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SI-Drive Not Working After Swap


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Hi, i have a 2006 Impreza which i did a 2008 Legacy Spec B 2.0GT swap with the 6 M/T and the R180 rear diff, the legacy that had all the components that i swapped to my car such as (Engine, Trans, All Harnesses, etc…) was equipped with SI-Drive, and i’ve tried swapping it into my Impreza but it has been i nightmare, because the rear wheel knuckle hub that has the kind of ABS reader that my ecu needs in order to the SI-Drive to work is magnetic and that kind of knuckle is basically impossible to fit on my car.

Having said all this i would like to get some recommendations on what to do cause i don’t want my car to be limited just because the Si-Drive isn’t working.

Not to mention that i should be pushing about 14 psi of boost and my car is only loading about 6 psi, but no codes.

If any of you have any previous experience with a case like this i’ll be glad to hear what you got to say.

Thanks

Edited by Jean E.
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You swapped a jdm set up into a usdm car of a different model/family.  If anyone actually knows the answer they would be idiots to share that knowledge for free.  You jumped off a cliff, either enjoy the fall or poo your pants. 

I see a few choices.  Figure it out yourself, pay someone else to figure it out, cut your losses and burn the car.  In the end it might all be "doable", but my gut says the cost far exceeds the value of the car.  Generally, if you don't have all the answers prior to beginning a project or the tools and know how you should not take the leap. 

I would give up on SI drive, its lame anyway (basically just a reduced throttle response from the factory).  Focus on getting the car running and tuned properly.  

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I don't know the answer but I'll throw out a theory for free.

My Si drive equipped cars default to whichever of "I" os "S" was used last when they are started. They will not stay in "S#" through a key off/key on cycle.

Since you are only seeing 6 psi, I'm guessing your car is stuck in "I".

As m sprank noted, all these different modes are is different throttle maps. I would suggest you go into your tune file and copy the "S#" throttle map into the "S" and "I" maps. This will eliminate the Si-drive setup as a potential cause of any issues. 

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Well, what @m sprank said is true, and I'm sorry you didn't want to hear it.

My recommendation is to find a USDM 2006 era IMPREZA WRX and swap that into your IMPREZA.  Taking a JDM LEGACY and trying to put it into an USDM IMPREZA is a bad idea, as you have found out first hand. 

Or buddy, pave the way and let us know what you had to do to make it work so that others may follow in your footsteps. I did some googling and it appears that there are only those that want to know if it's possible, and those that have done it but now have issues.

 

You really should have done some research before doing something that's not been done before.

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4 hours ago, Jean E. said:

@m sprank go fuck yourself if your not going to say anything that can help, just don’t comment 

Good job dude.

You are... 3 posts in to asking for help on a forum that is old, knowledgeable and increasingly tightly knit, and you're swearing (which is almost never done here, if you'd taken the time to have a look) at one of the most senior and well respected members, who happened to give you some real advice you didn't like.

I bet your going to get tons of help with that attitude and demeanor. Welcome to the forum...

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@silverton the thing was i live in the caribbean and the easiest swaps to find out here are those engines, due that they only import from japan and basically i got blinded by the good performance of the engine.

I think i’ll be going to take @Haze advice on the si-drive matter.

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UPDATE: Did a smoke test on the car and had a leak on the blow off valve “Cheap Aftermarket”, so i put the oem one back in and the car is still only hitting 6-7 psi of boost.

I’ll be talking to my tuner to do some checking via opensource to see if we’re able to see why is the car cutting boost.

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7 hours ago, Jean E. said:

@m sprank go fuck yourself if your not going to say anything that can help, just don’t comment 

There isn’t a single person on this forum that’s going to disagree with what he said. You may not have liked what he said but it’s absolutely true. If there’s anyone on this forum that knows what it’s like to do weeks of research and go through the trial error to figure out something that’s never been done before and successfully pull it off, it’s m sprank. With that said, he knows what that type of labor and dedication is worth and as he stated nobody is going to give that information out for free.

with all that out of the way, I’ve never heard of anyone pulling off or even attempting to pull of what you’re trying to do. I’ve personally never understood si drive. Why would anyone want to intentionally detune their car and make it feel lazy and unresponsive, especially a car that’s not even all that powerful to begin with? If it were me, I’d abandon si drive.

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3 hours ago, Jean E. said:

@KZJonny i didn’t mean to be rude, it’s just that when he told me to burn the car that’s not a helpful advice at all

I did not "tell you" to burn the car, I offered it as an option umong others.  I also said to give up on the Si drive and focus on a mechanically sound set up and good tune. 

I am not here to lead you to the promised land.  But I am honest in my posts.

Welcome to the forum.  

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@m sprank i’m sorry for the behavior i had on the past answer i see you were just tryna help and thank you for that and yes i’m basically a 100% sure that i’ll need to give up on the si-drive.

I think my last resource will be what @Haze said about copping the S# map into the “I” and “S” and just have the car as it is without the modes.

Thanks for the replies.

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@blackobxt yeah at the end of the day it’s doesn’t make much sense to go through all the shit that it would take in order to make the si-drive to work.

The only reasonable option that i thought was had the knuckle fabricated and install the reader on that but that is basically going though hell n back for basically not much.

What i’m really concerned about rn is the boost, did all the leakage test that can be done and the car doesn’t have any boost leaks, i guess i’ll be doing more testing with my tuner and i’ll keep y’all up to date.

Edited by Jean E.
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Yes. It can be done. That was the only good thing about Si drive. The ability to load 3 different custom maps and switch on the fly. We gave many customers low boost, high boost and kill mode via Si. You could use it to switch fuels too, but that is a bit sketchy as it is too easy to make a mistake. 

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10 hours ago, m sprank said:

Yes. It can be done. That was the only good thing about Si drive. The ability to load 3 different custom maps and switch on the fly. We gave many customers low boost, high boost and kill mode via Si. You could use it to switch fuels too, but that is a bit sketchy as it is too easy to make a mistake. 

😮

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FWIW, these are the tables you're looking for as they appear in RomRaider. This is the tune that was on my OBXT when I got it and I think these are the stock values but not 100% sure on that. 

20240228_155003.jpg

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  • 1 month later...
Posted (edited)

UPDATE: I fixed the whole problem with a new boost controller and for the si-drive not working i did as someone on the forum told me to do and copied the S# map onto the Sport and Intelligent mode and everything works like a charm now.

Thanks for all the reply’s.

Edited by Jean E.
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