Max Capacity Posted October 17, 2013 Share Posted October 17, 2013 Any oil other then Mobil 1 5w-30. DO NOT put that oil in these cars. Shell rotella t6 5w-40 is what a lot of guy's here use. It's easy to get and great oil. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tooslick Posted October 18, 2013 Share Posted October 18, 2013 In mild to hot weather you could get by with a 15w-40 conventional oil. These are dual rated for diesel and gas engines and start out thick enough to tolerate some shearing. For colder weather a 0w-40/5w-40 or 10w-40 synthetic is going to give you easier starting and better subjective performance. Some of the xw-30 synthetics like Amsoil & Redline will perform just fine in turbocharged Subaru's, but most are a bit too thin & prone to shearing down a grade after 3k-5k miles. TS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dominic-t87 Posted November 1, 2013 Share Posted November 1, 2013 With a clean banjo bolt filter in my 2005 LGT, would it be safe to run extended OCIs according to Blackstone UOA results? I'm thinking of going this route since the 3000mile OCI every 2.5 months is a dent in the wallet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05LGTLtd Posted November 1, 2013 Share Posted November 1, 2013 With a clean banjo bolt filter in my 2005 LGT, would it be safe to run extended OCIs according to Blackstone UOA results? I'm thinking of going this route since the 3000mile OCI every 2.5 months is a dent in the wallet. Need more details... All I need now is a hill holder and a center passing light... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dominic-t87 Posted November 1, 2013 Share Posted November 1, 2013 Need more details... Currently whatever synthetic the stealership uses (Mobil 1 5W30?) and 3750mi/6000km OCI. Thinking of switching to M1 0W40 as winter gets to -20C or colder here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05LGTLtd Posted November 1, 2013 Share Posted November 1, 2013 M1 5w-30 will give better cold start performance than M1 0w-40. What did blackstone read your TBN and viscosity at? What's your coldest start temp? Highway vs town/short trip? Will you be changing yourself or still taking to a shop? Tune/mods? All I need now is a hill holder and a center passing light... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tooslick Posted November 1, 2013 Share Posted November 1, 2013 Dominic, You could most likely go 6000-7500 miles with a top tier synthetic. I would verify that the oils holding up through analysis by testing several batches of oil. I'd work my way up gradually by testing after 5k/6k/7.5k miles. TS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dominic-t87 Posted November 1, 2013 Share Posted November 1, 2013 M1 5w-30 will give better cold start performance than M1 0w-40. What did blackstone read your TBN and viscosity at? What's your coldest start temp? Highway vs town/short trip? Will you be changing yourself or still taking to a shop? Tune/mods? I thought the M1 5W30 didn't cut it for HTHS recommendations for Subie turbos (3.1) vs. M1 0W40 (3.8)? If so, i'd be hesitant to run a longer OCI using M1 5W30. But I agree, based on the 40C cST specs, the M1 5W30 (61 cST) is better for cold starts than M1 0W40 (72 cST). Haven't done a blackstone reading yet, but i'm considering it to extend my OCI. Only had the car since March, so coldest start temp was -5C at the coldest 95% highway driving ~60km one-way to work Still taking it to a local shop, will consider changing my own oil once I have my own garage (in apartment now) Dominic, You could most likely go 6000-7500 miles with a top tier synthetic. I would verify that the oils holding up through analysis by testing several batches of oil. I'd work my way up gradually by testing after 5k/6k/7.5k miles. TS Awesome, thanks! So if got this right...as long as the top tier synthetic oil "holds up" according to Blackstone's TBM results and suggestions, it will won't clog the banjo bolt? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05LGTLtd Posted November 1, 2013 Share Posted November 1, 2013 I thought the M1 5W30 didn't cut it for HTHS recommendations for Subie turbos (3.1) vs. M1 0W40 (3.8)? If so, i'd be hesitant to run a longer OCI using M1 5W30. But I agree, based on the 40C cST specs, the M1 5W30 (61 cST) is better for cold starts than M1 0W40 (72 cST). Haven't done a blackstone reading yet, but i'm considering it to extend my OCI. Only had the car since March, so coldest start temp was -5C at the coldest 95% highway driving ~60km one-way to work Still taking it to a local shop, will consider changing my own oil once I have my own garage (in apartment now) Awesome, thanks! So if got this right...as long as the top tier synthetic oil "holds up" according to Blackstone's TBM results and suggestions, it will won't clog the banjo bolt? For the record I was not recommending M1 5w-30. Matter of fact I personally wouldn't run it in my LGT unless I had to. M1 0w-40 is a different story. I have twelve quarts of it in my stash right now.. can't decide which vehicle to use it in. You might be fine with the mobil 5w-30, but I'd uoa to be sure. It often shears down to a 20 grade in FI subies, hence the near universal recommendation against it around here. Having said that every engine/driver is different, and the newer SN formula has less UOA data, so you could be fine running it 6k miles. Like suggested, if your stuck with it because that's what the shop has, either stay short interval, or UOA. I take it the 0w-40 is available to you, since you mentioned it. The difference in start up performance is there, but in reality probably doesn't make that big a real world difference. You could always cut it with a quart of 0w-30 M1 to make up some difference. It won't hit HTHS too hard. Can you get PU 5w-30? All I need now is a hill holder and a center passing light... