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Rx330 OEM conversion for Full OEM HID's Write-up


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Spacing is totally up to you what suits you best for cut off and over all spread. washers before or after the shield or a combo of the two. Just gotta play with it., JVX makes great cutoff's.

Can I ask how to tell if the spacing is correct? I did the washer mod to get a sharper cutoff and I am gonna retake these apart on Thursday/Friday to turn my LGT shield into a custom round shield for a better cutoff across the width of the projector.

 

I think that I can make the Stock LGT shield work really well if I just towards the bottom and round the cutoff off. What do you think?

 

Something like this

 

http://s59.photobucket.com/albums/g297/jvxdriver/folder_04/IMG_6661.jpg

 

but using the stock LGT shield and cutting the lower half to bend outwards towards the lens. I think this will work.

Mr.350
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So I took my headlights apart yet again! haha. I actually made a nice little setup too. What I did was cut the LGT shield so that the hole opening is now the entire width of the projector. I also trimmed the top piece so that the low end cutoff is now closer to the projector. This eliminated the 2 round circles that hit the street and turns it into a more of a spread.

 

The next thing I did was to enclose the projector. I noticed that there was a real good amount of light escaping between the projector and the lens. Here is how I did this and I apologize for not taking pictures but it was frustrating to have to "redo" the entire thing again, although this time around I am perfectly satisfied.

 

What I did was take my RX330 lens holder and cut notches into it. There are the three mounting points and if you cut a vertical slit on each of the sides of these mounting points you make a perfect area in which to insert a "shroud"

 

To make these covers I took some construction paper and made myself a template. I then bought a piece of aluminum from Home depot and cut them the same as the templates. You can now bend the metal and make it fit. This in turn closes the projector and allows light to all be focused at the lens.

 

Honestly too guys this works. I noticed that my projectors are now working better than I could have imagined. It's pretty much like using the AFS projector in that no light escapes besides out of the lens. I will take some pics of the cutoff/road output to show you guys what I mean. This took me all new years break though becuase I decided to really take my time and do it right as I was getting sick of taking apart headlights.

 

Again sorry for not taking pics of an enclosed Non-AFS setup but if you can kind of follow how I did it I would suggest doing the same to yours because it is definitely worth it.

Edited by Golf4283
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Golf - in for pics too

 

Taking your time is always better. I did mine pretty quick and broke a couple of things and swapped things I shouldn't have so I may just get another set of lights and do it slow and perfect the second time. I have my legacy lens holders which I am going to swap the RX330s back in as I think the focus may be slightly off giving me an inconsistent light throw directly in front of the car.

 

I think I can imagine the shield that you made. Do you not think the light that would have been bleeding out may get reflected back in at a wrong angle and maybe aim somewhere not in the intended beam? Can anyone clarify what the inside of the ASF lens holder looks like, if it has reflective patterns on the inside or not?

 

Did widening the light opening make the beam pattern wider? I would think you were at the mercy of the throw that the lens size/shape dictates but I could be wrong (not an optic guy).

 

I was thinking of maybe using some reflective thermal tape or aluminum flashing that's reflective on the inside of the shield to maybe bounce brighter light back into the bowl to see if that helps since there seems to be a concern with wasted/stray light.

 

http://www.competitionproducts.com/prodinfo.asp?number=340210

 

If I try your method, i'll do each item separate and see the effect each change makes

Edited by al-gorithm
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Light is not thrown anywhere above the cutoff. Cutoff is crisp with blue tinge. If light does get thrown below the cutoff then my experiment worked! haha. I'll snap some pics tonight hopefully if I'm not too lazy showing how they look against a wall and let you guys be the judge.

 

If you're gonna try my method then the proper template isn't perfectly square for the two sides of the lens holder. It's more like this

..____

/_____\

 

The bottom of the projector holder will take a more square piece that will just slide right in without even making the notches. So the only notches go for the sides.

 

Then you bend the ends to slide it into place and it will expand from the diameter of the lens holder to the diameter of the projector bowl if you put it with the longer side closer to the bowl. If that makes sense haha.

Edited by Golf4283
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its a preference thing.

 

I personally don't like the extra glare because the are lit up already just fine.

 

Agreed. There is just enough output above the cutoff to light road signs. The paint they use on road signs reacts to UV. High intenisity lighting casts WAY more UV than halogen so the road signs, road markers and paint on the roads lights up much better with HID vs. halogen.

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Light is not thrown anywhere above the cutoff. Cutoff is crisp with blue tinge. If light does get thrown below the cutoff then my experiment worked! haha. I'll snap some pics tonight hopefully if I'm not too lazy showing how they look against a wall and let you guys be the judge.

 

If you're gonna try my method then the proper template isn't perfectly square for the two sides of the lens holder. It's more like this

..____

/_____

 

The bottom of the projector holder will take a more square piece that will just slide right in without even making the notches. So the only notches go for the sides.

 

Then you bend the ends to slide it into place and it will expand from the diameter of the lens holder to the diameter of the projector bowl if you put it with the longer side closer to the bowl. If that makes sense haha.

:needpics:

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So Here's some pics of my current setup. I'm very pleased with it. The camera sucks as you can tell but with enclosing the housings There's no glare to be seen as you can see. If I get access to a better camera I'll get some better pics but until then you guys will just have to be mad about these crap ones.

 

Once again this is to show there is no glare. I think the headlights are aimed a bit too low still but you be the judges.

 

 

 

 

http://www.legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=62228&stc=1&d=1231473924

 

 

 

http://www.legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=62229&stc=1&d=1231473953

 

 

http://www.legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=62230&stc=1&d=1231473978

 

 

http://www.legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=62231&stc=1&d=1231474023

IMG_0006.thumb.jpg.6615be3645a53319d58b4b351eeb27b4.jpg

IMG_0015.thumb.jpg.7cdf7cbc5c99f97b08f0c5d399a31699.jpg

IMG_0008.thumb.jpg.f3c2b937756486cd1c1d6ef13f7f106e.jpg

IMG_0003.thumb.jpg.473b7d7ee1dc665945918a39744cb49d.jpg

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Compare the above pics with my original setup with all the light escaping the sides of the projectors. To me it's night and day but you be the judge.

 

Ok so I did my retro that took all day yesterday and now I'm just getting around to doing my little writeup. First of all I love the setup.

 

I have

RX330 Projectors

Clear Lenses

Legacy Shields

Phillips 85122 with Denso Slim Ballasts

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=61256&stc=1&d=1229398412

 

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=61257&stc=1&d=1229398412

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  • 3 weeks later...

it looks like your shields are bent. see how it curves down so much rather then being straight across. i've done a hid retro fit before so i'm pretty familiar with most setups but haven't played with the 330 before. what's the shield like in it?

 

-Luke

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