20XXX Posted February 3 Share Posted February 3 Hey guys, Here comes the time of this old girls life that she needs the 6 speed. I have a JDM spec B pallet picked out and am ready to pull the trigger. I’m making this post to hopefully find anyone that has done this swap before and may have some insight into the process as I’ll be doing it myself. I’m not too worried about the mechanical aspect of the swap, more-so the electrical side. I’ve R2’d a few Subaru engines and USDM trans’ before but am completely foreign to JDM. Im aware of the final drive of the JDM and the pallet IS an R180 with correct shafts. Thanks if anyone checks this out, there’s many more uplift plans for the car. Hope to be posting updates on this old girl in the future! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subisubisu Posted February 3 Share Posted February 3 I did something similar - I put mine in an OBXT and removed the lifting spacers in the process to put it at Legacy height, and used some Whiteline parts for more adjustability on the suspension. There wasn't much to hook up, electrically, and the connection from the OBXT 5MT plugged right in. Given all the other "fun" that I had in my project (which was much more than the Spec B 6MT swap), the actual 6MT connection was pretty straightforward. Good luck! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
20XXX Posted March 27 Author Share Posted March 27 (edited) UPDATE: I’ve pulled all LGT components, and installed everything but the 6MT, PTO, and front drives. If you’re here for things to note… - use genuine Subaru flywheel bolts (CORRECT TORQUE AND BLUE LOCTITE) or ARP. Trust me. - EVENLY install and correctly torque rear subframe and suspension, you’ll be pretty sad when you tighten 3 carrier bolts then realize no.4 is off and you’re about to friction weld your subframe into your car. - just remove the turbo, you’ll thank yourself later when you go to install your 6MT. - fuel tank flanges will rust before everything else, clean it up and fix it. - 4 bolts holding shift linkage to your frame have poor nut plates, take care when removing. - pretty common knowledge but leave suspension free until shafts are in. I’ll throw some pictures in here soon. If you’re here for your swap, good luck it’s totally do-able yourself Edited March 29 by 20XXX Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
20XXX Posted March 27 Author Share Posted March 27 On 2/3/2024 at 6:12 PM, subisubisu said: I did something similar - I put mine in an OBXT and removed the lifting spacers in the process to put it at Legacy height, and used some Whiteline parts for more adjustability on the suspension. There wasn't much to hook up, electrically, and the connection from the OBXT 5MT plugged right in. Given all the other "fun" that I had in my project (which was much more than the Spec B 6MT swap), the actual 6MT connection was pretty straightforward. Good luck! Appreciate the reply, the swap is coming along decently well. Correcting rust and generally updating bushings, hardware, etc has been the time killer. I’m sure you felt the pain as well 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted March 28 Share Posted March 28 FWIW, I bolt the turbo on the up pipe, much easier to line things up. Use the same OEM bolt that hold the uppipe support bracket to engine. The dealers parts guys will have them. While it is out, replace the oil return hose and check the intake tube for a worn out flex joint. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
20XXX Posted March 29 Author Share Posted March 29 23 hours ago, Max Capacity said: FWIW, I bolt the turbo on the up pipe, much easier to line things up. Use the same OEM bolt that hold the uppipe support bracket to engine. The dealers parts guys will have them. While it is out, replace the oil return hose and check the intake tube for a worn out flex joint. I didn’t pull the engine and the exhaust housing for the turbo didn’t give enough clearance to remove the old 5MT, had to loosen it to the point where it was slightly adjustable. Glad I did, was able to see there were minor leaks in the locations you mentioned. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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