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dominic-t87 Posted November 1, 2013 Share Posted November 1, 2013 For the record I was not recommending M1 5w-30. Matter of fact I personally wouldn't run it in my LGT unless I had to. M1 0w-40 is a different story. I have twelve quarts of it in my stash right now.. can't decide which vehicle to use it in. You might be fine with the mobil 5w-30, but I'd uoa to be sure. It often shears down to a 20 grade in FI subies, hence the near universal recommendation against it around here. Having said that every engine/driver is different, and the newer SN formula has less UOA data, so you could be fine running it 6k miles. Like suggested, if your stuck with it because that's what the shop has, either stay short interval, or UOA. I take it the 0w-40 is available to you, since you mentioned it. The difference in start up performance is there, but in reality probably doesn't make that big a real world difference. You could always cut it with a quart of 0w-30 M1 to make up some difference. It won't hit HTHS too hard. Can you get PU 5w-30? Not sure if the shop can/will get it in for me, but i've seen the PU 5W30 on these forums and it's on my list of oils to consider (amongst Rotella T6 and German Castrol Edge SPT 0W30). The viscosity for PU 5W30 @ 40C looks to be the thinnest so far 57.5 cST (though the HTHS is 3.1). I'll check with the shop next time i'm in. Thanks for the advice on the uoa Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Perscitus Posted November 1, 2013 Share Posted November 1, 2013 For me its either: Shell Rotella T6 / Motul X-cess 5W40 or Castol Edge Titanium 5W30 + Amsoil/Purlator/Napa/Wix filter every 3.5-4K miles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigbadboss101 Posted November 2, 2013 Share Posted November 2, 2013 I have read good things about PU. PP is not remotely as good? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tooslick Posted November 2, 2013 Share Posted November 2, 2013 You cannot directly tell if the turbo screen is starting to clog thru oil analysis. However you can evaluate the physical and chemical condition of the oil at the end of the service interval and infer if it's still providing excellent deposit control and suspending/dispersing contaminants. TS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluesubie Posted November 5, 2013 Share Posted November 5, 2013 Speaking from experience with a clogged turbo banjo bolt screen with only 20k miles on the turbo and doing lots of uoa's, be careful what Blackstone (or any typical uoa) recommends when it comes to extending your interval regardless of how your "uoa wear" or your TBN looks. IMO, you're probably safe going to 5-6k mile intervals on any of the non Resource Conserving oils mentioned above. It all depends on your driving conditions though. You also have to look beyond the kinematic vicsosity at 40C in trying to decide which oil is thinner. And unforunately, the cold cranking test for 0W and 5W is performed at -30 and -35C respectively. While it's not 100% accurate, plugging the 40C and 100C numbers into a viscosity calculator will give you a better idea of the actual viscosity at a given temp. http://www.widman.biz/English/Calculators/Graph.html As I understand, the chart is less accurate if you change the minimum temp to lower than 0. -Dennis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05LGTLtd Posted December 18, 2013 Share Posted December 18, 2013 Just scored 14qts of M1 5w-40 TDT @$1 a quart at my local autozone... All I need now is a hill holder and a center passing light... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Th3Franz Posted December 21, 2013 Share Posted December 21, 2013 Just scored 14qts of M1 5w-40 TDT @$1 a quart at my local autozone... how??! -Franz The end of a Legacy http://www.youtube.com/th3franz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05LGTLtd Posted December 21, 2013 Share Posted December 21, 2013 Clearance on the one quart bottles. Not all stores. There is a good sale on the gallon size jugs till Tuesday. $12.99, if you can find them. You may be able to get Walmart to price match that with the ad, others at bitog forums have... All I need now is a hill holder and a center passing light... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rapture Posted December 22, 2013 Share Posted December 22, 2013 glwt ...^ ive never liked the mobil oil, not any weight tried em burned thru them t6 seems to be the best i can find for consumption /burnoff etc... other than the top top stuff like amsoil or motul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tsukasa Posted January 16, 2014 Share Posted January 16, 2014 I might buy a legacy gt 05 friday and was searching for which syntec oil i should use and looks like a lots of people say the rotella t6,i was suprise,its a diesel oil but i read that is richer in phosphore and zinc,thats good for suby engine,what grade of t6 i should use ? And which oil filter ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
famaya26 Posted January 16, 2014 Share Posted January 16, 2014 T6 is 5W-40 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tsukasa Posted January 16, 2014 Share Posted January 16, 2014 Ah k thanks ! And for filter ?? Anything or i should stick with subaru oem ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted January 16, 2014 Share Posted January 16, 2014 Any name brand should be fine. I have always had good luck with Fram since the 1970's. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonnyJagaru Posted January 16, 2014 Share Posted January 16, 2014 Fram are generally considered the worst oil filters made. Don't take my word for it, see Youtube. I use the Purolator 14612 because its the only one I've found with the higher-pressure relief valve. This ensures the filter isn't bypassed when oil pressure is high (cold engine, higher engine revs). Others claim the Napa are good, but they are hard to find where I live. I can tell you from experience the Purolator will leak if you don't tighten it enough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluesubie Posted January 16, 2014 Share Posted January 16, 2014 T6 is 5W-40 And since Tsukasa is in Canada, he can also get RT6 0W-40. http://www.epc.shell.com/Docs/GPCDOC_GTDS_Shell_Rotella_T6_0W-40_(CJ-4)_(en)_TDS.pdf As for Syntec, the preferred oils are German Castrol 0W-30 or Belgian Castrol 0W-40 (or did you mean "synthetic" when you said "syntec"?). I've been running the crappy OEM Honeywell/Fram's on three Subaru's from day one for 6-8k mile intervals. You'll find many people claiming the OEM filters aren't any good because they are made by the company that makes Fram, but it's doubtful that you will find any meaningful data. I would even say that most of the used oil analyses that show up on Subarus at bobistheoilguy are on OEM filters. -Dennis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Ned Posted January 16, 2014 Share Posted January 16, 2014 As for Syntec, the preferred oils are German Castrol 0W-30 or Belgian Castrol 0W-40 (or did you mean "synthetic" when you said "syntec"?). This past Monday, 0W-30 was now Belgian as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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