Here are some transmission cross-member bushings, that might (but probably won't) help our problem. Anyone want to try them? http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=56295 There only 30 dollars, and I guess no extra NVH, I don't have time right now, otherwise I would give them a go.

I don't think it is from pulled timing. I have logged runs where I am no where near pulling timing (so has Casopolis), and we both had the growling still (TDC tunes). My car has NEVER pulled timing in the low rpms, where I get this growling, the only pulled timing I have ever recorded was @ high rpms. And the only logs I have recorded with pulled timing were Cobb's maps; with my TDC maps (and 94 octane ) I don't' get pulled timing. Also I am curious how pulled timing would vibrate a floor board. Please log, I doubt you will find any correlation.

No offense taken, mccorry... It just seems to me like we are going in circles (or beating a dead horse). People keep repeating the same thing over and over again. Or not reading the whole thread, and asking questions that have already been answered several times. (my biggest pet peeve on forums ) I think we pretty much have this thing narrowed down. It will be hard or impossible to get more specific than we have without more evidence, or trial and error. I REALLY like the camera idea, it will help us to maybe prove (without actually replacing bushings) what is causing it.

Not lowered here, but stage 2, noticed it when I started putting more power to the ground than stock. (as I have previously posted) It is worse when I have people in back (like a lowered car), but I can make it happen even with nobody back there. (as I have previously posted, during hard shifts). We have already discussed this at LENGTH. It is worse on lowered cars, but can exist with stock springs. http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i60/munchkin_2/Beat_Dead_HorseSanitysBlog.jpg This is NOT something that Subaru will fix, I would bet that there are only one or two cars, that have never been modified, that have this problem. It is most likely the bushings that locate the rear diff, we need a vendor to step up and make a replacement in polyurethane.

That should not be a problem for the Front-Rear diff mount, because the part is removable and small. But the Rear-Rear diff mount is the whole rear sub-frame, that could be a problem.

Took me a second, has been YEARS since I last coded in College! :lol:

I also get this, stock springs, under VERY hard acceleration in 1st. Casopolis gets it to, BAD, with H-Techs. My feeling is that it has to do with bushings that can't do their job any more when the torque combined with the squat under hard acceleration pushes on them, and what we are feeling/hearing is the vibrating parts of the drivetrain actually touching their mounting points (instead of being isolated by the bushing). This is worse in a lowered car because you have already gotten the car closer to the point where it touches.

Not that I know of, I replied to a PM from another 2.5i guy who wanted to do the controls, and told him to check, but have not heard back. Why not pull the stereo and let us know once and for all, if the orange/white and purple/white are there, you should be good to go...

If it is in fact the same part number, then you should be good to go, that is if the stereo will accept the control inputs.

+1 It is color shifting...

Here is a picture of a wire tap. you want red ones however not yellow as in the link. http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103312&cp=&fbn=Type%2FWire+Tap-ins&f=PAD%2FProduct+Type%2FWire+Tap-ins&fbc=1&kw=wire+tap&parentPage=search Go to your local hardware store (like true value, NOT Home depot) and they will have the 4 different color wire and red taps you need. Get about 4 feet of each color so you will have extra, and take your time, you should be fine. If you run into trouble post up and we will help you. Oh yeah, to close the connection of the wire tap you have to push that metal piece down so it cuts the insulation, the best way to do this is with a nice set of pliers, NOT your hands. (learned the hard way the first time I used them )

Glad you got it figured out man!