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Whitexc's 2009 LGT Re(Build)


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Wait a minute, its been bothering me for a while now. Do the rear wheels have a smaller track than the front? Looks that way on my car..... I think I will look into some spacers as well to get the rear wheels pushed out some more. If so, anyone know the difference between front and rear?

 

Oh, come on now, you should know that info will be in the front of the service manual,

 

http://people.csail.mit.edu/ilh/vacation/

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

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Wait a minute, its been bothering me for a while now. Do the rear wheels have a smaller track than the front? Looks that way on my car..... I think I will look into some spacers as well to get the rear wheels pushed out some more. If so, anyone know the difference between front and rear?
The rear track width is 10 mm shorter. 1495 mm front and 1485 mm rear.
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I haven't measured the track front vs rear but visually yes, the front wheels sit outboard further. There is a fine line with spacers and factory studs so do this with caution and at your own risk.

 

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wagon, Tread

Front mm (in) 1,495 (58.9)

Rear mm (in) 1,490 (58.7)

 

That's from page 15.

Edited by Max Capacity

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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:hide:

 

How much spacing can we get before rubbing? I was looking at 10 and 15mm spacers.

 

Can the studs be removed and installed without removing the entire wheel hub? Probably need to pull the rotor and caliper off so you can knock out the old studs.

Edited by Tehnation
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305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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:hide:

 

How much spacing can we get before rubbing? I was looking at 10 and 15mm spacers.

 

Can the studs be removed and installed without removing the entire wheel hub? Probably need to pull the rotor and caliper off so you can knock out the old studs.

I have 1inch h&r spacers all around, stock wheel and tire size , no rubbing whatsoever

 

They are really tucked from the factory, if I didn't already have the spacers I would have gone wider in rear or less up front , the front track being wider really brothers me

 

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Received the correct AOS can from Crawford just in time to be quarantined for what seems like the 5th time. My vaccinated fiance tested positive on Wednesday. This is her second bout, 1st being October of 20. Awaiting test results for myself and 2 daughters. My oldest turns 15 today and we had to cancel her plans....housebound for a while. This after I just got back to work after hernia surgery.

 

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Mine are 5mm and I think it changed the look enough. Post some pics when you make the swap.

 

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I think my car would look better with the rear pushed out a little more than the front. My front wheels stick out a lot, where its very noticeable. I think lowering the car along with the whiteline tie rods/ball joints actually pushed out my front track. Cause my front tires look like it comes out way more than 5mm. No wonder I could never do a basic alignment with string.

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Hmm my front wheels are about where urs are so lowering etc. didn't change the track, they really just stick out that much.

 

But yea, that looks much better. Can't wait to get em on!

 

HAPPY NEW YEARS!!! DRINKY DRINKY!

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Ok, back with good news. The car is together, running and on the road. Have to take care of the front boots with new clamps for now and get the bottom tray back on. Update with some pics asap.

 

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Edited by whitexc
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Went out this morning and cut the loose clamps off the axles and installed worm clamps and got the undertray back on. I could move the cv boots a fair amount with the old clamps so I think these will be good for the short term. 6583ef5007c32a9d35a40131dd0309e4.jpg

 

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Cple engine bay pics......nothing too exciting. Notice the AOS and we used some thermal wrap around the turbo area. Bulletproofed TMIC....hopefully it is up to the task of the custom JMP VF46. Air pump delete so some real estate opened up on that front corner and she lost a bunch of tubing, etc. 45f6730acc39dfac6c58f1f7f16ffb46.jpg5ce54b36cd0331ba49033139d3cb3383.jpg

 

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Edited by whitexc
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Underneath before the tray....new oil pan, cooler, cooler lines and the K&N filter. Yes I am crazy and have a mega strong rare earth magnet on the drain plug. I will invest in a one of the ez oil change jobbers after break in. Shabby shot of the Group N mounts. d957aadd240e67547d62aafd95192f0f.jpgb143470ba36fa9d71bd5f778932a45ee.jpg

 

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That's about it for now. I set up the AP with the parameters that Mike @ TA wants for logging and took it for a ride. I did do a TCU reset this morning and the car drives well overall. I am being very easy on it so far but it seems to spool up nice and shifts smooth. I can definitely tell the Group N mounts and dog bone are stiffer. She has some vibes at idle and in gear but they smooth right out with some throttle input. Remember, this is my winter beater and I hope the build stayed true to shooting for longevity and drive ability.

 

Thanks to all that have helped whether it be advice or other.....it's greatly appreciated.

 

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They are right around $300 give or take depending on whos you buy. I ordered it with my shortblock and some other parts so I got a discount. After looking at the intake and reading a bunch I was sold on installing one.

 

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  • 5 weeks later...

Looking for ideas...I have about 850 miles on the new engine, turbo, stage 2 ish upgrades. Been just driving the car, like a grandpa in fact. The car runs fine driving like a grandpa. The car appears to run fine at WOT, the very few times I have stepped on it to see what boost would end up at (16.xx so far) and only for a few seconds. The problem is in between. If I take off from a light and get into the 3k rpm range at part throttle it falls on its face, sputters and says NO. Back off the throttle, allow the slushomatic to shift and it does its thing and continues on in normal fashion. It doesn't like part to moderate throttle from 2900 to 3xxx rpms. There is something happening. It also seems to be hunting at idle at times which would signal a vacuum leak right?

 

Looking at the AP and some logs, going back and forth with Mike @ TA, thinking I may have a weak coil, O2 sensor on its way out (front passenger side is new, other is old-er), bad plug (changed them today as he said stock heat range is fine and we all love to change plugs!). Zip tied vacuume lines, checked lots of connections (not yet with any spray....that's next). Probably need to smoke test too. I don't have a set up so may let the shop handle that.

 

Ideas? I know y'all have some. Thanks in advance.

 

 

 

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Edited by whitexc
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