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yeah, few weeks back I was flying downhill and tried to jump a log pile. neglected to pull the front end up enough and the wheel tagged a rock and I went sailing over the handle bars. tried to tuck and roll but was going to fast. Hit my head on a rock (helmet hit). Shattered the thing.

 

was able to get up rode out after a couple minutes. Still not going over log piles or other obstacles the same yet.

258k miles - Stock engine/minor suspension upgrades/original shocks/rear struts replaced at 222k/4 passenger side wheel bearings/3 clutches/1 radiator/3 turbos
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Maybe someone here can help. I want to switch my knobbies out for more commuter friendly tires. Right now my tires are 26 x 2.1; if I go with something like a 1.75, will I need new tubes too or can I use the ones on there now?
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Maybe someone here can help. I want to switch my knobbies out for more commuter friendly tires. Right now my tires are 26 x 2.1; if I go with something like a 1.75, will I need new tubes too or can I use the ones on there now?

It would depend on the tubes that you have now. Most tubes are good for a range of diameters. My guess is that your 2.1s will work fine in a 1.75.

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agreed
258k miles - Stock engine/minor suspension upgrades/original shocks/rear struts replaced at 222k/4 passenger side wheel bearings/3 clutches/1 radiator/3 turbos
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My original intent was to keep the knobbies on there and commute, thinking that I would ride the trails on the weekend. But I just haven't gotten around to making it to the trails and I don't know if I really feel like going by myself. So I figure I should learn so I can swap back and forth if I ever do get to a trail.
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Swapping tires is easy. It'll take you 5 minutes a wheel once you get the hang of it. You can also get an inexpensive set of wheels and mount your street tires on those.
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Sit back, grab a beer and watch a cool 6min video:

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C_TVhc3bFqM]YouTube - Monday[/ame]

258k miles - Stock engine/minor suspension upgrades/original shocks/rear struts replaced at 222k/4 passenger side wheel bearings/3 clutches/1 radiator/3 turbos
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  • 2 weeks later...
Maybe someone here can help. I want to switch my knobbies out for more commuter friendly tires. Right now my tires are 26 x 2.1; if I go with something like a 1.75, will I need new tubes too or can I use the ones on there now?

 

I just put these on my hardrock the other day, http://www.rei.com/product/724622

Serfas drifter city tire 26X2.0 $22 each

I just used the old tubes, 1st tire took me longer than it should have, but the 2nd one went much easier. Just use the little tool.

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I ended up getting some inexpensive Kendas that were well reviewed on Mtbr. Took me about 45 minutes total, but I also cleaned and lubed the drivetrain. Back tire took me longer but I had started with that one. When I got to the front, I did that one in about 10 minutes. Wasnt as bad as I thought it would be; and it went a lot smoother when I realized I didnt have to be so gentle getting the tires off. Tires are a little faster, though the max psi is 65; which makes it so it flattens out some with my weight on it, I'm not that heavy either. I may try to go a little higher.
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Good job on learning to change your own tubes/tires. I'm always amazed at how many don't know how to do it or are scared of trying.

 

Higher tire PSI will not increase speed. I run tubeless tires on my MTB and run 35 PSI. I weigh in at 210lbs + another 10 lbs of water & backpack. I don't ride mine for commuting, but can hold a 18-20 mph pace for a while with that PSI. The danger of higher PSI then 65 is that the tires start to get really bouncy when hitting small rocks and twigs found on the road. Now, on my road bike I run 110 psi, but that is what the tire can take.

 

Search the Sheldon Brown website and you can find several articles on how increasing tire PSI will not provide a faster speed because the tire will not stay in contact with the ground as much.

 

The danger of running higher PSI then the tire recommends is the potential for ripping out the tire bead when heavily side loaded. With that said, on a tubed tire, running too low will increase the potential for a snake bite/pinch flat.

 

FWIW, you can usually change out your tires for tubeless with a Stan's tubeless kit or some other kits. I have had far less flats on my tubeless tires and am hoping the road wheels/tires tubeles become affordable soon.

