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poll: What oil are you using and what change interval?


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AMSOIL Signature Series and AMSOIL filter every four thousand even though it should go longer. Banjo filter bolt removed

 

:rolleyes:This ^^^^^^ is a waste of awesome oil, filter, time & good $$$$$$$$$:spin::rolleyes:

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But it's his time & dime. To do whatever he wants too.:lol::lol::lol:

 

Mike

Mileage:331487 Retired/Sold

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AMSOIL Signature Series and AMSOIL filter every four thousand even though it should go longer. Banjo filter bolt removed

 

Full syn dump every 4K... How aggressive do you drive? How long does it take you to reach 4k? Do you let the car idle forever to get warm then drive 3 mile to work?

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If you're changing every 4000 miles due to warranty concerns, I'd use the less expensive Amsoil OE or XL oils. The 10w-40/XL is nice and thick and has excellent high temp properties...

 

TS

 

Maybe he could save every drain and then run them again when his warranty is out? :)

All I need now is a hill holder and a center passing light...
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For those of us without a filter bypass set up, 4k intervals on SSO on a pre-2011 are a good idea IMO. You're probably fine going longer without the screens in place, but I would follow Amsoil's recommendation of 3,750 mile intervals and would also probably run the Amsoil XL or OE oils. SSO at 8k miles was too long for my application. I would run Amsoil Series 3000 HDD over any of their 5W-30's though.

 

-Dennis

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This is one application where I'd recommend a 10w-30 synthetic over a 0w-30. The higher molecular weight, base stock simply holds up better and the 10w-30's tend to be more shear stable.

 

TS

 

The exception being German Castrol 0w-30. It has a better HTHS than most 10w-30 oils. I just picked up 10 more quarts for the stash while Advance Auto has the 5+filter deal. I'll give one filter to my dad for his truck, and keep the other one for my next change on the lawn mower.

All I need now is a hill holder and a center passing light...
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Not to mention that that 0W-30 really helps when it's -20F and you forgot to plug in the block heater last night.

 

I've been running GC in 3 different Subie turbo motors for at least 8 years, maybe more, and have never once doubted the quality of the oil.

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  • 4 weeks later...

How often would you guys change the oil based on time instead of mileage? I'm currently on 3K intervals, but my commute is about to change such that it could take 10 months to hit 3K instead of the 2 months that it takes now.

 

So, would you change the oil every 3.75 months as SOA recommends? I'm using Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30, btw.

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You're fine going ten months on PP. Just make sure you run the car enough to warm the engine up good and burn off any fuel dilution or water condensation once a week or so. Short tripping can be hard on oil, but ten months should be doable with a good oil like PP.
All I need now is a hill holder and a center passing light...
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Ok. I'll wait until my extended warranty is up and then go with a longer OCI. Thanks for the input.

A nice long Saturday drive is all you need. Put 40 miles or so on and you'll have burned off all the water and other junk in the oil.

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Mr Sinister,

 

I'd watch for fuel dilution, particularly in cold weather. That would be my only concern.

 

The Castrol 0w-30 is the exception that proves the rule. Generally speaking, the heavier the base stock, the more thermally and oxidatively stable the oil will be at high temperatures. If you live in a hot climate I'd definitely recommend a 10w-30 synthetic over a 0w-30 or even a 5w-30. Is this nit picking to some degree? Sure.

 

TS

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Just had timing belt job and water pump done at local shop. While it was there they did an oil change with "Lubro MOLY 100% Synthetic 5W-40 Motor Oil" This brand can be hard to find... anything think there is a problem mixing brands for a top off between oil changes?

 

I don't think there would be ANY issue at all as long as I get a 5W-40 synthetic.

 

thanks

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went online.. had them order a jug of this oil. thanks

I've heard the OCI can be increased with this type of oil.

Anyone have suggestions for new OCI?

 

Always done my own changes.

I was doing 3-4k between changes with 5W30 Castrol GTX DINO since day one and 4 miles. Now 117,000 miles.

