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First prototype of 2-gauge cubby pod-with closing door


CasopoliS

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Hahaah... back to reality.

 

Question? I read earlier that this cubby was made to fit the 05' legacy. Is there anyway that this will fit the 06"?????

 

I am praying that it will... Im so pumped.

 

OCDetails informed me that the 06 cubby is identical. If I found a local 06 I could test this out.

 

 

That is a NO to the ferrari unless you can get me a 3-D file of it....

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Is it possible to do 3(three) 45mm gauges, maybe not straight across but in a V on inverted V shape.

 

No way possible with the cubby door. Yes, it will be possible for the door-delete model which will be designed down the road. No V pattern needed there. I want to dedicate time to the door-delete model and add gauge shades, recess the gauges slightly, angle them differently, etc.

I want to get this first design done and the first batch sold so I can dedicate my efforts to the larger panel down the road.

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Do you plan on the door delete model looking something like this?

 

I'd like to redo mine, but don't have the time. However, if someone made something that I could use....;)

gaugesclose.JPG.760bf18fb75628d205835dae56d47594.JPG

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Do you plan on the door delete model looking something like this?

 

I'd like to redo mine, but don't have the time. However, if someone made something that I could use....;)

 

It will look better than that. My piece will conform to the cubby better, at least that is the plan. I might have sun guards above each gauge that arch out like the Defi gauge holders.

 

Though that piece is nice for a DYI.

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^ if so you have to make sure to make a lower "lip" similar to what's on the AVO DIN kit. That lip acts to block the sunlight so the display doesn't wash out. the cubby door does the same thing.

 

Yes it will have this.

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Second Prototype printing now.

 

And please do not ask me to hand over my CAD files that I have spent hours working on, with calipers in one hand and cubby in the other. These are my ideas and designs and are not to be replicated (and especially sold). If you want to fabricate your own, then by all means design it yourself and fabricate it.

 

Thank you. Be on the lookout for the GB. I cannot wait to start a new clean thread, this one is long!

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very cool. I still think I am going to like the single with the cubby the best. U actually use that cubby every day so it will be nice to still have a spot

 

I think your avatar likes me. She thinks my cubby is sexy.

 

Once I get more material in, I will print and test fit the cubby-in-cubby design.

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New design built. The angled portion has a different texture due to the angle but it is acceptable to me. This can be sanded smoother, or even polished to a shine if you want. Of course it could be covered with vinyl as well.

 

I am keeping mine flat black because it blends so well with the cubby interior.

 

http://img50.imageshack.us/img50/9560/dscf79060zz.jpg

 

http://img50.imageshack.us/img50/3378/dscf79079wc.jpg

 

http://img50.imageshack.us/img50/8462/dscf79088ay.jpg

 

 

 

TEST FITTING WILL BE TONIGHT.

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So do you have to pull the cubby (and vents, and computer) out to install this piece or do you just snap it in without removing anything? I'm sure you plan to provide some type of walk-through but I'm curious.
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So do you have to pull the cubby (and vents, and computer) out to install this piece or do you just snap it in without removing anything? I'm sure you plan to provide some type of walk-through but I'm curious.

 

Of course there will be instructions.

 

But....

1 - take out upper console (yank hard - use screwdriver CARFULY if necessary)

2 - Undo electrical connector at top of cubby and under the cubby

3 - Remove cubby and door assembly (3 screws I think)

3 - Remove lower portion of cubby (cubby floor) from the upper portion by unscrewing the back and unsnaping the front

4 - snap my gauge pod in place of the lower portion of the cubby.

5 - put the cubby back onto the upper console

5 - reverse steps to put upper console back in

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If I were to print this with a different orientation it would come out better. It would take much longer to print, and take MUCH more support material. Support material holds the part together as it is printing it.
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Attached are close-up photos showing texture based on direction of the print head. If I printed the gauge-face vertically, the slope should come out smooth, and the radii would be much more defined. We will see. I would waste so much support material that it might not be worth it. In that case I would let it up to the end user to do finishing.

 

EDIT:

After some discussion, I am going to print these in the different orientation so the face looks better. It will look so good that no finishing will really be needed if you do not wish to finish it. Sorry for all the random posts, I want you guys to be really informed about the products I am offering. I want you to know what you are getting a even know a little bit about how it is made.

Dscf7909.jpg.2f9413855893f10e881a6a984ce70739.jpg

Dscf7910.jpg.265cd806179e7cb2b42e4b254f3b9740.jpg

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I think that it is all good either way. I think that a lot of us in this forum have experience with re-finishing products to make them look good. Surely using a high grit sand paper and even a lttle paint would make this piece perfect.

 

In my opinion, let the re-finishing be up to the customer.

 

PS...Thanks for your work. I would love to be among the first to install the angled piece in my car. Cant wait.

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I think that it is all good either way. I think that a lot of us in this forum have experience with re-finishing products to make them look good. Surely using a high grit sand paper and even a lttle paint would make this piece perfect.

 

In my opinion, let the re-finishing be up to the customer.

 

PS...Thanks for your work. I would love to be among the first to install the angled piece in my car. Cant wait.

 

Thanks for the compliments. I will still print the pods in the right orientation to give the best delivered look. Costs associated with this are worth it to me. Finishing is still an option for the end user. You can actually buff the plastic to shine, but in my opinion this would not match the interior.

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There are some quick and easy molding processes out there where you could spend under $1000 and get about 100 molded parts. Just to throw that out there. That way you don't have to buy an official mold ($3000 and 2 months wait time).

 

But I love it, especially seeing someone use their skills to make this stuff (I'm an engineer also, but we don't have an SLA printer). I've got a few patents, and I love it when I can think about something, make it, test it, and then be able to sell it with excitement!!

 

Excellent work! By the way, what's the material. Does it happen to be an ABS printer?

 

 

<------69 POSTS!!

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wow, I must admit... Im impressed, this is cool stuff.
"some say, his arms are made of coiled adamantium fibers. And that he tops his cereal with nuts and bolts. All we know is, he's called the Jose."
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older ABS printer. We are actually looking into the newer printers that print to higher accuracy, MUCH faster, and can print colors in real-time. i.e. you could have it print Jedi's avatar on your gauge pod!!! The CAD department just needs to justify this spending. I do FEA work on plastic bottles for my customers, and with a color 3D printer, I can print the FEA results with stress coloring. So we virtually drop a coke bottle 4 feet and look at stresses and deformation on inpact. We can then print that shape and make it red where there are high stresses. Technology is amazing!

 

I am doing this on the side for the community because of my design capabilities, fabrication capabilities, and enjoyment to do custom work. This means I will need to pay for vendor status. I am currently coming up with products I can offer in 6 months to justify this cost. With the popularity of these pods I think I will be ok.

 

Soon to come:

GB on the door-closing pods

Design and testing of door-delete pods

Design of front license plate deletes

Design and testing of BOV adapters (I want to be able to use a tube-fitting bypass valve like the Forge valves, turbo XS valves, amongst others)

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