 

Cheers,

Mike

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  • 1 month later...

go on to MTBR.com. great site with lots of info. may find some locals to you.

 

 

I'm looking for good trails near Placer County.

I live in Roseville and I have recently purchased a nice Gary Fisher Hard Tail.

Looking for decent fun trails.

 

Thanks

258k miles - Stock engine/minor suspension upgrades/original shocks/rear struts replaced at 222k/4 passenger side wheel bearings/3 clutches/1 radiator/3 turbos
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I'm looking for good trails near Placer County.

I live in Roseville and I have recently purchased a nice Gary Fisher Hard Tail.

Looking for decent fun trails.

 

Thanks

 

I just passed thru Roseville on the way back from a long weekend of riding some trails up in Tahoe. Didn't get any exciting bike pics but here's a cool view of the lake from the flume trail.

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b71/dv2dt2/DSCF3710.jpg

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So what all is involved in converting a bike over to disc brakes from V-brakes? I have a Trek 4400 that I want to throw some discs on, the frame and fork are ready to go but I don't think the wheels are. How hard is it to make the wheels accept a disc, or am I stuck buying new wheels?

 

I am going to have to come up with something because the V-brakes suck and we have a lot of hills where I am and many of them are steep.

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Unfortunately you're going to have to get new wheels if you what to go disc.

 

I would suggest you upgrade your pads on the v-brakes first and get them adjusted properly. You can get v-brakes to perform just as well as (or very very close to) a disc setup.

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So what all is involved in converting a bike over to disc brakes from V-brakes? I have a Trek 4400 that I want to throw some discs on, the frame and fork are ready to go but I don't think the wheels are. How hard is it to make the wheels accept a disc, or am I stuck buying new wheels?

Unless your hubs are disc ready, you'll need to re-lace your existing rims w/ disc hubs or buy a new disc wheelset. If you aren't a weight weenie, you can easily find disc wheelsets for under $200. Of course, there's also the cost of buying the disc brakes, which can vary greatly.

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Thanks for the input, I will try pads first. The bike is new and the takeup and feel of the brake levers is pretty good they aren't soft or mushy. Maybe I just need to clamp them harder, I just have memories of the past going over the bars after grabbing too much front brake.
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definitely a big difference between both. you can check out coloradocyclist.com for wheel sets. pretty good pricing. also check MTBR.com in their classified section you may find a used set.

 

last option would be to convert your front to disc. I've considered this on my '93 litespeed. no tabs for disc in the back but i can in the front.

 

So what all is involved in converting a bike over to disc brakes from V-brakes? I have a Trek 4400 that I want to throw some discs on, the frame and fork are ready to go but I don't think the wheels are. How hard is it to make the wheels accept a disc, or am I stuck buying new wheels?

 

I am going to have to come up with something because the V-brakes suck and we have a lot of hills where I am and many of them are steep.

258k miles - Stock engine/minor suspension upgrades/original shocks/rear struts replaced at 222k/4 passenger side wheel bearings/3 clutches/1 radiator/3 turbos
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  • 1 month later...

I am already getting my bike ready for fall and next spring. I just bought a set of Blackspire chainrings and a new Sram chain, and holy crap I didn't realize how much the Truvativ chainrings suck. Much smoother shifting, and no more shark teeth.

 

I also put my muddin' tires on for the anticipated soggy conditions.

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a little sample... This is part of a new section of trail that was built last weekend.

 

http://photos.imageevent.com/mattg/lair/ladders.jpg

 

Yes, you can either roll down the ladder or gap it.

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a little sample... This is part of a new section of trail that was built last weekend.

 

http://photos.imageevent.com/mattg/lair/ladders.jpg

 

Yes, you can either roll down the ladder or gap it.

 

Sweet! Is that Post Canyon by Hood River?

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Sweet! I'm from Bend (originally). I remember riding Phil's trail off Skyliner back in the day (12+ years ago)

 

mattg, can you send me some info on where these trails are? I'd love to ride this next time I'm in town.

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