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Lubromoly 5w-40 is a pretty good oil. It meets acea A3/A4 (among other longlife certs) which is good, and means that the oil can safely run extended drain intervals while staying in grade and not thinning out. I would have no problems mixing it with other oil brands or oil weights. Without getting super technical, I would probably run the oil for about 5,000mi-6,000mi, nothing more than 6k without seeing a used oil analysis to see how it holds up in your car.
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The only way to know for sure is a send a oil sample to Blackstone Labs. That's what a sane person would do. Ask for the TBN, that will tell you how much longer the oil is safe to use.

 

To make that easier, I use a Fumoto drain valve on both my cars and GF's car.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Lubromoly 5w-40 is a pretty good oil. It meets acea A3/A4 (among other longlife certs) which is good, and means that the oil can safely run extended drain intervals while staying in grade and not thinning out. I would have no problems mixing it with other oil brands or oil weights. Without getting super technical, I would probably run the oil for about 5,000mi-6,000mi, nothing more than 6k without seeing a used oil analysis to see how it holds up in your car.

 

Lubro moly is good oil, but in reality there are good oils that cost less. I keep waiting for LM oils to go on sale at my NAPA, but have not seen it yet. Only problem with mixing oils is the addpacks might not mesh for best antiwear. if your talking half a quart in an OCI, not an issue. 5-6K should be reasonable, see below.

 

The only way to know for sure is a send a oil sample to Blackstone Labs. That's what a sane person would do. Ask for the TBN, that will tell you how much longer the oil is safe to use.

 

You local NAPA sells a test kit, or can order it. The part number is 4077. It's half the cost of blackstone and they give you TBN.

All I need now is a hill holder and a center passing light...
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WOW,

 

GREAT INFO!

 

Napa has a test kit so I can do a UOA at home? NICE!

 

I already use fumoto valve from day one!

easy peasy

 

Hmm.. 5-6k I have no problem with that. And like the Subaru specific shop said to me when they changed my oil with the Lubro Moly stuff, if I was doing 3k intervals with DINO I would be paying the same amount at 6k with synthetic Moly. So that makes sense. Will have better oil.

 

Yes, probably could find as good for less but it's hard to find. Sounds like Royal Purple is stocked at NAPA and is made in the USA. Maybe that's another option. You all recommend same grade 5W-40 for all these brands?

 

If the "good stuff" should be changed 5-6k intervals then I was kind of pushing it with the DINO on the times when I would extend out to 4,500 - 5,500. OOPS!

 

I almost always changed between 3-4k and I was surprised when the mechanic said the engine wasn't looking too clean. :( The rest of the car is pristine but I guess not all oils are created equal even with frequent changes.

 

Now I'm just hoping the late switch doesn't kill the engine and that the screens for the turbo aren't all clogged up. :(

 

Mechanic said the late switch to synthetic was an old myth.

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Really hard to beat M1 0w-40 @ 22.95 for 5qt jug at walmart. Far as "good" oils in 40 wt look for Porsche A40 and MB 229.5 specs. It takes a good oil to meet those two. Valvoline Synpower 5w-40, M1 0w-40, Castrol 5w-40 and 0w-40 all meet them and more. Castrol 0w-30 also meets lots of tough specs including the A3 spec which is a good one to remember. Turbo Subarus shear oil, and if an oil meets A3 it should be pretty shear resistant.

 

Rotella has quite a following, but since M1 has rolled back pricewise it is less attractive than it has been.

 

The NAPA "kit" is a mailing and sample container, you still need to send it to a lab for analysis. When yo buy the ~$14 kit you pay for the lab work up. They don't give you the exact same parameters, but it gives you important ones like Fe, Al, Si, viscosity, TBN, and more.

 

Personally I would run a 5500 mile OCI and ample to go from there. For some reason 5500 miles seems to be a safe run level with quality oils. That's if you want to push things. I just dump really good oil every 4k...

All I need now is a hill holder and a center passing light...
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Castrol/ Penzoil/ Mobil1 Full Synthetic with a quality oil filter every 5,000 Miles

 

Fail - Mobile 1 w/a 5,000 mile OCI is bad advise.

 

I run Rotella T6 w/ 3,000 mile OCI's and my Blackstone lab reports have always looked great. Subaru turbo vehicles are tough on oil. It is extremely important that the oil is changed often, along with proper oil levels, at all times.

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