lkailburn

mine seems much better after a week or two of driving. smooth and quit(er). I still don't think this reman pump is that great but I guess what do you expect right. doobaru- I think you just need to keep driving, as long as you don't hear any horrific noises, belts are on correctly, and you're not leaking, probably just a lot of air.

I just replaced mine..twice(don't ask) and it's very simple. Do you have a Haynes book? I followed the instructions from that.

Yup checked it right before installing the pump :-/

Yeah I noticed. I had autozone get me another reman pump. Swapped it in last night, used this method to drain out all the old (and prestone) fluids, and used oem ATF. This pump is better, it's nearly as quiet as my original pump but it is still jittery. At a dead stop, it's loud and sounds like its sort of struggling but I think that may be a result of whatever is causing the jittering. Up on jack stands we did 4 or 5 lock to locks. drove it around for 15 minutes and went to a parking lot and did some slow figure eights so I could get more full lock turns in. still feels the same jittery. sorry to keep dragging this on, not sure what i'm doing wrong

Would that also cause a noisy pump? It's much noisier than my original before it went south. Also, for fluid I'm just using Prestone PS fluid. Thanks!

Thanks. Have already replaced with a dealer part (was too late finding out there's a guy on here with junkyards just south of me) Unfortunately the reman pump I swapped in is noisy, and jittery..ugh. Idk if I just need to keep driving it like a break in period or if it should just be buttery smooth from the beginning. Fluid level, belt and belt tension look perfect.

lol yes very easy to remove now

Well i'm at 106K on my 05. I asked the local subbie dealership if they sell an oem kit with all the bearings tensioner and he said everything is ordered separate but they only replace if they are noisy. What's everyone's experience here on the forums. If i'm doing the belt should I just go ahead and do all of the bearings/tensioner and even the water pump? he did offer up a price on the front crank seal to do at the same time. Thanks

hate to bump an old thread but can anyone lend some tips on disconnecting the return hose from the res. Specifically where are you disconnecting? I tried pre and post the metal finned part, and eventually..unfortunately..ended up busting the plastic nipple on the res itself because I was applying so much force to get the hose off.

Ok I'll just sumarize my experience in a short paragraph rather then a couple of posts. 1. what is the special tool used for preventing the swaybar endlink stud from spinning? 2. that LBJ design is a bitch. i could NOT free mine from the knuckle. I removed the castle nut but could not get the lbj to seperate from the LCA either. instead i unbolted the LCA from the frame of the car and swung everything aside together. 3. When disassembling the innards of the axle, be sure to make alignment marks and put it back on exactly how it came off. 4. The ring on that axle inner spline was a major PITA. Both getting it out and putting it back into the tranny/diff. To make life easier i actually took the ring off the axle and sanded it down a little so it wasn't quite as big and then put it back on. Nothing major, but a little to make the job easier. Obviously be super careful to clean everything up. 5. Make sure you apply grease to the splines before reinstalling 6. Torque everything to spec -Luke

EDIT: Summarized my project in the next post. -Luke

nice. 70$+20shipping for a brand new axel? nice deal. lets hope mine will be salvageable. I just purchased the new boot, straps and grease kit from the local stealership. gonna start on it tomorrow right after work. -Luke

is this a common problem on the legacy? I was just underneath my car changing fluid and what do you know, my front passenger axle looks IDENTICAL to the pictures on the first page. what gives?? i'm at 60K on my 05 LGT EDIT: btw i just called up my local dealership and these were the prices they told me: new boot: $15 retaining bands: 1 is 6.53, the other is 5.21 grease kit: 15.60 or a new OEM axle is 369.96 ouch I also called a local subaru repair shop. $491.84 for a new axle installed. -Luke

is the gap on all of them exactly the same? somtimes if the tip errodes over time it widens the gap causing misfires. -Luke

Went down to the subaru dealership and picked up 4 SILFR6A's. They were pregapped to .029, so i opened them to .030 since i'm just running a stock LGT. Get a little bigger spark without risking misfire. One hour and 20 minutes had them installed w00t. next up is tranny and diff fluids -Luke

haha yes just the tip is iridium and is indeed fragile. the ngk guy himself said it is ok to regap an iridium but they still follow the basic rule of thumb which is do not regap + or - more than .08 from it's pregapped location because the angle of the ground strap relative to the tip (whether it be iridium, plat, copper etc) will be incorrect. i know there are members on here who have regapped a 6619 ngk plug for the lgt but i'll take the extra precaution and order the pregapped 7913 plugs. i'm shooting for optimal spark and longevity with this car happy to share the info with the community, -Luke

just got off the phone with NGK tech support. NGK plug stock number 6619 is NOT recommended for the LGT. it physically will fit but As we had mentioned before, 6619 is pregapped at .044 for the 2.5i and changing the gap on the plug more than .08 from where it is pregapped will severly alter the angle of the ground strap and has a better chance of prematurely wearing out the iridium tip. So if fredbeans sells you NGK stock number 6619 for your LGT pregapped at .044, tell them to take the plugs back because NGK tech does NOT recommend that plug for the car. that's what i'm about to do. Unless you want to regap them yourself and risk it -Luke

+1. you're actually NOT supposed to gap an iridium because the angle of the ground strap will never come out perfect and the iridium's are very sensitive, and the iridium tip is so fragile. -Luke

I did, he was the one who told me the generic ngk's don't come pregapped. i'm getting frustrated trying to get some damn pregapped plugs for this car -Luke

which is exactly why i bought NGK plugs but was given these ones by fredbeans gapped at .044. grr this is frustrating. -Luke

agreed. the angle of a pregapped plug will be close to 100% correct. the angle of a self-gapped plug will NOT be 100% correct. grr wtf i'm peeved. this is the second time i've come up with a set of .044 plugs sold to me as LGT plugs. if it's not supposed to be -11 what is is supposed to be? -Luke

just got my order in from fredbeans. got 5qts of subaru ATF, 5 qts of the synthetic S diff fluid, and a box of NGK LFR6AIX-11 6619 Iridium plugs. They have cardboard collars on them which is supposed to indicate they are pregapped and yet they are gapped at .044?? what gives? shouldn't they be gapped to .030? why do i keep getting the wrong plugs wtf. this is for on 05 LGT -Luke EDIT: NVM, spoke with a guy at fredbeans. the NGK Iridium ones they sell are generics and do not come pregapped for the application. So they come in gapped at .044. they do however sell NGK plugs that ARE gapped for your application(i didn't even notice these when i ordered) but they are 15 bucks more expensive. So looks like i'll be careful and gap these myself down to .030. Oh well.

man there are so many goodies i want to order from fredbeans haha. but for now i'm sticking with the stuff i need for the 60K service work. a set of plugs. 5qts of subaru ATF, and 5qts of Extra S for the the diffs. -Luke

your link doesn't work (got cut off in the middle) but i found the parts on their site. thanks!! -Luke

thanks for the replies dude on the couch. I put the car back together with the original ngk plugs. I'm going to return the autolites to autozone and then I'll stop down at subaru and order some or if someone has a recommended site to purchase from i'll go that route. thanks again, -Luke